Loosing Compression!!!

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REVO-5309

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so my trx 3.3 motor is starting to loose a bit of compression. i pulled the motor apart and the rear bearing is getting a bit loose and the brash bushing on the rod got a bit loose. so for now iv turned the rod around. when i went to put it all back together i cracked the carb where the HSN goes in when i done it up (bit too tight) when i put it all back together tho it seems there is less compression that before. any reason for this and or will running it once i get a new carb fix this? just before i pulled it apart the low end started to loose power, wasn't doing wheelies apart from when it was just started from being cold. as it got warn it stopped doing wheelies. would that have something to do with compression?

with this in mind, deciding weather i rebuild the trx 3.3 with new piston, sleeve, rod, carb and bearings. or to just get a picco .26 jl red dot...
 
What rod did you turn around, the conrod? If so turn it back around, it has a tiny hole in it that allows the fuel to flow through for lubrication. In my opinion it's not worth it to rebuild the 3.3, by time you replace what SHOULD be replaced during a rebuild you've spend more than what you can get a new one for. I would either get the Picco or grab a new 3.3 and a different carb. You could also look at the Dynamite .19, for $110 its a pretty decent budget engine thats easy to tune and seems to run pretty well.
 
well if i get another 3.3 ill be buying at action and aim around the 100-110$ mark. and i can get a picco .26 jl red dot for $200 + 50ish for mount and shipping. and for the mean time use the factory pipe and clutch till it breaks, and when i get another 100-150 together ill get a pipe and clutch for it.

---------- Post added at 10:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:11 PM ----------

and yes the conrod. seemed to have a bit of play in the brash bush and when i turned it around it was gone basically. can u remove the bush and put it in backwards or do i just need a new rod?
 
If the play disappeared when you flipped the rod 180° that indicates the bushing and/or the crank journal has worn unevenly.
If you were to run it like that (which you shouldn’t) it would just wear out rather quickly.
If you have a press to remove and install the bushing they can be replaced, but you wouldn’t want to flip and re-use a worn bushing. A new rod is the best bet, if the crank journal is worn/out of round it needs replaced also.
 
If the play disappeared when you flipped the rod 180° that indicates the bushing and/or the crank journal has worn unevenly.
If you were to run it like that (which you shouldn’t) it would just wear out rather quickly.
If you have a press to remove and install the bushing they can be replaced, but you wouldn’t want to flip and re-use a worn bushing. A new rod is the best bet, if the crank journal is worn/out of round it needs replaced also.

Where can you purchase the bushings if one were to replace them? Or is it a DIY fab job?
 
yeh the play dissapeared. I'm thinking either a entire new trx3.3 or the picco .26 jl. just gotta find some funds now. and to make it worse a BMW M3 nicked me yesterday (my fault technically but he drove past me while i was trying to park and i got him as i was pulling back out to have another shot at the park, long story) so i have some insurance to pay out now.

so i got an email back about my 2 parts to get it going again (bearings, carb) and total comes to $50. for an extra 70-80 i could prob get a new trx 3.3 motor. and for an extra 210ish i could have the picco with mount.... ill just have to play it out for a couple days and see what happens i think....


but with my first question, will the compression loss affect the low end power? top end doesn't seem to be too bad still.
 

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