I'm new to this awesome sport and just bought a used Tmaxx 5 tanks run through it, so he said. Now please excuse the terminology but I'll try and explain my issue. There is some play, front to back and up and down when you push the rear axles between the A arms with your finger. This does not seem right to me. Also buddy said he put a posi rearend in this thing is that an aftermarket part or what? Any takers?????? :thankyou:
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Looking for Some Diff Advice?
- Thread starter Bluerider
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beason
Bash, Fix, Repeat..
sounds like bad bearings in the hub carriers.. do all of them do it or just one or two?
a "posi" rearend ?? ask him again.. did he lock it? or put in thick oil? that will help us explain better..
good luck with your maxx.. and enjoy the hobby.. you picked the best sight on the web for it.
a "posi" rearend ?? ask him again.. did he lock it? or put in thick oil? that will help us explain better..
good luck with your maxx.. and enjoy the hobby.. you picked the best sight on the web for it.
Yeah, now I get what your saying. It could be your bearings in the diff for the ends of the diff are shot or the ones in the carriers (the knuckle thats on the tire end of the arms).
The t-maxx is known for weak carrier bearings. I went through a lot of those. I also went through quite a few of the differential bearings.
Here's a parts explosion for the diff. The bearings I'm talking about are part # 4612:
Here's the explosion for the axle carrier. The bearings the fry here are part # 4614:
As for the diff, I had posted a link to what I thought it was in your other thread: Maximizer Ultra Diff It's aftermarket if it's this thing.
The t-maxx is known for weak carrier bearings. I went through a lot of those. I also went through quite a few of the differential bearings.
Here's a parts explosion for the diff. The bearings I'm talking about are part # 4612:
Here's the explosion for the axle carrier. The bearings the fry here are part # 4614:
As for the diff, I had posted a link to what I thought it was in your other thread: Maximizer Ultra Diff It's aftermarket if it's this thing.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #4
There is lots of play where differential output yokes go through the housings. I found Traxxas web site and printed off the parts list and diagrams. Thanks guys for advice I am trying to learn this stuff. Hey is there any online manuals on how to take these things apart and put them back together. I only have a owners manual the 48 page one?
beason
Bash, Fix, Repeat..
my buddy had the prob.. the diff was worn out.. you can get a new diff on ebay for about 30 bux.. its about the same you would spend for a rebuild kit. oh and try eddys sight for manuals.. www.rcdocuments.com
bustedgears
Hardcore RCTalk User
The easiest way to get the diffs out is to:
1) remove the front or rear wheels (which ever your working on)
2) remove the skid plate
3) remove the screws from ONE of the bulk heads
4) remove the screws from the shock tower that attach to the bulk heads
5) turn the loose side away from the diff and pull it out
Diff:
1) take out the set screws on all the driveshafts and remove
2) remove the T retainer (it should just twist off) Part #4980
3) remove the two remaining screws
4) separate the two halves
5) remove the ring gear assembly
6) remove the four screws holding the bevel and spider gears
7) separate the black housing from the ring gear
8) clean the gears with varsol or any other degreaser
9) inspect all the gears and replace worn ones
10) reassemble the ring gear assembly and check for play in the gears
11) if you're unhappy with the play in the differential shim the spider gears to take it to a minimal..... Do not remove all the play, rather make them smooth and close, but not locked. Excessive pressure on the gears will wear much faster.
12) install the pinion gear and reassemble the full differential.
13) check for play in the ring/pinion gears and shim the pinion gear if necessary
14) reassemble and run your truck.
1) remove the front or rear wheels (which ever your working on)
2) remove the skid plate
3) remove the screws from ONE of the bulk heads
4) remove the screws from the shock tower that attach to the bulk heads
5) turn the loose side away from the diff and pull it out
Diff:
1) take out the set screws on all the driveshafts and remove
2) remove the T retainer (it should just twist off) Part #4980
3) remove the two remaining screws
4) separate the two halves
5) remove the ring gear assembly
6) remove the four screws holding the bevel and spider gears
7) separate the black housing from the ring gear
8) clean the gears with varsol or any other degreaser
9) inspect all the gears and replace worn ones
10) reassemble the ring gear assembly and check for play in the gears
11) if you're unhappy with the play in the differential shim the spider gears to take it to a minimal..... Do not remove all the play, rather make them smooth and close, but not locked. Excessive pressure on the gears will wear much faster.
12) install the pinion gear and reassemble the full differential.
13) check for play in the ring/pinion gears and shim the pinion gear if necessary
14) reassemble and run your truck.
About all you will find for a "manual" is the parts explosions from the traxxas website. It's an RTR so they don't give you "full" instructions on how to put it together or take it apart.
- Thread starter
- #9
Hey I took it all apart right after the last post I put up and guess what I figured out how to do it exactly as "Bustedgears" explained! It sure looks confusing until you dig into it. I bagged all parts in groups and cleaned everything really good with solvent and air. I found that the bearings that hold the half shafts steady are beat, I mean really beat. I found one somewhat intact and only remnants of the other. It has a spool posi diff and it had so much play that I think the "big gear wasn't engaged on the pinion gear?? Anyways I am getting all new bearings for both front and rear diffs on Thursday.
How much play is acceptable on the U-joint assembly on the half shafts. The holes where the little pins connect to the U joint are ovalled out a bit and produce some play also the splined half shafts are twisted, should this concern me much. 5 tanks my !@# !
Oh yeah while I got you experts online here and possibly still watching this post, it also has a 5 cell NiCad Reciecver Batt pack with a 7.2V style connector for charging. I have a slow and fast charger I use for my 7.2V Pack will these chargers do the trick for the 5 cell reciever pack?
How much play is acceptable on the U-joint assembly on the half shafts. The holes where the little pins connect to the U joint are ovalled out a bit and produce some play also the splined half shafts are twisted, should this concern me much. 5 tanks my !@# !
Oh yeah while I got you experts online here and possibly still watching this post, it also has a 5 cell NiCad Reciecver Batt pack with a 7.2V style connector for charging. I have a slow and fast charger I use for my 7.2V Pack will these chargers do the trick for the 5 cell reciever pack?
HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
I'd replace the half-shafts while you have it apart; a package only runs about $7.50, if I remember right (been a long time since I've bought a pack), and is good for at least one end of the truck.
If your charger can charge at about .5 amps, you should be fine. Anything higher than that, and you risk overheating the pack.
The Maxx only comes with an exploded view (like the shots posted above), and a 'quick start' guide that covers break-in, and not much else. The exploded view is about as close to an assembly manual as Traxxas wants a person to have. I think FastEddy's site has that posted, but I'm not sure.
If your charger can charge at about .5 amps, you should be fine. Anything higher than that, and you risk overheating the pack.
The Maxx only comes with an exploded view (like the shots posted above), and a 'quick start' guide that covers break-in, and not much else. The exploded view is about as close to an assembly manual as Traxxas wants a person to have. I think FastEddy's site has that posted, but I'm not sure.
- Thread starter
- #11
Got my parts and installed only to notice after that one of the ykes on the front drive shaft is cracked, !@#$% Anyways getting that tommorrow. with the new bearings installed and diff housing the play is gone on the rear but there is a small amount on the front still. I think it will be OK for now. Talk about frustrating had the thing a week now and haven't been able to run it yet. Plus the weather sucks about 8 below 0 and 5" of snow!
Oh yeah when the Tmaxx is sitting on the ground should the slipper clutch spin freely? I just put new friction pegs in that as there were none.
Oh yeah when the Tmaxx is sitting on the ground should the slipper clutch spin freely? I just put new friction pegs in that as there were none.
Do yourself a favor while you have sub running temps and tear that whole thing apart....clean it and check every stinking part as well.....it's a shame it's your first nitro or this would also be the perfect time to beef it up a lil bit as well, but get the stock version going first....download the exploded views and go to town man......you'll be much happier in th elong run...I tear every used RC down and rebuild it just tosee what's wrong w/ it.....it's rare you get a fully functioning Ready to Rock used RC.....
bustedgears
Hardcore RCTalk User
Plaidfish said:
Same exact thing here. Before I even start it, I tear it down to pieces.
- Thread starter
- #14
Basically have done that now. I am thinking of the FOC conversion as well. The tranny looks good, both diffs redone, replaced all striped screws and really what else is there? I must say it was really clean already so it was looked after somewhat. I did run it last night just to see and it ran great ! I am going to adjust all settings on suspension and camber toe in/out etc then wait for good weather.