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Josh Cyrul's Break in Method

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Making that statement on it's own without explaining the heat cycle method could lead someone to believe that you are advising that the method only involves running for 20-25 minutes straight and then hitting the track. Re-read your post and you can see where I am coming from.

I am still waiting for you to provide the source of data that shows the number of premature engines failures that have occurred due to heat cycling.
 
neobart... its an engine revised by STS to Rick Brake's specs. Rick Brake is the man from RB mods.

Diesel. Grab an engine with an extremely tight pinch and try the heat cycle... then hit the track right after 20-25 mins of run time and "race tune" it. Guaranteed failure. STS engines have an extremely tight pinch... I can guarantee that you'll kill it if you only run it for 20-25 minutes.

I'm not saying engines fail due to heat cycling. I'm saying they fail because people think they are track ready right after those 20-25 minutes of running. There is a decent chunk missing in that break in method that was posted here.
 
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I have heat cycled Novarossi, RB, and O.S. engines in the past and not one has had premature failure. My last RB had 5+ gallons and it wasn't even close to needing a new piston and sleeve.

I can't vouch for the STS line as I have not had any experience with them. Have you heat cycled any other brand of engine outside of STS and had premature failure?
 
i've had a nova mega, and a couple OS engines that have. Both companies told me "next time, pull the plug and feel for resistance" after replacing the piston/sleeves.
 
Heat Cycle all the way!!! It has been proven the best method period for breaking in ANY engine.

Thousands of satisfied Pros and club racers will testify to that.

I have been thru a meager 8 mills using this method and ALL of them are still running either on my rigs or on others rigs....so take my two cents with a grain of salt.

However, the rich Idle it and slam the piston and sleeve together COLD idea presented here comes from a guy who SELLS engines .....remember that...;)
 
My not so local hobby shop uses this method for break in....Thats why I wouldn't let them do the free break in on a truck I bought from them. I'm not saying it's bad but I don't trust it.

rccars411 said:
If you can find a bad SH engine, it'd surprise me.
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I found one! I was following the break in instructions that came with it...The rod broke on the second tank. I know your first response will be I did something wrong but I have quite a few break ins under my belt with several different brands and never have I had this happen before or since then.

If someone gave me anything made by SH it would be on eBay before I even opened the box!
 
Then you should stay away from: SH(well DOH), LRP, Nosram, Dynamite and Sportwerks.
 
you never specified which engine it was that they released. For all we know, its already a 10 year old design that failed you :ahem:.

I also want to say this... USA doesn't get to see SH's better engines, engines like Jason Ashton runs with and almost always does well. He's sponsored by SH and is in the A-main quite a bit... yet we'll never see those engines unless Hobby People gets their act together.
 
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rccars411 said:
I also want to say this... USA doesn't get to see SH's better engines, engines like Jason Ashton runs with and almost always does well. He's sponsored by SH and is in the A-main quite a bit... yet we'll never see those engines unless Hobby People gets their act together.
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According to what your saying people in the US should stay away from SH engines all together because the only thing available to us is junk that was not good enough....Thats pretty bad when a dealer makes that type of comment about a product they sell.


BTW, you sure are pushing a product you sell pretty hard....you should pay to be a forum sponsor instead of trying to do it without paying. If someone asks about an SH engine thats one thing but you throw it into every post possible.
 
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I'm with SD on this, I've heat cycled my MR Ninja (RB Mods), OS VZB VSpec (stock and EB Mods), and a Radical 621P, all were on the track in twenty minutes of run time and not one has had premature failure nor are they showing signs of getting tired. Alot of engine manufacturers recommend replacing the rod after break in or one gallon. I think it's horse puckey as well.
 
I've never honestly done the true "heat cycle" method of running a few minutes, killing it, cooling at BDC, running a few, killing, cooling...

I heat cycle with tanks of fuel. I start tuning for performance around tank 10-12. Up to tank 10, I lean/richen it to keep the temps between the 210-230 mark. The only engine I've had fail prematurely to date is my stinking axial 28. It didn't really fail as much as stop running well at about 3/4 gallon after being in storage for 6 months. Otherwise I average about 9 gallons before pinch service needs done.

I don't buy top dollar engines though, so I don't fight with a lot of pinch. The Axial was the worst out of the 13 engines I've done as far as pinch goes.
 
olds97_lss said:
The only engine I've had fail prematurely to date is my stinking axial 28. It didn't really fail as much as stop running well at about 3/4 gallon after being in storage for 6 months.
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What happen to the Axial?
 
Don't know. My M26SS runs hot (average 250F-260F) in my aftershock and I hate hot engines... hard to start, run funny... but it has decent power.

So I thought I'd throw the axial in that's been sitting on shelf since I sold my mammoth. It seemed to run great in the mammoth. Plenty of power, lots of smoke and ran cool around 220-240. That was in a relatively low geared single speed mammoth (center diff). I put the stupid thing in the aftershock and figured I'd have a hard time getting the front wheels out of the sky... no joy. I had a hard time keeping the temps down (265F+, once at 290!) and power is non-existent.

I just read a post at another forum that made me think though. The mammoth had an in-tank stone filter. The AS doesn't and the big fat in-line filter that came with it had a torn seal out of the box. I replaced the in-line with a little in-line that I had from my t-maxx days (small block). The thread I read was talking about a small filter on a big engine possibly causing lean issues that the guy couldn't tune out. Makes me wonder if I'm having the same problem. The M26SS runs hot, but I don't care since it's a cheap RTR engine. The axial is in pieces on my bench as I had torn it down looking for torn seals and whatnot.

I found nothing that would cause my high temps and poor running. I had just replaced the front bearing and sealed it all up with RTV two days prior to running it just to prepare.

Maybe I should start a new thread... I feel a bit stupid since I've had so many different rigs and engines in my 6 years of being in the hobby to ask dumb questions though...
 
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SMaxxin said:
According to what your saying people in the US should stay away from SH engines all together because the only thing available to us is junk that was not good enough....Thats pretty bad when a dealer makes that type of comment about a product they sell.
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Woah woah woah, when was I an SH dealer?

If you guys are happy with sport SH engines, then stick with em. But if you want SH's engines that are pretty potent and powerful, you'll have to order from over seas.

A: never said I was an SH dealer... and I am not one.
B: never said SH engines were bad. YOU said they were junk :ahem:
 
olds97_lss said:
Don't know. My M26SS runs hot (average 250F-260F) in my aftershock and I hate hot engines... hard to start, run funny... but it has decent power.

So I thought I'd throw the axial in that's been sitting on shelf since I sold my mammoth. It seemed to run great in the mammoth. Plenty of power, lots of smoke and ran cool around 220-240. That was in a relatively low geared single speed mammoth (center diff). I put the stupid thing in the aftershock and figured I'd have a hard time getting the front wheels out of the sky... no joy. I had a hard time keeping the temps down (265F+, once at 290!) and power is non-existent.

I just read a post at another forum that made me think though. The mammoth had an in-tank stone filter. The AS doesn't and the big fat in-line filter that came with it had a torn seal out of the box. I replaced the in-line with a little in-line that I had from my t-maxx days (small block). The thread I read was talking about a small filter on a big engine possibly causing lean issues that the guy couldn't tune out. Makes me wonder if I'm having the same problem. The M26SS runs hot, but I don't care since it's a cheap RTR engine. The axial is in pieces on my bench as I had torn it down looking for torn seals and whatnot.

I found nothing that would cause my high temps and poor running. I had just replaced the front bearing and sealed it all up with RTV two days prior to running it just to prepare.

Maybe I should start a new thread... I feel a bit stupid since I've had so many different rigs and engines in my 6 years of being in the hobby to ask dumb questions though...
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LOL we all have a brain fart now and then. The high temp on the axial is strange, mine ran between 220-230 with nice power. Maybe you should get another filter and try again.

rccars411 said:
A: never said I was an SH dealer... and I am not one.
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My mistake.
 
lemme clarify what I mean by what a GOOD sh engine is. When I say their GOOD engines, I mean their engines that are high performance compared to their sport engines that are offered here in the states.
 

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