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Diff rebuilds won't cure that. Whatever happened there is not normal anyway, clean it out, and if it happens again, be worried - because it's not normal.

I don't touch my K2 diffs any more often than maybe once in two gallons and i'm a pretty avid wrencher, and if you set them up right to start with you could go double that easy without needing to rebuild. And for the sake of it, when i open up my diff cases I see nothing but a bit of excess black grease which has been flicked off the gears.

To help keep the universal pushed a little deeper into the cup, what you can also do (my memory just kicked in this morning) is use some small washers between the universal end and inside bearing of the hubs. So put a washer or as many as needed, onto the universal end, and then slide it into the bearings. Some of those specific washers should have come with your kit, and you could probably find some more.

You can only go so far before the dogbone end gets pushed in too tight, so make sure you check after each time you do it.

That combined with FRB's method (use fuel tubing, there's more cusion than plastic washers) you can get maximum up travel, while not having the end pop out.
 
Yeah after further thought, I decided to go with the fuel tubing also for the very reason you stated Udi, that it is more cusion. I have not done it yet but i did look at it some more and there is now way the right side could come out, cause i compressed the right side and the is just noway it would pull out, and it does not. The left how ever does, and part of the reason is that i do have some play in the uni. on the bearing end, so like you mentioned i will put some shims in there, i had about a 1mm play, then i went to the diff and checked my mesh again, and it was a little lose so i adjusted the shims on the diff and was able to get a bit more. so i hope that helps. but i am shut down for a while cause my stearing knuckle, i think it is also called a king pin is stripped where the screw goes in the bottom so I am going to get the fioroni ones, they are suposed to be better, i am glad it broke cause now i can upgrade.
 
the problem with the axels popping out.. is because the new updated rear shocks.. they are a total of like 6mm longer than the K2 shocks.. 4mm longer body.. and 2mm longer shafts.. what alot of guys do is put a set of front uni's in the rear.. or.. put suspension limiters on the shock shafts.. i know its a problem.. i contacted kyosho.. and still have had no response..

if you want you can put the K2 shocks in the rear.. or just put longer unis in the rear.. also.. some guys even put the drive cups from the center diff in the rear also..
 
well. this is my first time here in almsot 1 hole year but uh.. the problem with the front left axel popping out is because you have the uhm.. front spindles mixed up. flip the sides and try it. mine did the EXACT same thing yours did, everytime i landed a jump the damn axel would fall out. i rebuilt he buggy once and found out what i had done wrong.




//leaves again.
 
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