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lrp z28

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jayce

RC Newbie
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  1. Bashing
i am in need of some help...i just bought an lrp z28 for my savage and have been trying to break it in...hell I'm almost ready to start breaking stuff...I'm fustrated,i can't seem to keep that motor running..have tried everything...as soon as i hit the throttle the engine stalls...those anybody own one and can i get the right setting for the dang thing...please I'm really almost giving up on it
 
Heat the engine up before you start it to at least 180F. A hairdryer will do if that is all you have but they only reach 150F, which is plenty hot enough to get a stable idle. Loosen the plug just a little before starting. As soon as it fires gently ease into the throttle a few times. Tighten the glow plug, by the way it should be a MC-59 plug or O'Donnell's medium hot plug for the first gallon.
If it dies as soon as you touch the throttle after that, lean the LSN 1/8 turn in and HSN 1/4 turn. Think about the needles like this.... The LSN controls fuel flow from idle to 1/4 throttle. So use it to get a stable idle speed and a running temp of 180F. The HSN takes over after 1/4 throttle, so if it dies as soon as you get past 1/4 throttle it's probably too rich on the HSN. Lean it some more. If it revs up and then dies it's too lean on the HSN. Once you get it running you may need to richen it back up a tad. My LRP required more tuning on the LSN than it did on the HSN for the first gallon. Be patient with this engine, it has a lot of pinch for the first gallon or so. Preheating it before starting is a must.
 
Scrogg has you on the right path. Both my LRP's were real bears until I got about 10-12 tanks through them. I had to heat the engine as he suggested up to around 150 or so (as hot as my hair dryer would get it) and make sure not to over prime then try to get it running. Leaning it a bit sounds like a good idea. Mine were both pig rich out of the box.

Once running, lift it off the ground then gently rev it a bit to get RPM's up. Leave the glow plug heater on it for a little bit after you get the RPM's up to keep the glow plug hot. Once you get it running, keep the RPM's up a bit to keep the engine as clear of fuel build up as you can then pull the heater and gently drive it.

Once I got 10-12 tanks through them, starting them was much easier but still required some heat to make it pop off in 3-4 pulls. By the time you run a gallon through it, it should start pretty good without the heat.

I do know mine don't like to start unless warmed a bit (even with many gallons through them) when it's cooler outside (<60F), so I usually heat them a bit in my 1:1 up to 85-90 on the floor with the heat on high. Then they fire right up and run all day.
 
lrpz28

thanks guys...you both make alot of sense..i have a pretty good idea of what i have to do now...again thank you so much...
 
want to thank you guys again...the advice i got was on point...did exactly what you both said and finally got the lrp broken in...wow I'm glad i bought that motor ...very satisfied...again its good to know that i have a place to come to when i have issues...
 
Keep an eye on your front main bearing. They have been known to die in a short while. Usually when they go, they can ruin the engine if the bearing blows apart on you. Makes the crank cut into the crank case and doesn't do your con-rod any favors. I haven't noticed any excess slop or leakage in either of mine. One of which is 4+ gallons the other is probably around 2.
 
Your welcome! My LRP had 4 gallons on it when I sold it. I never had to put bearings in it. I saw it later on with it's new owner around the 5 gallon mark still running like a top.
I do highly recommeend changing the front bearing at the two gallon mark and changing both at the 4 gallon mark to be safe. My buddy has one that tore up the rod at 5 gallons because he did not change the bearings.
 
Great advice, now here is some of my own. I bought a used LRP .28 and threw it into my Savage .25, not knowing the power that this motor has. Well after a very short while, I started to tear stuff up. Well the very first thing to go was the diffs, then that motor ate my diff cups. I replaced both diffs with parts from from a 5.9 XL. It has metal diff cups. Well long and short, before you replace your 4.6 with this motor, go ahead and strengthen up your drive train and chassis to handle the new engine. If you don't do this now, you will pay for it later. It was just like when I got my TMAXX it would be fun to run, but only for about 5 minutes and then something would break. My latest issue with my Savage is the Toe links, they are tired and worn and pop out, but besides that peachy. I recommend replacing the toe link and installing large washer to the securing bolts so you can atleast steer it back to you, if it ever happens again. Oh save some money and go to Tower Hobbies.
 
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