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gnarkill

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  1. Bashing
I just burnt my 2nd spur in less than 2.5 gallons. It should run fine with the plastic, no? The only thing is that I am running aluminum clutch shoes in an unvented clutch. Is it time to go with the metal spur? Also, where does it move the weak point in the drive train to... the trans?
 
Get a vented CB and you will not have another problem with plastic spurs...

I know a dude that blew up his tranny with a crazy modded engine while running a plastic spur. The spur was fine. He had a vented cb...
 
Running with plastic is fine. I think that the damage can move back to the clutchbell and strip it, not sure though. I don't think it can transfer down the drivetrain because of the slipper clutch.
 
Iv shredded cb's with a metal spur before. Id rather just use plastic, much cheaper.
 
Depending on your engine and your gearing, plastic is fine to run.

If you gear it too high, it tends to heat up the CB due to the shoes slipping, causing bell heat that eventually melts your spur teeth. If your geared high and your engine has the power to push it, the spur/slipper is hard to get right as well, causing hot slipper assembly to melt the center of the spur out.

I had to drop my gearing from 47/16 to 49/16 to keep the slipper from slipping after a few minutes of running. Once it started slipping, it just got worse and worse. I changed out the spur (and re-roughed the pad and slipper plate) then put it back together with the slipper spring fully compressed, but not any further and haven't had a single issue since.

Bad CB bearings also let the CB wobble and overheat, the wobble will tear up spurs, the overheating will cause similar issues to a slipping clutch by making the bell hot. Although, usually when a CB bearing dies, it flies apart.

Could be a cracked engine mount or engine mount plate. Or, your not really good at setting up mesh yet.
 
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I'm finding that if i run a 17/49 combo, it lasts forever. I also bought an aftermarket motor plate but i can see this plate not lasting too long. Either I'm waay too hard on my truck or parts are just made cheap!
 
Depending on your engine and your gearing, plastic is fine to run.

If you gear it too high, it tends to heat up the CB due to the shoes slipping, causing bell heat that eventually melts your spur teeth. If your geared high and your engine has the power to push it, the spur/slipper is hard to get right as well, causing hot slipper assembly to melt the center of the spur out.

I had to drop my gearing from 47/16 to 49/16 to keep the slipper from slipping after a few minutes of running. Once it started slipping, it just got worse and worse. I changed out the spur (and re-roughed the pad and slipper plate) then put it back together with the slipper spring fully compressed, but not any further and haven't had a single issue since.

Bad CB bearings also let the CB wobble and overheat, the wobble will tear up spurs, the overheating will cause similar issues to a slipping clutch by making the bell hot. Although, usually when a CB bearing dies, it flies apart.

Could be a cracked engine mount or engine mount plate. Or, your not really good at setting up mesh yet.

Thanks for the reply. I do have brand new cb bearings and the engine mount and plate are not cracked but I am still at the factory gearing of 47 and 17. How does it run on the 49 and 16? In the owner manuel it says to tighten down the nut until the spring is fully compressed , the back it out 1/4 turn. You are just running fully compressed, right? What is your opinion on vented bells, necessary or no?
 
Thanks for the reply. I do have brand new cb bearings and the engine mount and plate are not cracked but I am still at the factory gearing of 47 and 17. How does it run on the 49 and 16? In the owner manuel it says to tighten down the nut until the spring is fully compressed , the back it out 1/4 turn. You are just running fully compressed, right? What is your opinion on vented bells, necessary or no?



You should still take ur plate out and lay it on a flat table to see if its bent. I had the same prob, plate looked fine but wen i took it out and layed it down she was warped.
 
You should still take ur plate out and lay it on a flat table to see if its bent. I had the same prob, plate looked fine but wen i took it out and layed it down she was warped.

Okay, The plate is the purple anodized piece of aluminum under the engine, correct?
 
Okay, The plate is the purple anodized piece of aluminum under the engine, correct?



Correct, just tryin to save u headaches. I couldent figure it out either until someone told me to check the plate. On my third on now.
 
How does it run on the 49 and 16? In the owner manuel it says to tighten down the nut until the spring is fully compressed , the back it out 1/4 turn. You are just running fully compressed, right? What is your opinion on vented bells, necessary or no?

For me, 49/16 is fast enough, but I'm running a 3-speed trans as well with what I'm pretty sure are the standard 3-speed gears.

If I loosen mine 1/4 turn, it slips. So I have mine fully compressed, but not crushed if that makes any sense.

Not sure if the vented bell hurts or hinders anything. I'm running a vented bell because it was a spare 16T that I had laying around. Supposedly they run cooler... I never temp mine and I've always ran vented bells, except on my aftershock, so I don't know if it makes a diff.
 
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