Build Thread My first build - 1/24 rock crawler

[Tallbump]

I've run into that problem a few times myself.

My problem was that the hex driver I have is too fat to fit inside the hole where the screw goes on, the screws holding the wheels together are too close together

 

[Doom!]

@Tallbump These are really handy for 1/24 -1/18 scale. They have a thin wall hex driver that fits where others don't.
Injora 7 peice hex and driver set

 

[Willy0942]

@Tallbump These are really handy for 1/24 -1/18 scale. They have a thin wall hex driver that fits where others don't.
Injora 7 peice hex and driver set

Agreed they work well on the tight stuff, I find this in a lot of 3d printed wheels.

 

[Tallbump]

@Tallbump These are really handy for 1/24 -1/18 scale. They have a thin wall hex driver that fits where others don't.
Injora 7 peice hex and driver set

I wish I would have seen those before I bought my tool set. I have about that in what I have now. I'd hate to by more and these are basically duplicates.

However having a hex driver that could fit in tighter places would be nice.......

I threw them in my Amazon cart, I'll keep them in mind.

Thanks!

 

[WickedFog]

Looking good man. That thing looks like it doesn't have much room for things. Maybe down the road, look at Furitek's Unity motors that have the ESC inside the motor can. That gets rid of having to find a spot for the ESC. And as mentioned, decasing the Rx saves a LOT of wasted space.

To gain even more room, remove the JR connectors from your servo and motor wires and solder them directly to the Rx.

Another trick is instead of using one 2s battery - go to drone retailers like RaceDayQuads, or GetFPV and look at 1s tiny whoop batteries. This will allow you to split your battery into two locations. Then you just solder up a custom harness to turn them into a 2s LiPo.

 

[Tallbump]

Looking good man. That thing looks like it doesn't have much room for things. Maybe down the road, look at Furitek's Unity motors that have the ESC inside the motor can. That gets rid of having to find a spot for the ESC. And as mentioned, decasing the Rx saves a LOT of wasted space.

To gain even more room, remove the JR connectors from your servo and motor wires and solder them directly to the Rx.

Another trick is instead of using one 2s battery - go to drone retailers like RaceDayQuads, or GetFPV and look at 1s tiny whoop batteries. This will allow you to split your battery into two locations. Then you just solder up a custom harness to turn them into a 2s LiPo.
View attachment 251379

That's an awesome idea. I'll look into it.

I definitely didn't do myself any favors by picking a chassis with so little room for my first build. But I have bene enjoying the challenge.

I am happy with the electronics, for now.

Next is suspension. I have a few different ideas. Going to play with length and placement as there are so many mounting locations. I have never really played with it. I have 43MM, double barreled shocks on both my other builds. I am running them both upside down and they are both on stock chassis.

 

[Tallbump]

Made more progress yesterday.
Added the Ramp Crab servo and Injora 43mm double barrel shocks
Added about 10 grams
Next will be Meus isokinetic axels with rear wheel steer
After that new wheels and tires.(These are loners)
Then I'm going to play around with trying to come up with some ultra high clearance rear links.
Right now that's the biggest challenge.
I went back and forth on running springs or no springs on the shocks. Both of my other rigs have no springs. Same shocks. But one of the reasons I went with this chassis was because of all of the different shock placement options. As you see, I only added about an eighth of an inch of height which I didn't mind cuz I wanted to clearance anyways.

Height with stock shocks

Current height with the Injoras

As it sits now, I am at 345 grams.
As close as I can tell, it's about 53% front and 47% rear.
I will be addressing that when I do the axels and wheel and tires.

 

[Burnzone]

Looking good! I think you're going to like the Meus axles and they add a fair bit of weight. I was amazed at how heavy they were when I put them in my comp build. I've kinda been watching this off and on and I like what I'm seeing something about the pics 4 & 5 in post 27 reminds me of the warthog chassis which I'd like to tackle some winter when I'm bored

 

[Tallbump]

Looking good! I think you're going to like the Meus axles and they add a fair bit of weight. I was amazed at how heavy they were when I put them in my comp build. I've kinda been watching this off and on and I like what I'm seeing something about the pics 4 & 5 in post 27 reminds me of the warthog chassis which I'd like to tackle some winter when I'm bored

Thanks!
I almost went with the Warthog chassis, but, for some reason I kept going back to this one.

I do have the Meus axles on my JLU and I love them. I am going with the rear wheel steer with and that will be my first time.

 

[Tallbump]

Finally got the Meus isokinetic 4wheel steer axles and ramp Crab servos on​

First time ever using 4 wheel steer

This thing is awesome

Just need a few more things (wheels and tires for sure) and possibly different rear links and diff sliders) and it's "done"

Added 92 grams total. I do need to get more weight up front, right now it's like 52% to 48%. I plan on addressing it when I do the wheels and tires

It looks almost as wide as it is long but it's not

Before

After

I use this dial to control the rear wheel steer

I had to remove the metal bar at the rear of the chassis as the servo was hitting it and I wasn't getting any droop. I replaced it with a clear rubber band (a hair band) a little further up and it seem sot be working great

 

[Tallbump]

I was bored yesterday and played around more.

Weight wise, I was at like 51% front and 49% rear.

So I moved the ESC from the rear to up front above the axel and servo.

I am not 100% thrilled about how high it is or how it looks.

Honestly, it's really not THAT high as this build overall sits pretty low. And the weight of the ESC is nothing compared o the weight up how much is down low.

I played around a bit on some climbing. NO issues going up hill. Going down, the front lifted some, but it wasn't a problem.

But, I was able to get weight to 55% front and 45% rear

Ultimately, I probably end up doing boat sliders, putting the ESC on one side and the battery on the other, and doing a body.

I am ordering a few more parts today, we'll see how it is after those.

 

[Tallbump]

Progress

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F18ZRQCR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CM249XYG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

What an experience. First time ever doing wheel and tires. What a paint to assemble wheels and mount tires.
I did manage to pay attention to making sure the tread was facing forward. But I accidentally ended up with 2 wheels backwards.
During some test runs, some of the tires came off
Initially I had the regular hubs on, but the tires were rubbing, so I had to take them apart and put the extended hexes on (they were included)
Tires still rubbing on the shocks and links, so I had to move the shocks some and reduce the steering a bit through the controller.

She's heavy, at 515, and I'm still thinking about adding a body
But it's about 55% front, and for being a 4 wheel steer, isn't bad.

I am thinking about doing some lighter wheel rings for the rear wheels to shift a little more weight

 

[Doom!]

Lookin' good!

Beadlock wheels get easier with time, just go slow and steady. Getting the tire bead secure is the hardest part. Just don't overtighten anything, and make sure everything is lined up and your good.

 

[Tallbump]

More progress on Dirty Dom​

Added double bend, aluminum rear links.
Very happy.

These are what I used

https://www.etsy.com/listing/4321915824/scx24-st-all-the-clearance-links?ref=shop_home_feat_1&sh_rv=1&bes=1&sts=1&logging_key=a4990c21333b97fd6bac0f8131976b94d79184c9%3A4321915824&fbclid=IwY2xjawN-wBhleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETFXdlB0b0ZWTmV4UXJhbkZSc3J0YwZhcHBfaWQQMjIyMDM5MTc4ODIwMDg5MgABHrtun7B94Pzx-q0dnoDLXpjlCbSypkHk4P7WAX62HMEwDq4aIV-gnAeod1fO_aem_AnxYrXyvBioC4wXXHi5LuQ

Flex test

Decent clearance

 

[Willy0942]

More progress on Dirty Dom​

Added double bend, aluminum rear links.
Very happy.

View attachment 255462


These are what I used

https://www.etsy.com/listing/4321915824/scx24-st-all-the-clearance-links?ref=shop_home_feat_1&sh_rv=1&bes=1&sts=1&logging_key=a4990c21333b97fd6bac0f8131976b94d79184c9%3A4321915824&fbclid=IwY2xjawN-wBhleHRuA2FlbQIxMABicmlkETFXdlB0b0ZWTmV4UXJhbkZSc3J0YwZhcHBfaWQQMjIyMDM5MTc4ODIwMDg5MgABHrtun7B94Pzx-q0dnoDLXpjlCbSypkHk4P7WAX62HMEwDq4aIV-gnAeod1fO_aem_AnxYrXyvBioC4wXXHi5LuQ


View attachment 255463

Flex test

View attachment 255464

Decent clearance

View attachment 255465

Lookin good, those links are nice they even pivot a little where it connects to slider so they don’t stick out. Going to be a little beast for sure

 

[Tallbump]

Lookin good, those links are nice they even pivot a little where it connects to slider so they don’t stick out. Going to be a little beast for sure

I have played with it some on some of my home made obstacles. I am pretty happy with it.

Still not 100% in love with how my electronics are, especially the ESC so high up front.

I have 2 different ideas I am going to try

 

[Tallbump]

Slowly making progress on the body
Picked this up at Hobby Lobby for $1.79

Didn't get pics but I spray painted the inside of the cab a grey.

Pretty happy with it so far. I threw a coat of grey on the outside last night, just to sort of act as a primer. I will go over it with a few coats of flat black.

I also need to work on trimming this part of the fender a bit

I then have an interior to go in - seat and dash with steering wheel, and attach the front grill

 

[Tallbump]

Got some more work done last night

Also had a small set back

I contacted Treel last ight via email around 10 PM. When I checked at 7 this morning I already had an email that they are replacing it free of charge

 

[Tallbump]

It's basically "done". Waiting to get the replacement wheel from Treal. Then the front wheels will go on with yellow Injora inserts.

I had to build up the area for the front magnet mounts

It's far from perfect, but it's mine.

This really is my first build every.
Built from scratch, chassis up. I picked up all the components and did 99% of the assembly.
The body sits a little higher than I would like.
But this was my first attempt ever mounting a body. And this is from a model kit I bought, not a 3d printed or factory body made for SCX24s. Also, when I picked the chassis to start the build, I wasn't planning on adding a body at all.

Once the front wheels are back on, I'll get some better pics and whenever I can get it crawling I'll get some video

 

[Tallbump]

Been awhile since I did anything with this one.

Printed a new body. I like the concept of what was going for with the original, but, I think this new one looks better.

Now, with the battle bug body. I am going to play around more with the magnets for mounting. I have bigger ones I want to put up front and I need to tweak the placement a bit. But overall, I like it. I MIGHT put a driver in, too. The body as in this picture isn't mounted, it's just sitting there. The magnets shifted a little when I glued them and it moved the body a bit forward. I'll work on that tonight