Mitsibushi evo help

[sammysnake]

Hi nitro heads.
Bought this from new and just can't get the bugger to start. Got a good glow on plug.
It revs very briefly then cuts out and the pull start becomes tight.
I think it's maybe flooding. I have trolled the Web looking for advice on this engine but don't see one with this odd needle set up.
I'm not sure how to lean it out and don't want to start changing the factory setup until I'm sure I'm right HELP!
Any advice would be much apreciated!

Ps the plug is out to get the excess fuel out and air filter off to show gap.
Looks a little over 1mm but not sure until I can get a vernier on it

 

[WickedFog]

1mm = .03937", or about the thickness of a toothpick. That gap looks a little bigger than that. I'm not a nitro guy, so I can't help ya anymore that that. But I just wanted to comment - that is a weird looking setup on that fuel line. I don't think I've seen anything like that before.

 

[TRAT]

Altitude humidity and temperature all come into a factor. Sounds like ur running it to fat if it’s getting tight on pulls means a lot fuel in Combustion.
My .28 runs tight but that’s because I had the block machine for high compression. Yours is stock so should pull smoother unless loaded up. Lean your fuel

 

[WVNed]

That looks like an old aircraft engine with a single needle carb. Those quit being used mostly because they bent easily.

What brand is the car or the engine? That would help.

In general less fuel is closing the big needle by turning it clockwise. The screw on the right is a stop screw that controls how far the barrel can close and sets the idle gap.

There may be another needle to adjust in the center of the barrel you can't see in the pics.

 

[NitroR/C]

maximum needle adjustment: for a basic calibration of the maximum needle you have to close it completely and unscrew it 2 1/2 turns.
minimum needle adjustment: for a basic calibration of the minimum needle you must close it completely and unscrew it 2 1/2 turns.
mechanical idle needle adjustment: for a basic setting of the mechanical idle needle you must have a guillotine opening of about 1-1.5 mm.
once this is done you can move on to adjusting the pins while the engine is running: start your model car and braking at full throttle it must hold the idle. if this does not happen screw 1/4 turn at a time on the mechanical idle until you reach the goal. if, on the other hand, the car at idle is very accelerated and even the wheels move unscrew 1/4 turn at a time on the mechanical idle until you have the right idle. to adjust the idle you must accelerate hard and if the car has some misses (lean carburation) you must unscrew 1/4 turn at a time until you reach the optimal carburation. on the other hand, if the car mumbles and struggles to rev up (fat carburation) you must screw the maximum 1/4 turn at a time until this no longer happens. to adjust the dynamic idle you have to accelerate and if the car smokes and accelerates slowly you have to screw the dynamic idle 1/4 turn at a time, if on the other hand the little car smokes very little and accelerates on its own you have to unscrew the dynamic idle. fat carburations are always to be preferred as they keep the engine "fresher" and lubricated. with lean carburations instead you risk seizing it.

 

[WickedFog]

Such a great group of nitro heads here!

 

[WVNed]

Use some wood to make something to sit under the car while you start it to get the wheels off the ground. That way it wont try to take off if the engine revs up.

 

[sammysnake]

Thanks guys I'm gona have a tinker later and see if I can get it leaned out. Everything tells me it flooding so I'll try putting the needle right in and back it out 2 and a half turns.
Also it's a thunder tiger engine.
Yeah its a weird and old setup

 

[sammysnake]

maximum needle adjustment: for a basic calibration of the maximum needle you have to close it completely and unscrew it 2 1/2 turns.
minimum needle adjustment: for a basic calibration of the minimum needle you must close it completely and unscrew it 2 1/2 turns.
mechanical idle needle adjustment: for a basic setting of the mechanical idle needle you must have a guillotine opening of about 1-1.5 mm.
once this is done you can move on to adjusting the pins while the engine is running: start your model car and braking at full throttle it must hold the idle. if this does not happen screw 1/4 turn at a time on the mechanical idle until you reach the goal. if, on the other hand, the car at idle is very accelerated and even the wheels move unscrew 1/4 turn at a time on the mechanical idle until you have the right idle. to adjust the idle you must accelerate hard and if the car has some misses (lean carburation) you must unscrew 1/4 turn at a time until you reach the optimal carburation. on the other hand, if the car mumbles and struggles to rev up (fat carburation) you must screw the maximum 1/4 turn at a time until this no longer happens. to adjust the dynamic idle you have to accelerate and if the car smokes and accelerates slowly you have to screw the dynamic idle 1/4 turn at a time, if on the other hand the little car smokes very little and accelerates on its own you have to unscrew the dynamic idle. fat carburations are always to be preferred as they keep the engine "fresher" and lubricated. with lean carburations instead you risk seizing it.

Thank you for the comprehensive reply! I screwed the big needle right in and back out 2 and a half turns and sounded eager so after a bit of finer tuning away she went.
Only thing is the wheels want to turn on tick over and I've figured out the idle screw and can't get the carb gap any smaller so I'm thinking it might be something to do with the settings on the push rod for the throttle servo (wich are spring loaded)
Again thanks for the great advice!
She lives!
Thanks to all replys!
SHE ALIVE!
Still battling the idle speed as wheels want to turn ticking over and have adjusted the carb closed as much as I can with the screw AND THROTTLE TRIM as gap looked too big.
Thank ya all she's running so trouble shooing is much easier

 

[sammysnake]

Use some wood to make something to sit under the car while you start it to get the wheels off the ground. That way it wont try to take off if the engine revs up.

Good advice! I always start it against a firm surface so it can't run away!

Use some wood to make something to sit under the car while you start it to get the wheels off the ground. That way it wont try to take off if the engine revs up.

 

[sammysnake]

Great bunch of experts! Had it running nice today after 3 tank break in!
Thanks for all the advice guys!
This is why these sites exist!
Couldn't be happier