Lrp z.28 nitro engine

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Do you need to know if the length will fit or the pin into the cup?
 
Pin into cup..... I'm also looking into a 16.8 e maxx driveshaft I think it's close to the length I need.... Does anyone know of a company that could make me a custom cvd?
 
you could cut and shut a plastic driveshaft for the centre rear but for the front you may need to get a kit with a cup and dogbone bitd flm used to do it which would allow you to use a 4907 spec disc but you would have to do some hunting to find one these days I think
 
Would a plastic driveshaft hold up to the torque or would I be constantly replacing them.... I have been looking at 16.8 emaxx cvds on eBay looks to be from a Chinese mfg I'm waiting to hear back from them if the dimensions showed in their picture is true.... If so then that could my soloution
 
The bones you linked should fit your cups.

Your problem is going to be the front shaft.
You can use a plastic front shaft, but your going to either have to use the 4909 FOC or cut the output you have now.
All of the BB chassis were made before they came out with the grey trany, and long before the current pin brake disc design.

The easiest way to solve that if with a 57mm bone, a 6mm dr cup(UE or RCM type), and cut the front output shaft down and use the 4909 brake disc and hex.
Or you can use the 4900 FOC and 5mm dr cups and you don't need to cut anything, P/N are listed above.

For custom bones give onclebens a shout, his are not cheap, but are made to last.
http://maxxparts.forumactif.org/t9-custom-dogbones
 
Well guys I temporarily solved the drive shaft issues for the rear I took a 3.3 axle and switched the yoke on the wheel end of it... I then cut it down to fit... I'm kinda skeptical that it's going to hold up to the torque of the lrp but time will tell.... For the front I had to cut down the stock 3.3 shaft a lot to fit... That shaft is so short now it's not even funny there's literally a 1/2" of spline left on the shaft so I think that will be the first thing to fail after I put a tune on It...... About all that's holding me up now is engine mounts... I've tried two different sets now neither of them being tall enough to get the pull start off of the chassis so I said screw it and ordered a foot of 1 1/4x1 1/4" 6061aluminum and my friend who has a Bridgeport is going to machine some
 

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Well guys I finally got it all together.... I found a set of acncm engine mounts so that solved that issue.... I'm still running a rather fat tune on it and the thing is just a wheelie monster, it's crazy.... Surprisingly the plastic center Shafts are holding up pretty good so far.... I did strip out a wheel hex that goes on the axle and also the inside of the wheel itself stripped out.... Another problem I have been having is I'm having a hard time keeping the tires glued on the wheels.... So I'm thinking about getting bead locks possibly axial or the stock summit ones?... Overall though it was a slow trial and error to get this all together but well worth the wait..... Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their advice and suggestions
 

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glad to see its all done , the summit wheel /tires aren't beadlocks ,that ring just screws to the wheel to give it a beadlock look.
I would maybe look at some proline wheel and tire combos , I run trencher x's on my bb maxx and they hold up great.
 
Make sure it's all super clean and dry before you put the CA glue on
 
Alright I've seen those at my lhs, I currently am running bow ties on stock wheels that are painted so I'm sure that's a big part of my problem
 
most chassis kit come with matching braces , just check that they are included if buying 2nd hand ones.
gpm has some decent gear I haven't used their shocks but they alu hop up gear is sweet .
as mentioned before it will be a lot of trial and error ,a while back I built a bb maxx for my brother using a force .28 ,I used a fastlane ice chassis but half way through the build he lost interest and didn't want to send any more cash on it ,hence the force ,which is actually a decent engine for this truck btw. I had to reuse a lot of stuff and pay for a few things myself to get it finished to a standard I wasn't happy with.
breaking it in was fine but once I started to put a tune on it ,it constantly lunched stuff ,we did a std diff every 2nd tank until I pieced a bl diff together which held , I finally gave up when it snapped the output shaft I 3 spots and it has never been run since I fixed it over 2 years ago. one day I want to revisit it but my bro has long since given up on the hobby and I have way to many projects of my own.
one suprising thing is how the trans gars have held up to about 20 tanks and weren't new to start off with and it still has opti drive reverse which works lol

I don't know anything about BB chassis but I put A OS 21 IN my TMAX and had no problem doing it.
 
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I would love to see pictures of your set up because most would find this unlikely to do without a bb chassis or a lot of cutting I attempted this myself at first but quickly gave up and followed the route of many before me..... It took me over three months to peice mine together due to funds and simply finding bb parts that have long been discontinued
 
AI don,t have any pictures of it but it all in the motor mount they use to have a kit to put a big block in to a stock T Max. I think it sets the engine up and back from what I can remember.

Your car looks great all except fore one thing if you run those aluminum A arms and you drive it hard they will break. I use all plastic a arms on my T Max for that simple reason plastic is cheaper.
 
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So did you only run 4 shocks or 8... I beat mine pretty hard and haven't broke one yet but I'm sure I will eventually
 
the only os 21 engine that will fit the stock chassis is the os 21tm and that's because it designed to be a direct replacement for the 2.5/3.3 engine
 
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