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Need replacement for my K4.6

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T

TurboDZL

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It appears my new (only eight tanks ran through it) motor is on it's way back to HPI for a bad bearing. Since there's no telling how long I'll be without a new K4.6, assuming they cover it, I'm seriousy considering getting something that will be a direct drop in while my HPI motor is getting looked at.

Is this a direct drop in motor in the sense that I can use the clutch, flywheel, header and pipe, etc, from my K4.6 that won't be shipped with the motor back to HPI?

I'm looking to keep everything I need under $180 if at all possible if there are any other recommendations please let me know.
 
Thats the engine I was going to suggest, then noticed you already linked to it. Yes the Wasp .28 is a direct drop in and just as powerful if not even more so than the K4.6. I absolutely love my Wasp, I highly reccomend it.
 
I'm assuming it's OK to use the same gearing and motor bracket, the one that mounts to the bottom of the motor?
 
I got the WASP .28...lets hope this last longer than 8 tanks. I did break-in with the K4.6 from the recommendations on this board and others; Idle first tank, heat cycling, slow figure 8s, etc, I'm wondering if that's taking it to easy since I never saw temps above 221 and should try another approach.

The Break-in instructions that came with the WASP appear to be a pretty quick process so who knows....we'll see how it goes.
 
Just ran the first tank through at idle....what a bugger to keep running.

One thing I don't like already is the shorty pull start. With the body post all the way down you still can't reach the pull start so the lid will need to come off every start up.
 
And the bad luck continues......

I take it out today for the 2nd breakin tank, heat up the head, prime the motor, heat the plug, give it a pull and now the damn pullstart won't retract!! The very first pull! The way this Nitro thing is starting out I'll be sure to stay away from Vegas for a while.

WHAT NEXT?
 
mine did the same thing when i got it. your gonna have to take the motor out. take the screws out of the pullstaret assembly make sure the knot of the cord is flush. that is what is binding and keeping it from retracting.

heres what you do. put some lock-tie on the screws and put them back in not tight cause it may bind again. just flush to wear the pull start retreacts. the lock0-tie will keep the screws from falling out when you begin bashing.

i got a 3rd pull start in the mail today for back up. fixed 2 and a brand new 3rd. hopefully i wonr need the 3rd and maybe sell it for the $25 shipped i paid for it.
 
Candyman said:
Well, you could make plans to bash with geardigger this weekend......
Click to expand...

LOL...we're in the same boat I know, I've read all about it. We can stand around and throw them through the air and make rrrmm, rrrmm sounds I guess.

Well, to begin with, I did loc-tite the backplate and pull start before I even crank it so everything was buttoned down nice and solid. I just pulled the motor out and removed the pull starter and I'm not quit sure where the failure is, everything appears to be in place and spring intact and the knot is flush....bad one-way? :hammer:
 
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Candyman said:
Well, you could make plans to bash with geardigger this weekend......
Click to expand...


I in no way find this funny whatsoever..... LOL

I love to hate my savage. Sell, dont sell, sell, dont sell. I just can't figure this crap out!!!!
 
Can it get any worse?

The broken pull start from the other day (spring broke in four places) was repaired by my LHS which lasted all three tanks yesterday. Three miserable tanks! For the life of me I could not keep this thing idling long enough to put the lid on not matter what I did to the needles or idle adjustment. When I did get it moving I couldn't get the temps up past 190, when I tried to lean it out some it would sputter on the top end and temps no higher than 190.

Today I couldn't keep it started when I removed the glo-starter and I tried two new OS P6(cold) and P7(med) plugs. My head temp was 162 after heating it with my heat gun so it's not like the motor is cold. As soon as I would remove the glo-starter it would die. Then the icing on the cake, the POS pull starter broke again. All my Revo buddys are getting a kick out of though, they've never seen such a long string of bad luck but, quite frankly, this is getting on my last nerve. I literally pick it up and almost tossed it into traffic. I've used 3/4 of a gallon betwen two motors and the wheels have yet to leave the ground under it's own power. I can't believe this TOY is getting the best of me. Top that one Geardigger. :cheers:
 
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Well after waiting for 2 weeks to get a backplate and another half week of playing with my needles, replacing the fuel line for the 3rd time and finally getting some good advice as to proper needle settings my roto-start tool stripped its gears because my engine hrydro-locked on me before I could catch it! So now I have nothing to start mine with either!!! Oh and the fuel line I bought was too damn big because the bag was mislabed. :cheers:

One thing that strikes me funny is it seems most all people who own the pos have nothing but problems with em. People buying the revo's and T-Maxxx are out having a ball! Hrmmm, time to switch?


I say we both get a couple of cases and suck em down while we take turns shooting these damn things with a 12 gauge.
 
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That sucks man, I had no problems what so ever with my Wasp .28. It was a little annoying to keep it idleing in the first few tanks but after that I have had no problems. You said when you lean it it sputters on the top end and doesn't get above 190 degrees, this is because your engine is still to rich. Try leaning the low end and high end out a bit to see if you can get the temps up to 230 or so, thats where you will get the real performance. If you can't keep it idleing, are you sure the idle is high enough? What are the temps when idleing? Your LSN could be to rich causeing it to load up and die, or it could be too lean causeing it to overheat and die.

Talk to Rolex, I'm sure he could get your engine running.
 
Patience fellows! These little engines can be a real pain. Seems like the learning curve is pretty steep. Ya either know nothing to very little, or you are helping a new guy tune theirs. Don't be ashamed to get some local help. We have all been there.

The Savage is a great truck. After getting it tuned you won't be tuning much after that. :cheers:
 
Once you get this engine running you will walk all over the T-Maxxs! Stick with it...
 
AC48 said:
You said when you lean it it sputters on the top end and doesn't get above 190 degrees, this is because your engine is still to rich. Try leaning the low end and high end out a bit to see if you can get the temps up to 230 or so, thats where you will get the real performance. If you can't keep it idleing, are you sure the idle is high enough?
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The more I leaned it the more pronounced it got. I eventually had the HSN 3 turns out from the recommended 4.5 starting point and 4.5 turns out on the LSN from the recommended 5.5 starting point....thats a huge needle change with little to no temp increase. All these changes were made over the three tanks I did manage to get through it and not all at once.

As far as the idle goes, the more I would increase it the more the throttle slide would bind/stick.

Geardigger....my shotgun is already loaded, you name the place! :wasted:
 
If engine is not getting over 190 something is wrong, what happens if you go to 2 turns out? It seems very odd to me that the temps won't go up. Does the engine get a full chance to get up to temp?

I had the sticking slide problem too, close the slide and put a drop of ARO and that should help.

At idle if you pinch the line right in front of the carb how long does it take to die?

If you are going to shoot the engine just send it to me...
 
AC48 said:
I had the sticking slide problem too, close the slide and put a drop of ARO and that should help.

At idle if you pinch the line right in front of the carb how long does it take to die?
Click to expand...

You would think a little 3-in-1 would have worked but it didn't...been there, done that.

The funny thing is, when my brother bought his Revo he didn't even bother to break it in and has yet to touch any needles, aside from the idle. From the very first tank he has ran it WFO and is on his second gallon already. Was that smart, probably not....but this is whats so frustrating, I go by the book, research for 4 months and it still treats me like this.
 
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