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Bryson

Hardcore RCTalk User
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  1. Bashing
So i got my revo out the other day to drive around. Got it all warmed up and tuned again but now its starting to die as soon as I hit the breaks to go into a turn. I'm running the stock 2.5. I had some probles as some may know but i got it running good and compresion is great. The idol is all the way up on the carb and almost all the way on the controler. Any ideas.
 
Have you checked the gap on the carb? needs to be 1mm for a nice idle in most cases. Zero out the trim prior to doing any changes to the idle.
 
I'm getting so tired of this pos 2.5 traxxas mill. I'm going to get a new one some time this week but i dont know if i should get the 3.3 on the trade in or just say screw traxxas and go with a os .18. what other mills would be a good direct bolt in?

i just got done with running my 2.5 and i have decided that it is a pos and I'm going to get a new one. i dont know if i should give traxxas another chance and get the 3.3 or just say screw it and get a os.18. what other motors are out there and are a direct bolt in. and does anyone eles mill die when they hit the brakes or is it just mine.
 
No offense, Bryson, but I highly doubt it's the mill's fault. I'll bet the throttle servo needs centered again because it's causing your carb to close all the way when you hit the brakes.

You need to first set the idle, as stated above, to about 1-2 mm gap. Then, take the servo arm off the servo, turn both the RX and TX on, set the throttle trim on the TX to zero, then put the servo arm back on making sure the carb slider is resting against the idel set screw. Should be good to go then!

There's nothing wrong with your mill, it's the way you have your servo set-up. The 2.5 is actually a good mill, so before you go dropping $200.00 or more on a new mill that will do the exact same thing, try this suggestion and see what happens.
 
Dying when you apply the brakes has nothing to do with the fact that it's a 2.5. If the idle and throttle linkage is not properly set this can happen to any mill. If your hell bent on another mill the OS 18 or the RB 323 are both direct bolt in mills with more power than the 2.5 but if they are not adjusted correctly you won't be happy with those either.
 
I havent tried the servo thing ill work on that tomarrow and see what happens. but my motor just dosent have the off the line pop that i did with the first gallon. people tell me all the time that the first gallon is the best then in looses its power. i thought i played it safe w/ break in and not abusing it and olny using 20% nitro. but o well things get old. i dont think the trinity pipe helped my mill either.
 
Bryson Molesky said:
people tell me all the time that the first gallon is the best then in looses its power.

This has not been my experience at all. I find they get stronger and stronger until they have around 3/4 of a gallon through them, then they are great performers for a long time (depending on how you take care of them) I have 3/4 of a gallon through my 3.3 and it seems to get faster and stronger every time I run it. Some people don't consider a mill fully broke in until it has around a gallon of fuel through it. My guess is that most new users that do a sloppy break in and don't maintain there engine will go through there mill in 1-2 gallons. Someone that does a good break in and keep there mill in top shape will get many many gallons of use from there mills. There are people (very experienced) on here that have gotten up to 10+ gallons on there mill.
 
i have babbied it since i got it in january w/ after run oil and just up keep but it just didint help in my case. all my friends have had there tmaxxes and got 15 gallons through till they blew up but thats just not the case with mine. I'm going to try that servo thing though i might help. and you say that 4 gallons and your car will still pull the front end off the ground. maby i will go with the 3.3 because thats pretty damn good.
 
Bryson Molesky said:
and you say that 4 gallons and your car will still pull the front end off the ground. maby i will go with the 3.3 because thats pretty damn good.

I said my 3.3 has three quarters of a gallon through it, not 4 gallons. Also I never mentioned wheelies. It does wheelie sometimes but not all the time. The extended chassis and the Talon tires make it hard to lift the front, but it will spin the poop out all four tires on concrete no problem. From what I have read the 2.5 Revos (shorter chassis) that have been upgraded with a 3.3 will pull wheelies all day long.
 
Gearing will play a part in poping wheelies as well.

Now I agree with the others about making sure everything is adjusted right on the mill/truck but I also think a mill upgrade isn't a bad ideal either ;)
 
people tell me all the time that the first gallon is the best then in looses its power.

These people sound like habitual glue sniffers, too! What a load of BS, after the first gallon it's downhill! You know why? Because these "people" most likely don't add after run oil and return the piston to BDC. They probably run them too lean consistently and then they blow up.

I think you need to slow down and learn to tune your mill better before you haul off and drop some coin on a new one. Until you truly learn what to look and listen for, doesn't matter how nice of a mill you buy, it'll run like crap until you learn to set them up and tune them right.

Earlier you came on here ranting about it running like crap and it turned out it was tuned all to hell. Now you're on here ranting about it dying when you hit the brakes and you blame the mill, when in fact it's not the engine at all, but the user. I'm not trying to call you out, but I am asking that you try to learn the skills needed to enjoy this hobby to its fullest.

Look, if you're dead set on getting a new mill, you don't need to look for an excuse to buy one, just do it! It's almost like you're trying to validate the purchase. You want a different mill, go buy one!
 
Listen monkey F***** i know what I'm doing. I got my freaking car tuned when the dumb asses at the local hobby shop had no freaking clue what to do and stood around scratching there ass saying its time for a new motor. I fix all my friends cars when they break down and have tuned more mills from nothing to whellie popin fun more times than i can count. But ya I'm tired of people saying o hes just a dumb kid and he can't know anything.
 
Bryson Molesky said:
Listen monkey F***** i know what I'm doing. I got my freaking car tuned when the dumb asses at the local hobby shop had no freaking clue what to do and stood around scratching there ass saying its time for a new motor. I fix all my friends cars when they break down and have tuned more mills from nothing to whellie popin fun more times than i can count. But ya I'm tired of people saying o hes just a dumb kid and he can't know anything.

You can't adjust your idle and linkage, so your not that good
 
Last edited:
Bryson Molesky said:
Listen monkey F***** i know what I'm doing. I got my freaking car tuned when the dumb asses at the local hobby shop had no freaking clue what to do and stood around scratching there ass saying its time for a new motor. I fix all my friends cars when they break down and have tuned more mills from nothing to whellie popin fun more times than i can count. But ya I'm tired of people saying o hes just a dumb kid and he can't know anything.

First off Telling MW To F off will get you no were.
second off...Twisting a needle To gain wheelies Is no big deal..Thats easy Lean the hell out of it.
You need to learn how to tune a mill to get the right performance out of it and make it survive.for a long time..
 
This is retarded idk why were all getting pissed off at one another i didnt sign up for this i signed up to learn some new things not to piss everone off. And i didnt tell monkey to go f himself i dont know where in the hell that came from. It was a statment to tell him ya he is calling me out and i see his point of view but damn he dosent have to say it like that.
 
Who is getting pissed off? Not me..
MW was just stating his opinion on the subject..
 
but damn he dosent have to say it like that.

My apologies if my delivery offended you, but given the tone of your posts and the comments you have made, you tend to blame the issues you are experiencing on everything but yourself, and I merely am bringing that reality into the picture. No one, least of all me, is calling you a dumbass. If you feel that is the case, then that is your problem, not mine. If I truly think you are a dumbass, I guarantee, I'll let you know. Ask around.

I fix all my friends cars when they break down and have tuned more mills from nothing to whellie popin fun more times than i can count

If this is the case, then, I have to wonder why it is you cannot figure this problem out? You asked for help and people try to help. I suggested you look beyond the mill going bad, and you get upset. I had no intention of pissing you off, but at the same time, you said you want to learn something here. First thing is, patience.

I truly do hope you get it figured out and can contribute to the boards moving forward.
 
Well, all angry insuations aside, I just had a hard time with the 2.5 mill in my revo. It wasn't problems like yours, but they were problems that I couldn't tune out. I read and read and read some more. No matter what I tried, it just wouldn't run right. I decided to save up and replace it with a non TRX engine.

Unfortunatly, the 3.3 came out in the midst of my saving up. When I had the cash, there wasn't a store online or otherwise that had one in stock. All you could find were 3.3's selling on ebay for $250 and I wasn't about to spend that kind of $ on a TRX engine...

I bought a 18TM and I love it. Tunes like every other OS I've had (easy and holds it all day) and has more power than I can handle. Running 15/40, it pulls wheelies almost on any surface. I dropped it to 15/38 to make it more controlable and I put on some maximizer beadlocks to weight it down.

How long did yours sit since the last time you ran it? Did it run right the last time you ran it? Did you check/fix your carb linkage yet? Do you have the stock TRS installed? Do you have a stock throttle/brake servo?
 
All the electric stuff on my revo is stock. Would a picco motor fit or does it need a special mount. I can get one for 80 bucks like new for a revo because it didnt work well in my friends tmaxx. What would be needed to get it on my revo.
 
What size Picco are you looking at? The only thing you may need to take into consideration is whether or not the E-Z Start will fit on it. That's all I can think of off the top of my head, so you may want to wait for someone that's installed one to chime in.

I do know that if you go to a BB, you need a conversion kit for it.
 

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