My first T-Maxx....is it normal to break parts every time out?

[iqraceworks]

I've got a T-maxx with a .21 Conversion. I'm running a Rossi motor in it. It's got a rear solid spool in the rear diff, and has the stock front diff, and it has the FOC done to the tranny. All of the driveshafts going to the diffs and to the wheels are new telescoping stock units.

The truck runs awesome, but every time I go out....something else breaks.

1st time out: Stripped all of the teeth off of the spur gear.

2nd time out: Cracked one of the rear bulkheads that hold the rear diff in place.

3rd time out: Stripped the spur gear again.

4th time out: Ran about half a tank through it....and how I'm only getting power to the front tires. Something in the rear diff let loose (but the spur gear looks brand new:celb2: ).

What is it with these things? Why didn't they build them stronger? I'm not even running the thing hard, just up and down the street....with a few trips through the grass.

 

[Badsneaker]

Wow thats weird I had a Tmaxx last summer and never broke anything. I was jumping it and generally giving it a good beating. Never stripped a gear or had to replace anything. Everyhing was stock cept for a few mild upgrades in the suspension, drivetrain was factory.

 

[FastEddy]

That sounds about right.
The T-Maxx is known to the hobby shops and the "Money Maker". They dont want to build them stronger, its their bread and butter.

You can start beefing it up as you brake things. There are thousands of aftermarket parts to choose from that are better built. The Maxx was lucky to survive with the old .15 and luckier to be able to make a tank with the 3.5. Now you have a .21. Its just not designed to handle the power stock.

You can start upgrading now and have 400-600.00 more into it by the time your done or you can cut your losses and get a Revo.

I'm sure you will find people that disagree with this but I have been there more then one time and I speak from experience.

 

[iqraceworks]

What are the differences between the REVO and the T-Maxx? Is the drivetrain just that much stronger? I guess since the rear diff is trashed....I need to look into some metal gears? I guess I need to take it apart first and see what's wrong with it. Maybe something just came loose? :nono:

 

[Badsneaker]

igrace it must be the big engine like Fasteddy says. My Tmaxx had the stocker engine in it. The stock engine seemd plenty powerful enough for me proabably gearing. It wasn't real fast until though you got it into 2nd gear. I guess the drivetrain was not designed for the power you have.

 

[.21Rc10GT]

I'm guessing that you do not have the 3.3 T-maxx. They have the stronger/updated driveline and a few beefier plastic parts.

 

[iqraceworks]

Well I took the rear diff apart tonight. It looks like that 4 screws that hold the ring gear to the rear spool couldn't handle the power from the Rossi and they all sheared off. So now I have to see if I can get the remainder of the screws out of the rear spool....if not I will have to but a new one, and new screws.

I started doing a little research on the .21 motor that I've got in the truck......it looks like it's putting out a little over 2.5hp.......I guess that's just to much for the stock parts. Hopefully after I get the rear diff fixed, it will last for a little while.

It's got metal gears in the rear diff.......are the stock ones metal?

 

[SMaxxin]

Yes the gears inside the diff will be metal. You might want to look into the aluminum diff housing to help with all of that power. At least the spur is still good LOL

BTW which glow plug did you end up using?

 

[iqraceworks]

Well, the last one I bought was an OS A5 plug....and so far it's been ok. I only got half a talk through it before the rear diff shelled.....so I can't really say if that plug will last long or not.

 

[Plaidfish]

cut your losses with the maxx now before you sell the farm to keep it working...I got mine to stop destroying gears by replacing them with 1/8 scale diffs.....but you are looking at replacing alot of parts to make that happen......

 

[olds97_lss]

I found that a decent 18 in the maxx makes it fun. Anything more makes it a headache. It's a headache as it is, but with a 21, it's pretty much unbearable.

I'm with FastEddy on this one. If you try to make it able to deal with the power of the big block, you will have 3 times what the truck is worth and your still stuck with a maxx.

Save your money and enjoy a small block. The maxx will be much more fun if you do.

 

[.21Rc10GT]

cut your losses with the maxx now before you sell the farm to keep it working...I got mine to stop destroying gears by replacing them with 1/8 scale diffs.....but you are looking at replacing alot of parts to make that happen......

Thats exactly what I did (The 1/8th scale diffs) and it was not cheap. Although the maxx is a fun truck, it just cannot handle big block power without heavy mods.

 

[gangsta]

its funny how ur tmaxx broke every time u drove it did u drive it of 50 meter cliffs every time or somethink lol I have crashed my tmaxx into poles at like 40 kmhs and it dident brake the only thing iv broke on my tmaxx is the shell:burp:

 

[3.3maxx]

i have a 3.3 maxx and i have the same problem. everytime i go out its the same thing. about 1 tank and something breaks, now i have been through 5 motor mounts not including the stocker, about 7 spur gears, suspension pins, 2 shocks, and intake as well as the stock driveshafts and fuel tank. it also has a traxxas pipe, with new cvd's, and hitech 645mg steering servo.
its a fun toy but breaks everytime i take it out and usually with in 1/2 of my fun. then again i also jump it about 10ft in the air over 15ft gaps..LOL
i kind of expect things to break when playing that hard.
my biggest problem is motor mounts. i really need a cage that will prevent it from landing on the motor head on a large jump. that would solve my problems. but i am weary of ordering internet parts and my local hobby shop can't get the cage i want. go figure

 

[Doberman]

i am weary of ordering internet parts......

Dude, just find a reputable site and you should be good to go.
What cage are you looking for?

 

[3.3maxx]

i would like the new era 3 point. seems strong enough to handle what i throw out and i would still be able to put a body on with out hacking it up too much.

 

[TacRacing]

Tmaxx.... They are tougher than you think.. the problem is (for me) that when I had mine.. I would drive it harder and faster.. until..... SNAP!!

 

[.21Rc10GT]

i would like the new era 3 point. seems strong enough to handle what i throw out and i would still be able to put a body on with out hacking it up too much.

I had that on my maxx a while back and loved it! If memory serves me correctly, I believe Olds had one too.

 

[3.3maxx]

Tmaxx.... They are tougher than you think.. the problem is (for me) that when I had mine.. I would drive it harder and faster.. until..... SNAP!!

They are pretty tough but like you put it, I do drive it hard. With the 3.3 being as powerful as it is, it seems like the truck could have been built a little stronger to handle this motor.
Now this IS my first nitro. Before this all I had was a built stampede. after shocks, ESC, new motor, hitech servo, and new remote and reciever pack it was great and would never break.
My friend that I run with has an Emaxx and he always out lasts me. But he also can't catch the air that i can nor clear the gaps that I do.
I do enjoy playing with it, but now its down again with stripped rear shocks.
I am looking in to doing a custom shock build.
I really want to run the proline by-pass shocks with a set of Integy piggy backs with a dual coil kit on them. I think this would be ideal and have all the dampenimg I need to land the BIG jumps..... I have never seen anyone do this before, and i think its worth a try.

 

[Plaidfish]

the integy shocks look and feel really silky smooth until you actually use them....they will work but you have to pretty much clean and refill them after every 5-6 tanks of running IF you don't bend a shaft...get some OFNA rear buggy shocks and run oil above 35 weight if you are jumping BIG jumps...like 6+ ft of air....run lighter oil to make it handle better.....most people say use only 4 shocks when they use these, but if you are running CVDs the a-arms (especially RPM) can flex too much and you throw a shaft....I run all 8 rear 1/8 scale buggy shocks and it kicks ass.