Made cooling head

[pee wee]

I'm a tool and die maker so I have all the machines I need to make anything I want or need. So today I made a cooling head for my picco.26 in my savage. After about 10 hours work I was done. I wish I had a digital camera because it turned out SWEET!! looks exactly like the stock one but not purple. I know I could have bought one but thats not as much fun. Anyhow I made the head dia 30% bigger, now it's 2-3/4... BIG! Well I got it all back together and it was really frecking nice today, about 50 degrees so I took it for a test drive. Now I did not have the body on at all the hottest it got was 245 but the average was 225 and I could put the palm of my hand on the top of the head for a good 5 second before it got to hot. I have the temp wire in the last groove in the engine block just before the cooling head itself I believe thats in the right spot. I do not have any experience with aftermarket heads so I was wandering if these temps look right? If so can I lean it out? How do I know when it's to lean? With the head being that big can you make the engine run to cool and try to over compensate by leaning it out to much and starve it on lubrication and burn it up? Hope you understand what I'm trying to ask? Thanks for your time and help!!! Pee Wee

 

[slothy]

i wouldn’t try going any leaner (unless its pouring raw gas out a the pipe or running noticeable rich) , when going too lean you're cutting down on lubrication

 

[Error401]

I'm running a custom head that made out of some trick alloy. The temps dropped like yours did pee wee, and I leaned mine out some to get the temps back up to about 250. The main problem with lube vs temp is that the oil will thermally break down above a certain temp, and that send it on a loop (more heat, more lube breakdown thus more heat and so on). If you keep the temps below 270, the oil won't break down and you should be ok. The fuel makes the best power when the engine is at a certain temp anyway, so running it cold will actually decrese the power. Just my 2 cents, and it works for me. Though, there is a point where getting too lean will in fact do harm since there isn't enough total oil comming in, so use discression and sneak up on what works for you.

Whitt...

 

[spanko123]

hey dude, thats so cool that you dudes made you're own poop i wish i had machinery to make my own, rok on kid, and ya no, they pretty much got it, if ya run rich its gunna lubricate engine good and keep down friction witch is you're worst enemy (besides dirt) and if its lean more fuel without lube and more power more kick ya now but always take care you're engine run a little rich make sure good amout of bluish white smoke is coming out stinger all the time so you take care of you're baby it will rin cool beat engine less so what if lil less kick, no gunna get... "robbed" of power so to say, just gunna run clean, lubricated and cool in the long run you're engine run run better you se just play aroumd with carb and keep on makin custom parts!! screw overcharged plastic parts frpm lhs 4 lyfe!

 

[Error401]

ok, I think I got the gist of that.

 

[<losl>]

Hello everyone i just got registered here....I have a Jrxt and a xxx-nt and drive the xxxnt regularly. Question for anyone in the know on this....The mach .15 motor that came with my truck seized up during a move cause there was still some gas in it....so i am gonna go ahead with the rebuild.....where do i get directions and a rebuild kit for this motor ( this is my first nitro). Help is appreciated.

 

[olds97_lss]

You sure it's seized and not hydro locked?

Don't think i would bother with a rebuild on that engine. The cost just doesn't do it. $40 for a piston and sleeve, $15 for a connection rod. Another $40 and you have a brand new engine with a brand new oneway and main bearing.

I opted for a different brand. I used the OS .15 cv-r(X). I've gotten way more life out of this engine than the mach. And way more power. Plus it's also easier to tune and it stays tuned.