Lrp z.28 nitro engine

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Banshee9o9

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i bought a new lrp z.28r spec r for my t maxx and I need to know what flywheel clutch and spur set up I should use. I cut the crankshaft off at the end of the threads and I just ordered an Ofna clutch nut part number 10091. I also ordered Ofna hyper 8 motor mounts, I'm quite aware that this will require a lot of customization for this to work... What I am unsure of though is what flywheel, clutch and bell and also spur set up I should use. Thanks any tips will be appreciated
 
do you have a big block chassis? it aint gonna fit without it or atleast a monoblock extension. easiest clutch kit to use would be a savage one but you will have to change the spur to a revo spec to get the correct pitch.
you may get it to work but its going to have to be converted to a 4 shock setup.
also you could use a savage header and pipe but its going to be tough to fit it without a bb chassis
 
Chassis is a 3.3 so a savage clutch bell and a revo spur are the same pitch? Can you explain what a mono bloxk extension. I'm guessing the reason of running only 4 shocks would be to clear the pull starter?
 
Forget about the monoblock,there going over 300 on ebay these days,you can snag a bb chassis for 50$...4 good proper shocks will cost ya the same if not more than a chassis.....go for a bb chassis man and make things much easier on yourself bud....forgot to mention,keep extra Trans parts on hand until you buy some rrp steel set,keeping your slipper a tad on the loose side will get ya through maybe more than a qaart
 
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For a bb chassis I must have the matching chassis braces right... I have 8 gpm piggybacks I'm not sure what everyone's opinion of those are
 
most chassis kit come with matching braces , just check that they are included if buying 2nd hand ones.
gpm has some decent gear I haven't used their shocks but they alu hop up gear is sweet .
as mentioned before it will be a lot of trial and error ,a while back I built a bb maxx for my brother using a force .28 ,I used a fastlane ice chassis but half way through the build he lost interest and didn't want to send any more cash on it ,hence the force ,which is actually a decent engine for this truck btw. I had to reuse a lot of stuff and pay for a few things myself to get it finished to a standard I wasn't happy with.
breaking it in was fine but once I started to put a tune on it ,it constantly lunched stuff ,we did a std diff every 2nd tank until I pieced a bl diff together which held , I finally gave up when it snapped the output shaft I 3 spots and it has never been run since I fixed it over 2 years ago. one day I want to revisit it but my bro has long since given up on the hobby and I have way to many projects of my own.
one suprising thing is how the trans gars have held up to about 20 tanks and weren't new to start off with and it still has opti drive reverse which works lol
 
Here is my latest dilemma I got an Ofna clutch nut, savage cb and savage integy clutch shoes and flywheel.... Problem was the clutch nut was too long, when put together the bell was not sitting flush with flywheel so I thought I could grind it down enough to gain enough clearance... I was wrong and was not able to grind enough down taking too much so now there's a small hole through the clutch nut.... The Ofna nut is just too long.... What other clutch nuts should I try? Anyone who has an lrp z.28r in a t maxx please let me know what set up is working for you

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What you need to do is buy a new crank(#38238) for it, toss the integy clutch/flywheel, and put a regular BB flywheel/clutch combo on it.
A Savage BB clutch/flywheel should work.

What BB chassis are you going to use, the 3.3 4907 chassis is not going to work without a lot of hacking.
 
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you can get a savage clutch kit from an ebay chop shop such as dollarhobbies for under $20 that's what I'm using and its good as gold.
 
I would really like to use the 4907 chassis just because all the bb chassis currently on eBay do not have the chassis braces with them... So looks like I'm gonna need to buy another crank then that's a bummer I'm wishing I wouldn't have cut it now... I wrongfully assumed that would've been mandatory
 
 
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So I'm looking at two different chassis on eBay one ue super maxx which is 11 1/8 long the other is an Ancm which is 11 1/4 long both include braces the ue is 165 the other is 65 I'm probaly going with the cheaper one.... My 4907 chassis is 11" long with only a 1/4" difference between all of these so what is the difference between all of these... I messaged the seller and he said both chassis will work with my lrp.... I just don't see how an uncut pilot shaft is going to fit?
 
you may have to trim the pilot shaft down a bit but it depends on how much you cut off yours , get the clutch kit and try ,you will have to probably use a screw in the end of the crank to retain the bell instead of the traxxas style c clip
 
I cut the shaft flush at the end of threads so I need to try to find a new clutch nut I already tried an Ofna clutch nut but it wouldn't work with the savage clutch bell as I posted in earlier posts
 
So I placed a bid on a bb chassis, braces and exhaust hopefully I get it.... I also ordered a new Ofna clutch nut since I can't find another brand I'm also going to try an Ofna clutch bell with the nut.... Another thing I'm going to try is moving the tranny forward on the 4907 chassis and shortening the front driveshaft
 
The BB chassis out there were made before Traxxas came out withe the grey Revo spec trany, the 4907 trans needs to be modded to work on the BB chassis, as pulled the brake assembly sticks out to far, so you need either UE/RCM drive cups and cut the front of the output shaft down to use the brake disc below, or use the 4909 FOC & parts listed below for it to work.

If/when you get a BB chassis, you will need to get a #5195 FOC, #5164 Brake disc, #4966X hex, #4927X yoke for the plastic sliders or #5163 (or UE/RC Monster 5mm cup)5mm drive cup if using dog bones.

If you have any questions doing this, let me know.
 
Thanks man will do... I'm hoping I win the auction
 
Well guys I won both auctions which includes an acncm chassis with braces, a center skid plate, and exhaust which looks to be off a 4.6 savage.... The other auction was for big block engine mounts so I should everything by Friday I'm hoping so I can start the mock up.... I bought a set of mip center Cvds used that said they were for a 3.3 however that wasn't true they're for a .15 and 2.5 so I'm gonna save those for another build... I also got my new Ofna clutch nut which the savage cb is not long enough for so I ordered an Ofna hobao 15t cb
 
Well I got my bb chassis which I think is an acncm? I'm not sure if I have it together right? It's looking like I'm gonna need a 4.5 or 104mm rear driveshaft I haven't measured the front yet..... I know this was designed to use the .15-2.5 trans which I do have one but I would like to avoid it as I wanna save it for another build
 

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