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k46 Clutch shoe Retainer springs?

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arawak420

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all three of the retainer springs that hold the clutch shoes on are all bent. is this common with these springs? why did this happen?
which way does the pilot nut go on that holds flywheel on? does the flat side hold the flywheel on or does the side that narrows in. it seems that the narrow end holds it on by the way the clutch shoe retainer spring lines up but there is play in the wheel. the other dirction holds it on tight with no play,but the clutch shoe retainer springs dont line up.

i got it all broke in today and began driving it when i noticed it just rev'd up and moveed really slow. of course I'm thing it's the shoes. i geuss it was cause the springs are bent now.
 
If this is the clutch you have in THIS MANUAL, on the left, part #87050b, that's the way they work.
The short end goes in the slot on the shaft. The two shoe and three shoe are the same setup.
 
do this retainer springs have a habit of bending?
are the clutch shoes suppose to expand/open in the clutch bell, or do they stay the same way they look when i put them on the flywheel. they should have used the t-maxx style where a spring wraps all the way around the clutch shoes?
these springs are weak.
 
when you installed the clutch did you push the spring back around the fly wheel retaining nut?? I doesn't sound like you did
 
When they are in right, and the springs are right, each shoe will have spring resistance holding it IN. You can pull each shoe out, and you will feel the tension from the spring. The faster it spins, the farther the shoes come out, till they engage the clutch bell.
I still don't know what you mean by bent. A picture would be helpful. The link I provided above shows that they are curves. Is that what yours look like?
 
The only difference between that drawing and the k4.6 is that the 4.6 uses a three shoe clutch not the two shoe other then that it goes togher the same way.. I don't think he installed the springs the right way?
 
Apparently he installed them wrong. I'm still waiting for him to say if they look like the ones in the pic. They are curved, and they have to be, to hold tension on the shoes and clear the bell. There's no way they can bend by themselves.
 
the kit insturctions have a different pilot nut than this one. that picture you showed me Rolex is the right pilot nut for this kit. i had the pilot nut on back wards. i went and got some new ofna buggy retainer springs. now it just goes slow as hell. i have the hsn set at three turns out and the lsn turn in 1/8 from factory setting and it's still slow. I'm totally clueless to these machines.there is white smoke flowing.and man does this throttle linkage SUCK.
 
What do you mean, that it goes slow? Is the engine running piggy, or is the engine reaching high RPMs, and it's moving slow? Does it pull out good from the start and then not reach a high speed? Is there a problem with the throttle linkage that does not allow the carb to open completely?
One thing at a time, be specific as to what's happening, and we'll get you running.
 
rpms get up but it just doesn't take off like bat oout of hell or reach high speed. it pulls out slow and just goes slow. what is piggy?

slipper clutch isn't to tight or loose. the new clutch shoe springs are really strong. they are ofna brand. it's pretty hard to pry them up with my finger.
 
Man you take a pic of your set up I still don't think you have the clutch set up right
 
arawak420 said:
what is piggy?
Click to expand...
Basically running lousy. Blubbery or stubborn, even though it runs.

It definately sounds like you have something set up wrong in your clutch. It should start to move slightly above idle. Since you had a problem with it already, it's possible that you overheated it, and it's now glazed. First spin the CB with your finger, and make sure it spins freely. That lets you know if the bearing is still good or if it's binding.
Take the CB off and scuff up the inside of it with a scrubby pad or fine sandpaper to remove the glaze. Do the same to the contact edge of the shoes.
If it's glazed, the shoes will slip, your RPMs will come up, but it won't move out very well, and will seriously overheat.
Keep us posted.
 
i took the clutch bell off everything is the cool same.no glaze or signs of overheating. these ofna clutch springs are so stiff i can barely pry it up. the original ones move more freely. there is no glaze or anything wrong. I'm gonna try and get the ones that came with the truck.
 
arawak420 said:
i took the clutch bell off everything is the cool same.no glaze or signs of overheating. these ofna clutch springs are so stiff i can barely pry it up. the original ones move more freely. there is no glaze or anything wrong. I'm gonna try and get the ones that came with the truck.
Click to expand...
Did yu check your bearings? Maybe you have a defective bearing.
 
it spins fast and freely. i swaer before the original springs broke the wheels spun by the clutch engaging. with these thick strong,tight ofna springs like i said i can barely pry it up. inside of the bell is clean and the shoes.
 
arawak420 said:
it spins fast and freely. i swaer before the original springs broke the wheels spun by the clutch engaging. with these thick strong,tight ofna springs like i said i can barely pry it up. inside of the bell is clean and the shoes.
Click to expand...
Have tried different springs?
 
i just found out that there is soft and hard clutch shoe springs, and these ofna ones are hard as a mo fo. the clutch wont even engage with these springs.
ofnc1011.jpg
 
I have the same problem also, I have a savage with a .30 os. I put on the strong springs and my truck, would take alot of throttle for it to start to move so i guess ill try to put on the softer ones the shoes came with. Did you put the softer ones on and if you did was there a diffrence on the take off and top end or was it the same?
 

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