Lets discuss the heat cycle method...

[godale03]

Hey guys,

I have read, and heard of, and talked to others about the heat cycle method. How exactly does the heat cycle method work? I was reading a document that was posted in one of my other threads describing the heat cycle method. It makes since... sort of. How do you adjust the needles so that the mixture is only slightly rich? I like the idea of only having to run the engine about an hour and it is "Broken in". It makes it much easier to get to the track. How exactly does this method differ from the rest of the other methods out there? I hope I am making since.... I just want to make sure that when I start to break in my almost $300 mill I know exactly what I am doing. Is this method really the prerfered way? I just figured I would put this out there and get some opinions on the subject. Thanks guys.

Tom

 

[NCNitro]

I just finished doing the heat cycle method on the WS7II in my PCR Pro. It actually takes longer than the old school method, although you only run about 3-4 min at a time, but then have to wait for the mill to cool completely back to ambient temp before you can run the next cycle through it. Also make sure the piston is at bdc when it is cooling, you dont want the engine to cool off with the piston pinched at the top of the sleeve.

Here is an article that was posted at another rc forum, but was taken from RC Driver magazine you might find interesting...

Heat Cycle break in.

 

[ImBroken]

Here's the Heat Cycle method that I used..
Heat Cycle Method

 

[NvNitro]

TJ..You might need to re run that , it's kinda blurry on the thread you just posted. Can't read it.

 

[godale03]

The reason I posted this was for a couple of reasons. One, is I would like to see what the general consensus is, and also to find out exactly how to do it. I would like to give it a shot and just want to go through the pros and cons. That way not only would I learn, but whoever else is out there wondering the same thing. The articles are helpfull but vague. How lean is slightly rich? Also if I get this right, you run for a couple of minutes, let the cylinder sit at BDC until cool? Now once it is cool you repeat the steps. Now do you lean anything out at this time? Also are you still on the same tank of fuel for the entire break in? Thanks guys.

Tom

 

[ImBroken]

TJ..You might need to re run that , it's kinda blurry on the thread you just posted. Can't read it.

It's just condensed. You need to open it up with a picture/photo program and zoom in a bit.

 

[Dooley]

I will give this a try on my new OS .30 in my CRT and report back!

 

[olds97_lss]

I'm doing that one with my new OS 18TM in my revo. I've done the heatup/cool down about 10 times so far. I haven't started leaning it out yet though... I've only gone through about 4 125cc tanks. Although, the last 3 times I've run it, I've run about 8 minutes before shutting it down. During the running, I'd slowly roll the throttle up to WOT on about a 5 second count. Then I'd let it wind down, turn around, do the same thing...

I'm not sure when to start leaning it out though. It doesn't really clear it's throat on WOT yet. Temps vary from 200-220 (after I wrapped the head with a paper towel). It's only been about 55-60F here, so I needed the heat kept in a little more.

 

[godale03]

One thing I have learned is that there doesn't seem to be an exact science to breaking in a mill. It seems everyone has a bit different stratagy, or take on the subject. I have always broken in my mill the way Traxxas has you break in the Tmaxx. I just start with the rig on the ground and then work through the throttle slowly each tank eventually making it up to full throttle by tank 7 or 8. I often repeat some tanks a few times, but according to the article that can be hard on the mill. So I am still a bit confused on exactly how to impliment the heat cycle method. It appears that most of us here as well have the same problem. Thanks for the all the help guys. It is still foggy, but not as much as it was before. I guess I will just have to fuddle through it.

Tom

 

[rocknbil]

. . . How lean is slightly rich?

I would define this as enriching the mixture to the point where the performance begins to drop off.

Now once it is cool you repeat the steps. Now do you lean anything out at this time?

As you'e getting close to the end of your breakin you may begin leaning out for performance.

Also are you still on the same tank of fuel for the entire break in?

Well, I usually use full tanks between cooling periods.

 

[godale03]

I would define this as enriching the mixture to the point where the performance begins to drop off.


As you'e getting close to the end of your breakin you may begin leaning out for performance.


Well, I usually use full tanks between cooling periods.

Ok... now this is starting to make a bit more sense........

So you start out by setting your needles to a slightly rich setting and then start in 3 minute bursts and then letting the car sit at BDC until it reaches ambient air temps. Then you fill the tank back up and start the process again. Then as you go along you continue to lean the mixture out and you increase the amount of throttle input until you are at full throttle runs. After this you are broken in? Are you still looking for temps around 200 to 220? Oh and one more question... do you run with the lid on or off?

Thanks Rocknbil

Tom

 

[NCNitro]

You got it now, lol. As far as lid or no lid, I ran mine with no lid for easy access, but I had the head wrapped in aluminum to keep the temps in the 200 degree range. I would also preheat my engine to about 180 before even starting it, it made starting easier and got my temps in the ideal range for the entire three minutes. The wait for the cool down is what really sucked, lol.

 

[godale03]

You got it now, lol. As far as lid or no lid, I ran mine with no lid for easy access, but I had the head wrapped in aluminum to keep the temps in the 200 degree range. I would also preheat my engine to about 180 before even starting it, it made starting easier and got my temps in the ideal range for the entire three minutes. The wait for the cool down is what really sucked, lol.

I hope I don't sound like a dope with this thread, but I like the fact that you are able to hit the track much quicker using this method. I am just a little causous just because of the old addage...... "If it is too good to be true then it probably is" I just want to make sure that I have got it down before I attempt this method on my 300 dollar mill.

Tom

 

[NCNitro]

I used it on my $300+ WS7II, so far so good. It actually took me longer however breaking in my RB with the heat cycle method as opposed to the old school break in methods. It takes a good bit of time for it to cool back to ambient temps.

 

[godale03]

I used it on my $300+ WS7II, so far so good. It actually took me longer however breaking in my RB with the heat cycle method as opposed to the old school break in methods. It takes a good bit of time for it to cool back to ambient temps.

Yeah, that is what I am afraid of as well. I still have not been totally convinced that this method is best, but it sounds good anyway! LOL Take care.

Tom

 

[olds97_lss]

Or... you could go with the WOT break-in method... It was posted a while back, but I don't have the balls or $ to try it.

I have a feeling it's geared more towards plane engines. But, from what I remember, there was a detailed article about doing it with land engines as well.

 

[sweetdiesel]

Or... you could go with the WOT break-in method... It was posted a while back, but I don't have the balls or $ to try it.

I have a feeling it's geared more towards plane engines. But, from what I remember, there was a detailed article about doing it with land engines as well.

Lamberto Collari breaks in all his engines this way. He won the 1/8 worlds last year but those guys can throw away engines for fun.

Here is the article from Josh Cyrul.

http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php

I'm in the same boat as you olds, don't have the guts or money to try it.

 

[olds97_lss]

This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!

Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
CEFX

Yeah... that's the one. I remember seeing this and thinking "a whole 16 hours!!!"...

I've gotten 12 gallons through an OS 21 RG before pinch service was needed.
1 gallon=3785cc's
3785/125cc(one tank)=30 tanks

1 tank in my savage lasts on average 8.5-9 minutes.
30 tanks * 8 minutes = 240 minutes per gallon
240 minutes * 12 gallons = 1440 minutes
2880 minutes/60 = 48 hours of run time.

That's on the conservative side with the time per tank... plus, it's a cheap engine that wasn't leaned to the 9's for higher performance.

I guess having engines to throw away would make me want to break it in however I wanted as well.