Maxx been sitting

[Bighomedog11]

Hey I have a Tmaxx the 2.5 frame with the 3.3 engine in it. It has been sitting for awhile probably 9 months or so because it had a broken Carb. I bought a new Carb for it and bolted it on and try to start it up. It was running before the carb broke so i was thinking it was going to start up with some new fuel. It did not start up..

I am trying to figure out what could possible be the problem? I check the glow-plug and it heats up red but i did not get a new glow plug because that one still heats up bright red..

I also noticed my pull-start will sometime feel like it will slip when i was pulling it.

 

[_danimal_]

I have the same setup with 2.5 chassis and a 3.3 engine. My Maxx sat for awhile also and the engine was totally gummed up. That might also explain why the pull start feels like it's slipping.

 

[Bighomedog11]

Oh really, But i always kept After Run oil in my engine so hopefully its not gummed up.

 

[Bighomedog11]

I took the motor apart and cleaned it up.. Everything seems to look fine, But i notice that the pull-start is still slipping when i pull it. I think this might be the reason why it is not starting.. How would i fix the pull-start from slipping when i pull it?

 

[Snook Man]

Clean the OWB, if it still slips afterward you need to replace it.

http://traxxas.com/support/How-Clean-and-Maintain-Roller-Clutch-One-Way-Bearing

 

[Childresshunt]

i agree with snook clean the owb soak it in some nitro and let it set out for a day to dry then see what happens

 

[Bighomedog11]

I notice that on the owb it had some scuff marks on it the side were the writing is. Could this possible mean it is damage and not able to be cleaned? I took it out and wiped it down and put it back in and it still did the same thing..

 

[Snook Man]

If you just wiped the outside of the bearing it will not help. The inside is what needs cleaned, there are needle bearings and ramps built into the bearing and when they get dirty/too much oil they can not grab the starter shaft properly and slip.

You can clean it with Denatured alcohol/brake cleaner/ wd-40 etc, anything that will cut the build up inside, then blow it dry and add a couple drops of light wt oil for lubrication.

If after a proper cleaning it still slips, it needs replaced. I recommend also replacing the starter shaft if the bearing is replaced.

An old trick we use to do is to drill a hole in the cheezy start housing centered in the middle of the bearing and when it slips you can spray the bearing with wd-40/straw without removing the engine for a quick short term fix.

 

[Bighomedog11]

I took the bearing out again today. And i wiped it down real good and i put some after run oil on the bearing and it seem like it fixed the slipping for now. I will probably have to take it back out and let it soak in some kind of degreaser as stated above.

I also notice i had put some RTV around the head of the engine and i notice when i had it running the RTV would bubble up and seem like it was melting from the heat. I think i might have a air leak between the head because i notice the head was real warm for the short period of time it was running and i also notice when i would give it gas it would die.

What is the best way to seal the head on the engine?

 

[Childresshunt]

remove the head of the motor and look at the copper gasket and see if it is bent or miss-shaped in any kind of way. If it is clean the rtv u put off and wipe dry with a rag add the new copper shim (gasket) and line the head up like it need to be and tighten your bolts down in a x pattern. And dont just tighten one bolt all the way then move to the next only tighten till you feel the bolt bottom out and start to tighten then move to the next in a star pattern. After you have them all snugged then tighten one down and move to the next still in star pattern and when your dont recheck to be sure they are tight also doesn't hurt to put some blue locktight on the bolts either.

 

[Bighomedog11]

The copper gasket looks fine. I just cleaned the surfure and real sealed it. This time i am going to let it dry for about 1hour and it says takes 24 hours to fully cure witch i did not wait 24 hours last time. I am also using the "Permatex 81158 Black Silicone Adhesive Sealant" Sense i already had that in my basement.

 

[Nitro4910]

You need absolutely NO silicone sealer anywhere on the head gasket.

Just clean the sealing area on both the block & head then put the copper gasket on the head & bolt it down, using silicone anywhere here will cause a leak, not prevent one.

On other areas you need to let the sealant cure for the 24hrs as the package says to, same thing with loctite, has to cure overnight.

 

[Spikes32]

One thing with the "form a gasket" products is to use them sparingly especially around the bolt/ screw holes. If the bolt/ screw is run down into a threaded hole with sealer in there it could cause the threads to strip out; I have seen this in autos at the valve covers and trans pans with these RTV gaskets.