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Keep stripping spurs!

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alpinestars199

RCTalk Racer
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rochester,ny
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
I've been through 2 spur gears today! I can't get the right amount of slip in it! Everything is tight including my engine and all the braces (etc). Anyway I'm doing big jumps and stuff and I can't seem to figure out why it keeps stripping in the manual it says tighten down the nut all the way then back off half way? How much is all the way?
 
I've been through 2 spur gears today! I can't get the right amount of slip in it! Everything is tight including my engine and all the braces (etc). Anyway I'm doing big jumps and stuff and I can't seem to figure out why it keeps stripping in the manual it says tighten down the nut all the way then back off half way? How much is all the way?

All the way is TIGHT. Crank it down TIGHT, then back it off, start with 1/8 to 1/4 turn. The manual for the Flux says the same thing, and the motor will smoke the spur in a second on full throttle.

Back it off to 1/8 turn, give it full throttle and see how long it takes to take off. Start from there until you are happy with it.
 
Even when I ran my old .25 savage i used hardened spurs and clutchbells. If you know how to mesh them properly the hardened spur gears make a huge difference. I've had my savage XL for about 5 months now, and I have yet to see much wear on either the spur gear nor the clutchbell.
 
I would be checking your engine mount and plate it sits on for hairline cracks or a broken crossbrace under it. if there is the slightest warp in the plate it will affect your mesh. You say your doing a lotta jumping, this can also be the result of your broken fuel tanks too most of the time i have heard of the shock closest to the tank bending and punching into the fuel tank. i recently found my engine plate and carrier brace busted and it messed up my mesh but got to it before i fried my plastic spur gear. hope this advice helps you.
 
Am I the only one who actually read the first post?

Don't offer advice until you read what the OP had to say. He said nothing about gear mesh, he's talking about slipper tension.
 
I just replaced both of the braces the engine plate sits on and the engine plate. Didn't see any problem just wanted to switch from the orange plate to purple kinda like it better :)

---------- Post added at 5:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 5:28 AM ----------

I also loctite eveeythkng so theirs no screws loose and ill take the advice and make the slipper very tight I'm just surprised cause I've never had this happen!
 
Another thing, a small dab of blue loctite will keep the slipper nut from backing off if the nylon is worn. Nylon locknuts are only good for so many uses before they fit the thread and do no good.
 
Am I the only one who actually read the first post?

Don't offer advice until you read what the OP had to say. He said nothing about gear mesh, he's talking about slipper tension.

I read what he had to say. When I ran stock plastic spurs in the past they always stripped eventually. I was saying to go with the metal ones be cause if your mesh is right, you don't have to worry about damaging your spur gear no matter how tight you have it, as with the upgraded spurs I lock mine.
 
I read what he had to say. When I ran stock plastic spurs in the past they always stripped eventually. I was saying to go with the metal ones be cause if your mesh is right, you don't have to worry about damaging your spur gear no matter how tight you have it, as with the upgraded spurs I lock mine.

Yeah instead youll blow a tranny costing you more in repairs than could have been done the 'smarter' way sticking with stock plastic spurs.
 
think the plastic/steel spur equates out to owner preferences and experiences with them. dont think theres a need to be offended either way
 
Didnt mean to offend anyone, but the majority frown apon alloy spurs for the fact that they internally fail (tranny) then just stripping the spur as aposed to composites.
 
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