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lrp break in

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I used the Heat cycle method on my LRP .30, and it's a beast man. There is a thread on here explaining the heat cycle method.
 
BillyC74 said:
Uncalled for.
Click to expand...

Yes, your post is un-called for. Stop being a troll.

I was in a hurry so here it is in a nutshell:
Fire it up, make sure it runs rich and make sure it runs warm. About 180-200 degrees is sufficient. You want to run it in this warm and slightly rich state as much as possible for at least 3 tanks without stopping. After that you can simply just take it easy on the engine for a few more tanks and it'll be done.

The heat cycle method forces your engine to break in, because of the tightness that a new engine has when it's cold. That's rough on the conrod, which also needs to break in. If you keep it warmed up it won't have to go through so much stress during it's first few tanks.
 
2revo1maxx said:
Yes, your post is un-called for. Stop being a troll.

I was in a hurry so here it is in a nutshell:
Fire it up, make sure it runs rich and make sure it runs warm. About 180-200 degrees is sufficient. You want to run it in this warm and slightly rich state as much as possible for at least 3 tanks without stopping. After that you can simply just take it easy on the engine for a few more tanks and it'll be done.

The heat cycle method forces your engine to break in, because of the tightness that a new engine has when it's cold. That's rough on the conrod, which also needs to break in. If you keep it warmed up it won't have to go through so much stress during it's first few tanks.
Click to expand...

That's why you pre heat the engine before starting it up my friend. I would never start any new nitro engine without pre heating to op temp first. I have been doing this method for 15 years and get at least 7 gallons or more out of my engines. Never have had any problems what so ever.
 
Last edited:
Yeah I forgot to mention pre-heating.....But why keep shutting it off and re-starting then?..Makes no sense at all.
 

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