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You can put lockers, but I would not recommend it. I put one in the rear on my Savage and snapped a dog bone on the first jump I did after putting the locker in. I run 50,000 weight silicone differential fluid in mine and they are pretty tight. You will get a ton of recommendations as to what weight diff oil to run, but if you want "almost locked" run really heavy. One problem with heavy diff oil is you will get a lot of push at WOT. In other words as the truck accelerates it will veer off course. With the lighter fluid you have more slip and a more controllable truck. Another thing to keep in mind is your turning radius will be reduced with thicker fluid.
 
Thanks parput. i'm actually thinking of only fatting up the front diff, becuase I lose so much damn time cornering with the inner front wheel of the ground. She's dumped and getting phaltlines soon so hopefully the veering won't be too bad.

so I just open up the diff and put oil in? fill her riiight up or what?
 
I'm not 100%, but older savages came with greese in the diffs. Regardless if it's oil or grease, you will have to crack the diff (take it apart) and clean out the old lube. Then when you have the spiders back in, you fill it up even with the cross shafts with your oil of preference.

I run 50K in my aftershock on front/rear. I have to say, it really killed my handling quite a bit. I was surprised at how much it became more of a point and shoot. Probably should have went with 30K... but being a basher, who cares!?!?!

It's kind of cool how I can tap the brakes to push the weight toward the front, crank the wheel and pin the throttle and it whips around on a dime now. It doesn't so much turn at speed now as much as power slide through the corners! But I did loose a lot of the quick steering that I had. Considering I run in the open mostly (never on a track or groomed surface), having the heavy oil will make it less likely to get high centered on stuff. Now that all 4 wheels get a considerable amount of power regardless if one side is in the air or not.
 
Gordz said:
Thanks parput. i'm actually thinking of only fatting up the front diff, becuase I lose so much damn time cornering with the inner front wheel of the ground. She's dumped and getting phaltlines soon so hopefully the veering won't be too bad.

so I just open up the diff and put oil in? fill her riiight up or what?
Click to expand...

Some people will tell you to fill them all the way up, but I prefer to leave some empty space. Reason being if you fill it all the way up when you put the diff together you will squeeze some fluid out into the screw holes that hold the diff together and this makes lock tite useless. Also, the fluid will expand when hot so it is a good idea to leave a little breathing room. I just fill mine up till the fluid almost covers the spider gears.
 
hmm cheers parputt. trying to nut out what weight I want now.


BTW, guys, that diff i bought on ebay... is that whizz bang hotter than my savvy x 4.6 RTR diff? should I replace the front / rear with it or just leave it in the spares bin?
 
Your Savage X RTR should have come with aluminum diff housings and 4 spider gears. If so you are fine. If the diff housing is plastic then go ahead and replace with the aluminum. Another thing you need to look at before you button everything up is to shim the diffs. Here is a tutorial:http://www.beatyourtruck.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14020

Keep in mind they are using a different diff housing (bulkhead) but the idea is the same. Mine always take two shims on one side and one on the other. The side with the pinion takes one. Doing this will eliminate side to side slop and save you from having to replace ring and pinion gears all the time.
 

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