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Lrp .32 temperatures

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Bmk10

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During my break in today I tried keeping the temps between 200-250...motor is pretty much broken in now and I'm doing my best to keep it around 250 however the temps still seem to be increasing and the truck is definitely not to lean ....it might even be a tad rich......big thick cloud of smoke comes strait out......how high should my temps be I guess is my question?
 
checked for air leaks? if u think its too rich have u richened it right up till it starts affecting performance and then lean it back from there?
 
I would first do a basic check of your fuel lines, tank, and exhaust etc.

If you're guaging fuel mixture by smoke only, then you're probably running it lean. Start by richening the hsn until you know it's too rich, then lean it back to performance little by little. When in doubt, go rich, not lean.

If that doesn't help, try closing the idle gap a little bit. You can set most engines by using a small paper clip for the gap. I'm assuming you haven't lowered the idle yet? You'll have to fine tune your low speed at this point, and here's a great pair of articles to help you do all this.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94326
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76808
 
REVO-5309 said:
checked for air leaks? if u think its too rich have u richened it right up till it starts affecting performance and then lean it back from there?
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure all air leaks are sealed....... I used some high temp silicone on carb and backplate when I first got it ......... And yea after the the break in was done it was definierly too rich cause I could hear it bogging ( was around 190 now so I leaned it out a tad and it started climbing to around 250 and up and up so I let it idle and it'd cool back down around 230) ....... I mean is 250 like the max temp you wanna be at?

---------- Post added at 4:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:27 PM ----------
2revo1maxx said:
I would first do a basic check of your fuel lines, tank, and exhaust etc.

If you're guaging fuel mixture by smoke only, then you're probably running it lean. Start by richening the hsn until you know it's too rich, then lean it back to performance little by little. When in doubt, go rich, not lean.

If that doesn't help, try closing the idle gap a little bit. You can set most engines by using a small paper clip for the gap. I'm assuming you haven't lowered the idle yet? You'll have to fine tune your low speed at this point, and here's a great pair of articles to help you do all this.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94326
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76808
Click to expand...
Okay, I'm pretty sure everything is sealed up but I can double check again........ Maybe I just need to fool with the high and low speed a little untill I can get it steady around 250?
I mean the motor was givin out awesome power..... Wheelies like crazy and it wasn't hesitating or anything........ Maybe it's a tad to lean?
 
Yeah don't mess with the low yet. Get it warmed up and richen the hsn until it loses some power, then lean it back in just a little at a time. A well tuned engine will always seem rich until it warms up.
For the low end needle, it should idle for at least 10 seconds without loading up real bad. Did you read the 2 links?
 
Yea I read both of them man! I think my idle is too high ..........cause if I hit the brake and fully close the carb while it's idling the engine will load up and act as if it wants to die.....assuming this is the problem......I'll see what I can do tomorrow! Those two ads are a big help..........should I put my carb at 1.0mm or .5mm? Or just play with both and see which runs better??
Also Is there supposed to be a spring or rubber band and around the carb to keep it closed when you are off the throttle ?
 
Okay that could be a problem as well
Weird how mine didn't come with one
Okay well I'll try and see if I have an old one for it

---------- Post added at 9:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 9:10 AM ----------

I'm gonna go fire it up again in a few hours .......hopefully I all goes well
So Ill try to get temps to stay around 230?
 
Yeah, if it's about 70 or 80°f outside then 220-250 is good.....but again, you should tune for performance, not temps.
 
high idle can keep your engnie from coolling down all so if your tune is not right (should be fairly easy to tune after a full gal) go back to break in setting's HSN 5.50 LSN 5.25 and go from there , got about a half gal on my LRP 32 , had bad mid tank lean in the XL , making it hard to tune , I ended up putting on my 2.00 doller Ofna Ultra LX2 145cc tank and put a couple pieces sponge from the sheets that came with my picco ,tested sponge by soaking in nitro for 90 day's , added fuel filter just in case , set needle's for break in took it out and run her and tuned it in a bit ran great , 90 degress out side the highest temp I hit was 220 and pulling sec gear wheelies ,fliped it a few time's and did some 50 to 100 foot lid skids LOL and thats be easy on the throttle do to not being fully broke in , even with the 053 pipe its to fast to controll , I all so have no return spring on the carb and I have no prob with it , with a good tune at idle your temp should go down 1 to 2 degress every 4 or 5 seconds
 
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I would put a return spring on it if it didn't come with one. Mine came with one and if you look in you're owners manual it will show that there is supposed to be one on it. You may not have problems with it yet but if you lose signal with the trottle wide open. Say like you have a bad crash and the rx battery comes unplugged then bye bye truck. The return spring is there to insure that it will always bring the truck back to idle. I have had some really bad crashes that have caused my rx battery to come unplugged hell I've had some crashes that have thrown the rx battery completely out of the truck.
 
cwal1774 said:
I would put a return spring on it if it didn't come with one. Mine came with one and if you look in you're owners manual it will show that there is supposed to be one on it. You may not have problems with it yet but if you lose signal with the trottle wide open. Say like you have a bad crash and the rx battery comes unplugged then bye bye truck. The return spring is there to insure that it will always bring the truck back to idle. I have had some really bad crashes that have caused my rx battery to come unplugged hell I've had some crashes that have thrown the rx battery completely out of the truck.
Click to expand...

now that you put it like that a spring sound like a good idea LOL , I'll take your advice as well and put a spring on all my truck's better to be safe then sorry
 
Just make sure the spring is strong enough to push your servo back to neutral when you shut the truck power off. I would not go back to factory settings either.
 
Yea, for now I just have a rubber band, but I have a spring on its way ........ Yea I'm not sure what's totally going on..... Because I have a dx2s with telemetry , for example it'll be reading about 270 but my temp gun shows usually around 20 degree cooler
Which one should I go by?
Also , I had it out the other day and I was tryin to tune it up ( trying not to let it get above 270 on the telemetry )
Anyways once I'd shut it off ..... I can't get it to fire back up
Almost like the engine would have to cool all the way down then it'd fire up ......... Am I running It too lean??
 
Throw the telemetry sensor away, I had one on my xxl and it was way off.
As for not starting, it is from being hot, but that does not mean it's getting too hot. What it means is your carb is hot enough to boil the fuel back into the line. I have a Sirio that does that, and I have to prime it 2 or 3 times before the carb will stop boiling fuel and allow it to startup again. That is the big downfall with aluminum carbs. They work well while they're running, but can boil fuel after shutdown. Have you tried the old spit test on this engine?
 
2revo1maxx said:
Just make sure the spring is strong enough to push your servo back to neutral when you shut the truck power off. I would not go back to factory settings either.
Click to expand...

if your out of tune and not sure were your needle's are at Y would you not go back to factory setting were you no its rich and just lean them onto you got a good tune , I've been doing it that way sence the 80's all we's worked great for me and never lost a engine
 
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2revo1maxx said:
Throw the telemetry sensor away, I had one on my xxl and it was way off.
As for not starting, it is from being hot, but that does not mean it's getting too hot. What it means is your carb is hot enough to boil the fuel back into the line. I have a Sirio that does that, and I have to prime it 2 or 3 times before the carb will stop boiling fuel and allow it to startup again. That is the big downfall with aluminum carbs. They work well while they're running, but can boil fuel after shutdown. Have you tried the old spit test on this engine?
Click to expand...

Yea I'll just stuck with my gun then..... Well that makes sense then I was around 250 when it'd happen I believe and I never even thought to reprime it
To be honest I've never even heard of the old spit test.... Haha sorry this is my first break in in a while
 
rcaddic said:
if your out of tune and not sure were your needle's are at Y would you not go back to factory setting were you no its rich and just lean them onto you got a good tune , I've been doing it that way sence the 80's all we's worked great for me and never lost a engine
Click to expand...

Because factory settings might not be rich, especially if it's cool outside. All a person really needs to do is richen the needles and try again.
 

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