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Maybe and air leak???

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Domination

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Well i was doing some bashing on pavement today and screwed the svage pretty bad i bent the head and roll bar all to hell. The last jump i did landed straight on the head and screwed that pretty bad along with bending the engine plat where one of the engine mount screws go in but i took it out and banged it down with a small hammer and that fixed it and the gears then meshed properly. But when it landed on the head it just cut out and diedand when it was ready to go and start i wnet and it started and died then it would start idle for a few seconds and die then if i rev it itll stay revving high when i let off of the throttle then it will die and i can drive it around but once i let off it will stay revving then itll come down to idle for about 2 seconds and die. The settings are the same so dont say its to rich/lean on the LSN. I've tried tightening(SP?) the carb neck and head but to no avail couls i have a air leak??? I'm going to tear it down tomarra or tonight also .
 
Sounds like you may have cracked the block. Take the engine mount off the engine and the head off the engine. Inspect the crank case for cracks. If you took a hard hit on the head, a crack is probably your cause.
 
hey olds thanks for your input and sadly your right. I have a nice crack on each side of the mill this sucks its only about 2 weeks old too lil over a gallon through her.

Where and for how much could i get a new block from? Or would it just be better to get a new engine? If the block is pretty cheap ill prob go in that direction.
 
It wont pay to rebuild that engine. You would be much better off just throwing something like a Hyper 21 8 port in it. They can be had for around $130. It will cost you more than that to properly rebuild the stock engine. Especially if it took that bad of a hit.
 
I would tend to agree with NCNitro. If you took a hit that bad, you may have caused more damage than you can see.

I don't know what engine you have, so it's hard to tell what crankcase you would need. This is the 21BB Crank Case. This is the S-25 crank case Both are $34. It may be cost and time effective to salvage what you can off the old engine and buy a new one that's the same if you liked it. Then down the road, you could re-use everything but the crank case and maybe the head and head button. Since they may be tweeked as well due to the crash.
 
check ebay theres always good deal you could get a hyper 8 like 80-90.i bought a picco .26 with ths pipe.hpi vented fly wheel,steel spur set,motor saver,nova head,and 2 o.s glow plugs for 150 shipped just got to keep looking ebay
 
Feelin' Your Pain

I had the same deal yesterday afternoon. Came down hard from about a 10' jump, right on the head. Broke off the back half of each of the crankcase motor mounts. One side broke off leaving a nice view of the insides. I was a little luckier. I was at the end of my third gallon.

I did a bit of searching on eBay and found this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=19168&item=5910745690&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW. I don't know if it's a good deal or not, it appears to be, the price looks good compared to a block alone. Caveat emptor, I suppose.

Has anyone else had any luck with this kind of rebuild kit? It appears that I'll just reuse the carb and head. Probably going to go with the Nova head that seems to be all the rage. I'm thinking I'll be taking another look at all of the posts on roll cages too. Any input would be appreciated.
 
I have gone through two engine blocks on my S-25 now running the picco .26 outlaw, I still fixed the S-25 and have it as a back up. just in case
 
i ordered the picco .26 i should have it by monday or tuesday.
 
hey watup goose has anbody tried the wasp 28 i don't now if its even out yet I'm thinking of getting it for my savages
 
i dont think its out yet. And what i hear its not a .28 its actually a .27 if you do thge math and that its actually a Fantom .27 like the wasp .26 is a Picco .26.
 
The wasp .28 is not out yet but I have my order in at towerhobbies already. Will post when I install it in the savage.
 
Domination said:
i dont think its out yet. And what i hear its not a .28 its actually a .27 if you do thge math and that its actually a Fantom .27 like the wasp .26 is a Picco .26.
Click to expand...

I have heard quite a few people say this and I simply do not believe it. Peak Racing is also releasing the .28 which I do believe is the same as Orion's, or vice versa. I don't know who the original manufacturer is but the Diablo(peak's version) and the Orion are definitely the same. I emailed orion a few days ago and am waiting for a reply. I just don't belive that two reputable companies would flat out lie about the displacement of their engines. I also have an orion .28 waiting for me when they are released. In the meantime I have done the math and here are my results.

displacement = pi/4 x bore(squared) x stroke x number of cylinders
pi/4=0.7853982

Oion and Diablo .28:
bore = 18.8mm = 0.7401575 inches, bore squared = 0.5478331
stroke = 16.5mm = 0.6496063 inches
displacement = .7853982 x .5478331 x .6496063 x 1 =
displacement = .2795042 or .28

fantom .27:
bore = 18.5mm = 0.7283465 inches, bore squared = 0.5304886
stroke = 16.5mm = 0.6496063 inches
displacement = .7853982 x .5304886 x .6496063 x 1 =
displacement = .270655 or .27

my bore and stroke measurements came from the company websites
Orion
Peak Racing
Fantom

I suppose it is possible that the Diablo and Orion start out as .27's and then bored out to .28, but who's to say. Food for thought :idea:
 
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I have both the picco 26 and the wasp 26, looked at the blocks and have taken both apart to find that they are TWINS. There is no diffrence between them.
 
the werks .26 is the same as the picco .26 also with some minor modifacations to the internals to pull some more ponies out
 

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