Just check it every gallon or so. You should be ok with that. If it starts acting lean on you for no apparent reason, a clogged filter could be the cause.
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Just got my new buggy, a few questions.
- Thread starter AC48
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Nitro_Freak
RCTalk Addict
also, i've heard that the stock shock towers bend kinda easily on the x-t. i haven't had any experiance with them, so don't hold me to it. also, if you want you can even buy a roll cage for it. doesn't protect it much (doesn't go over the shock towers and the engine head is already protected), but it sure looks aweome!!
Nitro_Freak
RCTalk Addict
i think the shock towers bend more when you roll it than anything ele because they stick out so much, unlike trucks where the body covers everything.
Nitro_Freak
RCTalk Addict
well it would if the impact was hard enough, just depends on the shock tower, how strong it is depends on material, thickness, etc.
Nitro_Freak
RCTalk Addict
cool, which head did you buy? the xtm one?
AC48
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My heatsink and temp gun came today!!! A day late, but oh well. I think it's a good thing I got my temp gun because I guess I'm a little worse at tuning than I though I was. :shrug: My temps were up around 280-300, peak was 299 degrees. keep in mind that it was 10 degrees higher than normal outside, it was 92 out today. Also, those temps were at WOT passes down my street, driving around normally they were at about 270-280 which isn't that bad. Anyway, I threw on the new heatsink and my temps were 260 for WOT passes, and about 220-240 for normal driving. So over all my temps dropped quite a bit. On colder days I might lean it a bit, but for today with the new heatsink and the high temps outside I was happy with my temps.
BTW, that heatsink is literally almost double the size and looks A LOT better. The old one made the engine look small, but this new one makes it look beefy like a big block should.
One more question: Is it normal for the piston and sleeve to be a little brown?? Its like tinted brown, its still shiny, just a little brown.
BTW, that heatsink is literally almost double the size and looks A LOT better. The old one made the engine look small, but this new one makes it look beefy like a big block should.
One more question: Is it normal for the piston and sleeve to be a little brown?? Its like tinted brown, its still shiny, just a little brown.
Yea, brown is pretty normal. The inside of the sleeve should be nice and silver, and the sides of the piston should be a silver color (although not polished like the sleeve.) The top of the piston will probably be brown, as well as the outside of the sleeve. From all the engines I've seen, this is normal.
As far as temps go - these engines can be weird when it comes to outside temps. While I've found that an engine will usually run hotter when the outside air temp gets really hot, I've also found that the colder it gets outside, the hotter the engine tends to run. The air gets thinner as it get colder, so it runs the engine leaner. The warmer it is outside, the more dense. Just one more thing to keep in mind while tuning these things =)
As far as temps go - these engines can be weird when it comes to outside temps. While I've found that an engine will usually run hotter when the outside air temp gets really hot, I've also found that the colder it gets outside, the hotter the engine tends to run. The air gets thinner as it get colder, so it runs the engine leaner. The warmer it is outside, the more dense. Just one more thing to keep in mind while tuning these things =)
AC48
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- #33
I took the back plate off when it got a little loose and all in there is silver. Just the top of the piston and a little bit on the sleeve is brown. Good to know that that is fine 
As for tuning I find it very wierd too. My temps were at about 250 and then all of a sudden they went up to 300 for like 10 seconds and then back to 260 or so. It could be my temp gun but its just weird.
As for tuning I find it very wierd too. My temps were at about 250 and then all of a sudden they went up to 300 for like 10 seconds and then back to 260 or so. It could be my temp gun but its just weird.
It may also be the spot your hitting with the temp gun. I try to check temps around the glowplug right above the exaust port. That's probably the hottest spot.
Brown is ok, but I'm pretty sure it tells you your running a bit on the hot side.
As for ambient temps, from 60-100, I've noticed humidity plays a larger role than actual temperature. The drier it is, the better and cooler my engines seem to run. When it's 80 and humid, I have a hard time staying below 260. But, 80-95 and low humidity, I've run all day around 240.
I've also noticed, that around 70 and low humidity, is where I get the best performance while still running a bit rich. I can normally run with temps around 220-240 on days like that for hours at a time.
Brown is ok, but I'm pretty sure it tells you your running a bit on the hot side.
As for ambient temps, from 60-100, I've noticed humidity plays a larger role than actual temperature. The drier it is, the better and cooler my engines seem to run. When it's 80 and humid, I have a hard time staying below 260. But, 80-95 and low humidity, I've run all day around 240.
I've also noticed, that around 70 and low humidity, is where I get the best performance while still running a bit rich. I can normally run with temps around 220-240 on days like that for hours at a time.
Well, as with anything RC related, there are about 14 schools of thought on it. I like to keep mine below 260, but I still want good performance. Most engines can find good power below 250, but a spike now and again to 270 won't kill it.
If you have good smoke and good power, you should be fine. Running an engine by temp alone isn't a good idea. I really use my temp gun a lot during break in since at that point, temp is realy crucial. Too hot, toast, to cold, toast... But for day to day running on a properly broken in engine, good smoke + good power usually means good temps. But it's always good to check it now and again just in case.
If you have good smoke and good power, you should be fine. Running an engine by temp alone isn't a good idea. I really use my temp gun a lot during break in since at that point, temp is realy crucial. Too hot, toast, to cold, toast... But for day to day running on a properly broken in engine, good smoke + good power usually means good temps. But it's always good to check it now and again just in case.
CorradoPsi
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cbreaker said:
actually you have this backwards. air gets more dense as it gets cooler so your actually packing more air into your motor which causes it to lean out. when its hot outside the air is less dense, but some people find themselves richening up the motor anyway to combat the ambient heat. if you have a good cooling head. you will be leaning out when it gets hot outside.
AC48
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- Thread starter
- #38
I just use the temp gun to make sure I'm not going over a good temp. I don't tune just by temp, I use it to double check that I'm not murdering my engine.
One more question: A lot of peole said the tires on the X-Terminator suck and wear out quickly. Well, they were all right. My tires are already bald and I've had them for 2 weeks. What do suggest for a tire that will last long and be used only for bashing? I mainly drive on grass, pavement, and some times dirt. Thanks!
One more question: A lot of peole said the tires on the X-Terminator suck and wear out quickly. Well, they were all right. My tires are already bald and I've had them for 2 weeks. What do suggest for a tire that will last long and be used only for bashing? I mainly drive on grass, pavement, and some times dirt. Thanks!
CorradoPsi said:
Yea, that's what I meant. Makes much more sense that way. I knew it didn't sound right.
AC48 said:
That's hard because most off-road tires wear out pretty fast on pavement. I'd suggest getting a good set of slicks for the pavement driving, as they won't be trashed in a few hours.
However, some tires will last longer then others on pavement; Proline Knuckles have a lot of rubber on the ground, and if you get the XTR compound (a little harder) it will help keep them going longer.
Otherwise, my Proline Crimefighters (M2 compound) have been champs for dirt and grass driving. I've been using them all season and they show very little signs of wear. But I know if I drove them on pavement for a couple hours they'd be toast.
I think Proline has great rubber. I don't really know about other brands as I've pretty much been sticking with Proline.
CorradoPsi
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well i can tell you to stay very far away from ofna Excels. i got those and a set of crimefighters with my buggy and in about 4 hours of use, i have a bald strip down the center of them. I'm saving the crimefighters just for track use. ill have to give those XTR Knuckles a try myself.
