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ohmygahitscoby

Hardcore RCTalk User
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Location
San Jose
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Hey guys, I have a few questions about my Savage 25.

First off, what does locking the differentials do using a spool? I know when drifting, it helps swing the rear out, but I'm not sure on off-roading. Should I do it on both the front and rear or just the rear?

Second, what did you guys use to do the mid-tank mod? I know Squirrelod on Youtube is making a tutorial now, but it's not finished yet.

Third, what flywheel and shoes combo do you guys recommend? I sold mine to Racer 1966 for $4 shipped, bad idea. They were Integy though.

Fourth, what TVP's do you guys recommend that are black for the Savage 25. I don't want CF because it'll scratch and ruin everything.

Fifth, I have a metal spur gear, but the problem is that too of the teeth are chipped a little bit. Is it okay to still use it?

Thanks!
-Coby
 
Last edited:
The spool, due to tire size, is more for offroading. I don't recommend it, as it cuts the practically non-existent turning radius down to nothing. You're much better off to pack the diffs with some high-weight diff silicone.
 
Oh okay, thanks BOUTCH and Heartbreak!

I have to add one more question I forgot. It'll be #5.
 
First - locking the rear diff only will work the same as the on road car only amplified a bit. It also helps in a lot of bashing situations where you're almost high centered, it gets you out of some tough spots. Plaidfish recommended the front only for racing, said it really helped in cornering but I haven't tried it. I also haven't tried having both locked. I have my rear diff locked and love it, it suits my driving style.

Second - Can't help you on the tank mod, haven't felt the need for it enough to do it yet.

Third - :D Couldn't pass a deal like that but I don't have any probs with what I've been running, currently Ofna stock replacements.


Fourth - Why are you wanting to change tvps? If you just want black have them powdercoated. If you're wanting to lower the cog then swap to the X tvps or get FLM replacement X tvps. Or go all out and get the extended and lower cog FLM tvps.

Fifth - If it's not completely missing teeth, or several consecutive teeth that are chipped, just make sure you smooth off the chipped area and have a good mesh and you should be good to go.
 
Oh okay, thanks Racer! I'll probably see how locking the rear feels for me, if I don't like it, I'll just sell it. But I can do a different method of locking (paper towel method).

I haven't thought about just getting them powder coated, great idea! Do I need to deanodize any of the purple on it, or should it be fine if I just send it out for coating?

I'll also smooth out the chipped area. It's not very chipped like no more tooth, but it's like 3/4 of a tooth is still there.
 
Hmm.... never heard of the paper towel method. I have heard of and used the Jb Weld method.

The purple will have to come off either by you or the coater.

Be careful smoothing the chips, just get any burrs and leave as much tooth as possible.
 
For the paper towel method, you just stuff lots of paper towels into your differentials so that the differential will be almost impossible to move. There is a tightening method using fuel tubing also, I did it on the front of my TT01.

I'll probably just be deanodizing it off myself. It's easy for me. Do you know how much powder coating would cost?

There's not much burrs, just some sanding or Dremeling and they should be gone.

Thanks again!
 
The local shop here told me $50 for about every metal part on my truck, but that's with me doing the cleaning/prep work. Also he wasn't going to mask anything off, so it would require some work(filing,drilling etc.)to make everthing fit properly again. The coating is fairly thick so scew holes and locating tabs could be affected.
 
Oh, I never thought about that also. I'll check some place where they can do powder coating for a cheap price.
 
I'd steer away from sticking paper towels in the diffs... for bashing, running OFNA 50K diff oil works really well. It gives you decent power to the wheel on the ground when the other is in the air, but it doesn't lock the diff, just gives you strong positraction. Locking the diffs can have a negative affect on axles by twisting them and snapping them. The heavy oil gives you the benefits of a locked diff, but will give under strain.
 
Oh okay. Thanks!

Anybody know the best flywheel+shoes combo? I was really thinking about the Dynamite shoes that are long-lasting.
 
Depending on your gearing and engine, the HPI teflon shoes hold up pretty well. It's what I've ran in all my rigs for the past 4 years. I also have been liking the LST* flywheel because you can take it off without taking the shoes off. I wish I had remembered that when I was at the LHS last or I would have picked one up for my savage.

These are the HPI shoes I run: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HPI87151

They work ok on this flywheel:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HPI86271

But I proffer this flywheel:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB3301
 
Hmm, that other flywheel, the one you prefer, has a weird design. Will it work on a Picco .26? It looks like it will, but I'm not sure because it has that little tubular piece in the middle of it.
 
That tubular piece raises the flywheel nut to be a hair above the shoes so you can take off the flywheel without messing with the shoes/springs. The flywheel nut is thinner than normal, so between it and the raised collar, it's very similar to "normal" flywheel/nut combos.

It's worked for me on the following in both savages/lst*/1/8 buggy: LRP28S3, OS21RG, XTM24.7, Axial 28S1, Mach427, Losi M26SS.
 

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