J's XTS-F10 Fiesta WRC

[xjtorc]

I defeated the gyro by using channels 3 and 4 instead of 1 and 2. On a flysky rx with a gyro, 1 & 2 are affected by the gyro and so far I have not figured out a way to adjust gyro gain.
-ok- story time is over now, bye.

Defeat all the gyros. Nothing ruins a good time like a gyro in an RC car.

 

[TeknoJ]

Defeat all the gyros. Nothing ruins a good time like a gyro in an RC car.

I have never driven anything with a gyro. I have a WL 1/28 drift truck, and I don't think it has a gyro either.
With enough practice and knowing your surface, I would think you can drift like a pro without any gyro input.

 

[TeknoJ]

Got this in the mail yesterday, I hope it was worth it. I am quite often a sucker for trying something new or different, looking for those unheard of gems.
Looks good, then again so did the furitek…..

It comes with a sensor cable adapter. If this thing is ANY good at all, I will have to buy some up quick before they raise the cost to the Hobbywing level.

A bit overkill for the XTS but I wanted a sensored system.

 

[xjtorc]

A bit overkill for the XTS but I wanted a sensored system.

Oh yeah! Smooth is fast!

 

[desmobob]

Here’s another photo of how I reinforced what I would consider some potentially fragile areas. I used a light layer of e6000 over the drywall tape.
Some shoe goo/ flex seal type pastes can have a reaction with the paint if it isn’t fully cured. Createx paint seems to dry very fast especially with light layers.
View attachment 261502

Did adding the sheetrock tape and light layer of goop affect the fit of the lights?

 

[TeknoJ]

Did adding the sheetrock tape and light layer of goop affect the fit of the lights?

Not at all

 

[desmobob]

Not at all

That's good. Because I went ahead and did a partial sheetrock tape-and-Shoe Goo job before waiting to find out.

 

[TeknoJ]

That's good. Because I went ahead and did a partial sheetrock tape-and-Shoe Goo job before waiting to find out.

It might be a tight fit but should be fine. Hopefully you didn’t go super thick

 

[desmobob]

It might be a tight fit but should be fine. Hopefully you didn’t go super thick

I kept it very thin.

 

[TeknoJ]

I kept it very thin.

I think I reinforced mine before I ever ran it, or soon after a trial run since that is a common issue. Mine has taken a few nasty tumbles and it has held up so far. I also added a small bead of E6000 around the lights on the inside of the body once installed. That's a good looking car and I wish they would make one for the wider F10.

 

[desmobob]

I think I reinforced mine before I ever ran it, or soon after a trial run since that is a common issue. Mine has taken a few nasty tumbles and it has held up so far. I also added a small bead of E6000 around the lights on the inside of the body once installed. That's a good looking car and I wish they would make one for the wider F10.

I had thought of adding some Shoe Goo around the perimeter of the light housings on the inside. I wondered if attaching them too well would have them getting broken in a big crash instead of getting knocked loose.

These beautiful lights are likely the most fragile part of the Rlaarlo excellent rally cars. I've only had a few wrecks with my XTS-S10; a single barrel roll back onto the wheels and one more spectacular incident that pushed in one of the headlights. Like the XTS-F10, the S10 headlight modules have a curved "neck" on the front that is one of the attachment points.

But unlike the F10's tough black plastic headlight modules, the S10's is made completely of that chrome-plated brittle plastic (polystyrene?). That "neck" section broke off. I was able to repair it. But the amber directional signal part of the light has come loose inside the light module and slid out of place. No big deal, but a bummer none the less.

I'm holding off on the maiden run of my new F10 until I get the mesh chassis protector installed. That should be tomorrow.

 

[TeknoJ]

I'm holding off on the maiden run of my new F10 until I get the mesh chassis protector installed. That should be tomorrow

That thing is a joke don’t even bother. It attaches around underneath the chassis and will just deteriorate. It’s pointless. The better option is a mudflap/mudguard. I found one on cults3d and printed it. I understand not everyone has access to a 3s printer though.

 

[desmobob]

That thing is a joke don’t even bother. It attaches around underneath the chassis and will just deteriorate. It’s pointless. The better option is a mudflap/mudguard. I found one on cults3d and printed it. I understand not everyone has access to a 3s printer though.

The hack is to put some Velcro on the sides of the chassis and just use the top, zippered mesh section of the cover. My XTS-S10 has what look like very effective wheel wells and my own added extensions and it still fills up with small stones, even after a pavement run.

A similar mesh cover over the top of the chassis was standard on my Team Associated Rival MT10. It is totally effective. Its drawback is that it doesn't have a zippered access for battery installation. It was initially a bit inconvenient but I rigged it so it's much easier to use.

 

[TeknoJ]

The hack is to put some Velcro on the sides of the chassis and just use the top, zippered mesh section of the cover. My XTS-S10 has what look like very effective wheel wells and my own added extensions and it still fills up with small stones, even after a pavement run.

A similar mesh cover over the top of the chassis was standard on my Team Associated Rival MT10. It is totally effective. Its drawback is that it doesn't have a zippered access for battery installation. It was initially a bit inconvenient but I rigged it so it's much easier to use.

Hopefully it doesn’t get too hot in there, and if it works then it works.

 

[TeknoJ]

I just beat the crap out of this for about 20 minutes. What a tough little car, and a freakin’ missile too.
Here is the under the shell shot with the mudguards I printed. The front was heated and I pressed the body down to form them where they need to be.

 

[desmobob]

Here is the under the shell shot with the mudguards I printed. The front was heated and I pressed the body down to form them where they need to be.

Nicely done. I added on to the wheel arches that were provided with my XTS-S10 with some vinyl upholstery fabric. I use the top half of the Rlaarlo mesh chassis cover in my XTS-F10. They are incredibly fun cars!