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Well, had the day off, so I got busy on this project. First thing I did was make a template, and then see where it would require holes to be drilled.
At first I thought, four holes, but then quickly realized that if I made the plate a little longer, it would tuck under the bulkhead and could be clamped down by that like the Slash transmission is (which is held in by that and two bolts in the front). My plan was to just go ahead and drill the holes in the rear anyway for additional support.
I cut my CF, and drilled the holes. As per usual, when ever I manually drill CF, there was a lot of necessary tweaking of the holes to get the dang thing lined up...
It was on...but I decided to forgo those extra holes in the chassis by the bulkhead so I wound up countersinking those, and just having the two front ones that actually go through the chassis, since the rear is held rock solid by the bulkhead.
One thing with the Jato trans, is that it has this weird open part underneath where the diff gear is exposed. Covering it with a plate, I noticed that the clearance was extremely tight, and that a couple of the gear teeth would rub when rotating ever so slightly. To eliminate that possibility, I beveled the plate some to allow for clearance.
Ugly, but it's inside the trans
Then I drilled my chassis, and of course somehow the holes were a little off, so after some massaging of those, I got it successfully installed, and it was solidly in place. There are two more holes where bolts come up through the chassis, then the engine mount, and anchor in the transmission, and they are very close to some existing holes, so I may have to extend those holes some, or drill two more yet.
I sat the engine where it would go, and realized that I was going to also have to move my servo, so I did that, which required a little more drilling.
Also, not shown in this pic, I had to trim off the tab that is touching the flywheel (that was where the original transmission's brace connected). Otherwise, plenty of room for adjustments, and no need to cut out a hole for the flywheel since I can raise the engine enough with the CF plate that the engine mount will attach to, which will have a space cut out for the flywheel if the clearance isn't enough (though the mount kit comes with extra spacers so I should be able to raise the engine high enough to avoid that).
The aforementioned rotostart had to also be turned on it's side since it used to sit nicely in the chassis notch. There is just enough room to get that wand shaft by the tire if you're wondering.
Notice now there is a lot of clearance for the header. Previously it was very, very close to the tire and would slightly rub when the suspension was compressed down far enough. I'm also waiting on some more 3m spacers for the upper chassis to mount as you can see the one corner is just floating.
My engine mount is coming Monday I think. For that, I will mount it to a CF plate and put some slotted holes for adjustment in that plate, not the chassis. I will try to use as many of the existing holes in the chassis for that plate too, I think I may have to drill one, maybe two holes in the chassis though. Given the slippery nature of these CF plates, I'll scuff the surfaces of the bottom of the plate and the chassis some to prevent slippage, and probably used flanged/knurled nuts. I may also run some turnbuckles from the upper chassis plate to the rear to stiffen things. It's was pretty bouncy without the engine/trans, a bit stiffer with the trans in, so maybe with the entire assembly together it'll be stiff enough. Previously the old trans had that arm going to the upper plate which made things quite stiff, so I want to recapture that if needed.
So far this hasn't really been as difficult as I had heard a few people saying it would be, only a little minor heartache. Pretty stoked to see how this thing runs with the 2 speed. What is even more intriguing is that, well, there are big block mounts available for this transmission, and yes, a big block fits real nicely
Dare I put that SH .28 p8 in there? Will certainly have to upgrade to steel trans gears (I am doing that regardless). I will think about that one for a while. First I'll be testing out the OS .21 to see how it does, but big block...mmmm...might be too much of a tire fryer to be useful...then again
At first I thought, four holes, but then quickly realized that if I made the plate a little longer, it would tuck under the bulkhead and could be clamped down by that like the Slash transmission is (which is held in by that and two bolts in the front). My plan was to just go ahead and drill the holes in the rear anyway for additional support.
I cut my CF, and drilled the holes. As per usual, when ever I manually drill CF, there was a lot of necessary tweaking of the holes to get the dang thing lined up...
It was on...but I decided to forgo those extra holes in the chassis by the bulkhead so I wound up countersinking those, and just having the two front ones that actually go through the chassis, since the rear is held rock solid by the bulkhead.
One thing with the Jato trans, is that it has this weird open part underneath where the diff gear is exposed. Covering it with a plate, I noticed that the clearance was extremely tight, and that a couple of the gear teeth would rub when rotating ever so slightly. To eliminate that possibility, I beveled the plate some to allow for clearance.
Ugly, but it's inside the trans
Then I drilled my chassis, and of course somehow the holes were a little off, so after some massaging of those, I got it successfully installed, and it was solidly in place. There are two more holes where bolts come up through the chassis, then the engine mount, and anchor in the transmission, and they are very close to some existing holes, so I may have to extend those holes some, or drill two more yet.
I sat the engine where it would go, and realized that I was going to also have to move my servo, so I did that, which required a little more drilling.
Also, not shown in this pic, I had to trim off the tab that is touching the flywheel (that was where the original transmission's brace connected). Otherwise, plenty of room for adjustments, and no need to cut out a hole for the flywheel since I can raise the engine enough with the CF plate that the engine mount will attach to, which will have a space cut out for the flywheel if the clearance isn't enough (though the mount kit comes with extra spacers so I should be able to raise the engine high enough to avoid that).
The aforementioned rotostart had to also be turned on it's side since it used to sit nicely in the chassis notch. There is just enough room to get that wand shaft by the tire if you're wondering.
Notice now there is a lot of clearance for the header. Previously it was very, very close to the tire and would slightly rub when the suspension was compressed down far enough. I'm also waiting on some more 3m spacers for the upper chassis to mount as you can see the one corner is just floating.
My engine mount is coming Monday I think. For that, I will mount it to a CF plate and put some slotted holes for adjustment in that plate, not the chassis. I will try to use as many of the existing holes in the chassis for that plate too, I think I may have to drill one, maybe two holes in the chassis though. Given the slippery nature of these CF plates, I'll scuff the surfaces of the bottom of the plate and the chassis some to prevent slippage, and probably used flanged/knurled nuts. I may also run some turnbuckles from the upper chassis plate to the rear to stiffen things. It's was pretty bouncy without the engine/trans, a bit stiffer with the trans in, so maybe with the entire assembly together it'll be stiff enough. Previously the old trans had that arm going to the upper plate which made things quite stiff, so I want to recapture that if needed.
So far this hasn't really been as difficult as I had heard a few people saying it would be, only a little minor heartache. Pretty stoked to see how this thing runs with the 2 speed. What is even more intriguing is that, well, there are big block mounts available for this transmission, and yes, a big block fits real nicely
Dare I put that SH .28 p8 in there? Will certainly have to upgrade to steel trans gears (I am doing that regardless). I will think about that one for a while. First I'll be testing out the OS .21 to see how it does, but big block...mmmm...might be too much of a tire fryer to be useful...then again