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LRP .28 spec 3 Trouble starting

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S

shadycuz

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Hey everyone,

I just recently got a buggy with a LRP .28 on it. I bought a starter box for it and everything. When it starts, it either wants to go all out or die. It does not have the stock carb on it. It has a HPI carb with purple on it. Should I just put the LRP carb back on? Because I don't know the stock settings for the HPI? I know part of the problem is the tuning needles and the other part is the throttle linkage. I will work on this tonight or tomorrow but I wanted to ask for people's opinions.

Should I be worried about tearing up the starter box? When it does start it takes off full speed before I can take pressure off the buggy to let the spring lift it off the starting wheel. The other thing I noticed was their is a small amount of fluid around the starting wheel after I stopped trying to start it. I didn't notice any on the chassis, I know sometimes a front bearing leaks, is this what I'm seeing?

Thanks,
Levi
 
Put the LRP carb back on, but leak check it first. Inspect all the O-rings for damage. Set the carb to factory specs, then turn the LSN in 1/4 turn. This should put it in the ballpark. Use a McCoy 59 or #8 plug in it. No short O.S. style plugs.
I do not know of any HPI carbs that fit the LRP, so I think that is the issue.
If the engine has over two gallons of use it is time for a new front bearing.
 
When you say leak check your talking about air leaks? I'll check the engine and the new carb while it is out. I'm not sure about how much gas has been though the engine, will the small leak hurt just to get it started?

Thanks,
Levi
 
I took the pinch screw off and the carb will twist side to side, but I can't seem to pull it off. I worried about breaking the carb. Is their some secret to this?
 
Generally, just twisting and pulling wiggles them out.

I have read that a sportwerks carb calms the engine down and tunes better than the LRP carb. Never heard of anyone proffering an HPI carb over any other carb in any engine though. I'm on the fence about the sportwerks... I have two LRP28S3's and one runs great, the other is a bit more muddy in the middle.
 
Loosen the pinch bolt but leave it in. Tap the head of the bolt firmly. This should be all it takes to release the carb.
 
I ended up getting it out. Still having trouble with the engine. I got it to run but had the idle set too low and it would die. So I went to grab a screw driver to change idle and then the engine wouldn't start again lol, I'm going to work on it tomorrow.

Any one know what the stock settings are? I thought for the low speed needle it would be flush but the manual says 2.5 turns and for the high speed 3.5? I'll try these tomorrow with a high idle to see if she will run. Compression is good, no air leaks except for a slight front bearing and I'm at stock settings with new plug.

I hope she fires up tomorrow.

Thanks,
Levi
 
2 1/2 on the LSN, start at 2 turns out. If it acts like it wants to flood or fires up and the idle instantly starts dropping..lean the LSN another 1/8th turn. Leave the HSN around 3 1/2 turns out until you get the LSN set.
Preheat the engine with a hair dryer or heat gun before starting it. It will help the engine idle and make starting easier.
 
I have a Sportwerks carb on my LRP and it helped with tuning quite a bit. I wasn't planning on using it, but my LHS repaired my carb popping off issue with a new carb since the plastic sleeve for the LRP was mangled I guess and he had none in stock. Been running fine since the carb swap, but I do need to seal the engine still as I think I may have a tiny air leak somewhere.
 
Hey guys,

Those settings worked great. The LSN needs some more work, it really sluggisg but I didn't have time to tune it. About 5 mins of running and all but 1 motor mount screw vibrated out. I guess I'll have to tighten them a little more and maybe loctite them. Thanks for every ones help. Are these things really loud or is it me?

Thanks,
Levi
 
Yes they are loud, glad you got it going. Loctite all metal to metal screws before your next run.
 

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