Motor plugs

[gotgasracing]

Which are the best motor conectors... deans or plugs? the plastic protection on my plugs keep melting and the ;plugs get stuck together..... which are better?

 

[RustlerDood]

the best connection is straight solder to the battery pack but Deans is the next best...Deans Ultras

 

[gotgasracing]

i think u mean straight solder them to the esc??? if not, could u plz put a more detailed explanation of the batterypack-esc-motor wiring....

 

[MonsterCowpower]

Deans Ultra plugs are not the absolute best but for the ease of installation and price they are probably the most practical choice.

From minis to larger electric they do a great job.I purchased so far about twenty packs of male/female connectors and did ALL my electrics using the Deans Ultra.


You simply cut off the cheapie Tamyia conectors on the ESC,motor and cells(becareful not to cut both at the same time,SHORT ! ).Strip the wire about 3 to 4mm,prime with solder.Do not let the wire absorb too much solder or it will remain stiff(you want a flexible wire).Just make sure the striped wire has solder on it.

Next you prime each connector on the Deans Ultra plugs,make sure you are using a quality iron and a HOT iron(45W or more) .Each connector should take around a second to prime well(if its longer practice soldering skills on some junk wires before).

...

Slide a short piece of shrink tube on the now cool cableabout 3 inches or more from the soldering point.Solder the deans primed connector with the primed wire...heat up the wire tip and both fuse as one.Just after the joint is made,slide quickly the shrink tube on the joint...the tube will shrink on the still hot joint.

And as always respect polarity.

Easy,soldering is very easy.Just remember a HOT iron,a third hand or vise to hold pieces while soldering.Some practice on junk wires and common sense(never overheat parts).And you are good to go



Note

Most racing ESC's have soldering tabs,primed with solder or gold plated tabs.Same principle,a hot iron and quality solder make soldering easy,and use flexible wire.I use Deans Wet Noodle 12GA wires all around(save for micro cars).Always always prime the wire end to be soldered on to the tab.The joint should take no longer than a second.

 

[Pinblaster]

I like the Sermos Powerpoles over any of them (mainly for battery connectors though). I have never seen any of them melt under a load like the tamyia connectors do. They are easier to solder to the wires w/o ruining the connector, (like I have with the Deans plugs). And they don't have exposed terminals that have to be taped or shrink wrapped. The only thing I like about the Deans Plugs are the small size, other than that they are a pain in the butt.

Another option, (which is something I did on my electic trucks) go to Radio Shack and pick up a Euro style terminal strip ( http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&product_id=274-678 ) and cut them down so you have 2 poles/4 screws per chunk. Then tin the tips of your wires to keep the strands together. mount the strips to your rear tower or other out of the way place on your chassis with a 4-40 cap head screw and nut. Run your motor wires to one side and the ESC wires to the other. Now you have an easy way to change your motors w/o the high cost of Deans plugs that can be ruined if you over heat them with a soldering iron. :hammer:

 

[MonsterCowpower]

Deans Ultra connectors are very easy to worth with,anyone with good soldering skills will make perfect joints time after time with no overehating.

I soldered over fourty Deans Ultra connectors in one day and I have yet to overehat one,even slightly.And I use a piece of junk 45W iron most of you could find for $10.Just ditch the irins under 40W,as they will not be hot to do speedy and well done priming jobs.And this is very bad as you hold the iron tip too long on the piece you will overehat it(the plastic here).

The secret is to preehat the iron well,after prime the Deans tabs with a thin coat of hot solder.let them cool,while you are priming the wire ends.

Here again the end should be covered in solder and solder should be absorbed a few mm under the insulation.Not too deep or the cable will remain rigid(not good).After you hold the deans in a vise and touch the end of the primed cable with the primed tab...hot irin for not even half a second...perfect.


And when you slide the heat shrink tube fast back on the joint it will auto shrink.The cable cools and you have a ready to rock solid connection.