Motor Break In

[HoosierRC]

New to RC, getting a 2WD Slash with the Titan.
I am thinking about water break in, saw it on youtube.
Would you guys recommend this process for my new Slash? If not, do you have another good way to break
in the motor? Thanks in advance!

 

[Grumpy]

New to RC, getting a 2WD Slash with the Titan.
I am thinking about water break in, saw it on youtube.
Would you guys recommend this process for my new Slash? If not, do you have another good way to break
in the motor? Thanks in advance!

Been rc'ing since 82 and use to do that for yesrs until I got a break in tool. It works very good.

 

[HoosierRC]

Where can I find a break in tool? That sounds like a good idea.

 

[tamiya]

water dipping works

otoh... ain't much difference than just running the truck

if you're racing and need to break in a few motors in 1 evening for tomorrow's racing
then yeah water dipping is good - you can process the lot after dinner before bedtime

but if you're mainly bashing the truck then just run it



ps re Titan, the can has a chiclet-sized cavity in the can that's covered by the
torque tube (metal ring on the outside)... best to drainout the water before storage
otherwise you'll be wondering why it keeps dripping for hours

 

[HoosierRC]

I think I will use the water break in method. I plan on racing the truck and not bashing it. I have started building a track for it on my property. Racing is the reason I decided to go with the Slash, it is realistic looking also.
I almost bought a MERV to bash with, but decided racing was what I really wanted to do. Thanks for the info!

 

[Grumpy]

Where can I find a break in tool? That sounds like a good idea.

I have the Muchmore Racing Motor Master. They are spendy, but cheaper in the long run cause it saves motors. I'm sure there are others out there though. Water dipping works good. I just want to make sure and the Muchmore Displays exact data such as amp draw, RPM, voltage, peak amp draw and running time. The linear pulse break-in mode breaks in motors automatically, so no guess work.

 

[HoosierRC]

Cool, thanks Grumpy! I'll look up one of those.

 

[tamiya]

meh save your $$

at the end of the day those "motor master" gadgets are simply free-running the motor
which doesn't put any physical load on it at all... imho data is just meaningless numbers

may be useful to compare 2 (otherwise) identical motors but little else

Real dynos (koffkoff Turbo Dynamics) put an actual load on the motor to judge real power output.


breakin machines work better for 'mod' motors with ballbearings that won't wear out.
Also they have softer brushes than a typical sealed can's rockhard 'for life' brushes.
By the time you've run a Titan's brushes in... the bushings could be on their way out!




If you're new to the Slash &/or RC altogether, best advise is to go PRACTICE PRACTICE & PRACTICE.

Buy a whole bunch of decent battery packs so you can maximise your time on track when you're there.

Don't waste $$ buying odd gadgets when surefire way to the podium is simply practising your driving
and learn how setup the car properly to handle your race track.

 

[Grumpy]

meh save your $$

at the end of the day those "motor master" gadgets are simply free-running the motor
which doesn't put any physical load on it at all... imho data is just meaningless numbers

may be useful to compare 2 (otherwise) identical motors but little else

Real dynos (koffkoff Turbo Dynamics) put an actual load on the motor to judge real power output.


breakin machines work better for 'mod' motors with ballbearings that won't wear out.
Also they have softer brushes than a typical sealed can's rockhard 'for life' brushes.
By the time you've run a Titan's brushes in... the bushings could be on their way out!




If you're new to the Slash &/or RC altogether, best advise is to go PRACTICE PRACTICE & PRACTICE.

Buy a whole bunch of decent battery packs so you can maximise your time on track when you're there.

Don't waste $$ buying odd gadgets when surefire way to the podium is simply practising your driving
and learn how setup the car properly to handle your race track.

I have to agree here. The reason I use it is because I drag race and dirt oval and we use bearing motors with tons of power. Like the AstroFlight Top Fuel and gold brushes. For what you use, it would be a waste of money. I would just water dip if anything at all.

 

[marauder]

If you decide to use water break-in method, you MUST blow the water out then clean with a high alcohol content motor cleaning spray to prevent corrosion then you'll need to re-lube the bushings otherwise you were just better off breaking it in on the truck. If you follow traxxas's manual on break-in procedure you'll be more than fine, I raced both motors one being broken in per manual and the other via water method and didn't notice any difference.

 

[tamiya]

what does the manual say, btw?

(sorry never read it, my manuals all stay wrapped in the kitbox hehe)

 

[HoosierRC]

Will my LHS have the motor cleaner or if not, where can I find some?

 

[Grumpy]

Will my LHS have the motor cleaner or if not, where can I find some?

I keep this on hand all the time:
T.A. Emerald Performance Plus 3 Motor Spray, or Powershot, and get it Tower Hobbie. But you can get motor cleaner just about everywhere.

 

[tamiya]

Motor spray, electrical (non-residue) contact cleaner, brake parts cleaner... all work the same - just make sure they won't dissolve plastic.

LHS motor spray is cheaper than electrical contact cleaner, have seen tecchies come in to buy LHS can instead of their trade supplier.

And when our LHS can't get stock of the usual motorspray brands (Trinity Nitro Blast,
Orion Motor Cleaner, Duratrax Powershot), they get this OWS 610 german stuff.

works just as well, has a funky lemon scent

 

[Grumpy]

I am sure there are a million brands, kinds, and types. We could go on and on and just confuss you more. Everyone thinks what they use is the best and where they get it is the cheapest. Heck, even Walmart sells CRC which is good to use and cheap. That's what I love about these forums. Everyone is an expert, even though they have been in it only a month.

 

[tamiya]

no such thing as motorspray when i first started racing an Associated RC300

shellite (aka "coleman gas" to yanks) in a trigger bottle worked back then... oh 1978 or so

 

[Grumpy]

You are almost as old as I am then. I started about then, and was 38 at the time. It is just a figure of speach when I say that. I am not trying to be so technical, but looks like I should huh...Excuse me!

 

[tamiya]

morning! cold winter's morning here... & lordy the olde joints are feeling real stiff


haha yeah, water dipping technique comes from pre-RC slotcar days

feel real old when some kids playing RC today don't realise the world existed pre-YouTube

 

[Grumpy]

morning! cold winter's morning here... & lordy the olde joints are feeling real stiff


haha yeah, water dipping technique comes from pre-RC slotcar days

feel real old when some kids playing RC today don't realise the world existed pre-YouTube

I agree totally with you! :thumbup1:

 

[tamiya]

i vote olde farts should keep the Colgate toothpaste trick all to ourselves,
dun confuse the kiddies eh?

(that my Titan keeps up with 17.5 BLs and smells minty fresh is only a coincidence!!) :thumbup1: