I traded for T-Maxx Some Questions

[madnking]

I just traded for a T-maxx with the dynamite big block conversion but it came with no motor so I ordered a .27 Sirio pro from my LHS. I am new to the maxx and just had a few questions. I have taken it apart and put it back together cleaned, lubed, and replaced screws.

1. One thing I noticed was that the out drives coming from the front and rear diff wobble. They arent solid in the diff cases. I took the diffs apart and everything seemed fine. Is this normal for them to wobble?

2. I took the tranny apart and all the gears are metal except the two center gears. Do people usually replace all the plastic gears or just the main ones?

3. I ordered the Proline Power Stroke shock set and plan on using them for racing. Any one have exp. with them?

4. Whats a good start for a spur gear clutch bell set up for racing?

I'm sure I'll have more question when I get it running because the guy said he thinks the 2 speed tranny needs adjusting?

thnks for you time

 

[olds97_lss]

1. One thing I noticed was that the out drives coming from the front and rear diff wobble. They arent solid in the diff cases. I took the diffs apart and everything seemed fine. Is this normal for them to wobble?

They shouldn't wobble much. This is known on the maxx due to the plastic cups and the style of diff. It isn't really strong enough to handle the power of a 21. You can prolong the life of the diff's by shimming them correctly and using either kippster or maximizer al diff cups. But this is more of an expensive band-aid than a fix. Unlimited engineering makes some kick ass diff's, but they will cost you. They will also reward you with long life and having the ability to get the power to the wheels well.

2. I took the tranny apart and all the gears are metal except the two center gears. Do people usually replace all the plastic gears or just the main ones?

I replaced all the ones I could with the Robinson Racing (RRP) steel gears. The two larger two speed gears are the only ones I never found a metal counterpart for, but they do last a long time. If your running a 21 and you want it to last quite awhile, leave the steel in there. Especially if your putting in the sirio. That thing will tear it apart! I had run 5 gallons through my RRP trans gears and they looked like new when I sold them to bomber. In those 5 gallons, I had to replace 1 two speed shaft, both two speed plastic gears and the one way, but that was only once and in the midst of the 5th gallon.

3. I ordered the Proline Power Stroke shock set and plan on using them for racing. Any one have exp. with them?

I used UE supermaxx shocks (4) and really loved them. I'm now running them on my savage. Although, I never raced, so I can't say how they would do on a track, but they were a basher's best friend.

4. Whats a good start for a spur gear clutch bell set up for racing?

RC-Solutions makes a 1/8 scale set of spurs for the maxx. I had one on for the last gallon. The 1/10 clutches that you can buy for the maxx just don't hold as well as a 1/8 clutch setup. I'd suggest going the 1/8 scale route instead of dumping money on 1/10 scale types. I tried the MIP shoes, RRP spur, RRP cb's, Integy shoes, stock shoes, rad rc 4 shoe and none of them lasted or held as good as when I converted to a RC-Solutions 1/8 spur with a OFNA hardened CB and a 1/8 scale 3 shoe clutch. If you do go this route, make certain to get an OFNA hardened clutchbell. Ones that aren't designed to run against steel spurs will not last. I tried a stock HPI savage cb and it didn't last a tank before I saw sparks flying out the side of the maxx.

I'm sure I'll have more question when I get it running because the guy said he thinks the 2 speed tranny needs adjusting?

thnks for you time

Adjusting the trans isn't a big deal. Just download the manual from traxxas along with the parts explosions (for reference). The manual tells you how to adjust the two speed with a nice picture and step by step.

Actually, here's the link for download: T-Maxx Owners Manual

Goto page 38.

 

[madnking]

Thnks olds for the reply. Those diffs are 200-300 dollars wow. I think they wobble because the diff cases are plastic and they wear to a oval? Does someone make aluminum diff cases that have bearings at the outdrives like a 1/8 scale diff? Cheaper the UE that is.

Also olds i purchased some skids plates (3) and was wondering if the front and rear bumpers were supposed to bold through the skid plates or shoud I just bolt the skid plates to the front and rear bumper mounts and loose the bumpers?

 

[olds97_lss]

I never found any that had bearings. Hell, I haven't seen buggy ones with bearings on the outdrives either!

By the time you buy a maximizer/kippster al cup, RRP gears, aluminum diff housing, bearings, pinion and ring gears, your around $100 a diff anyway. I went with maximizer diff cups $60, integy housings and collar ($30) and boca bearings $20. That adds up to $110 a diff.

The part # UE-13540 is for enough stuff for both diff's. Granted, it's $275, but it's more thank likely worth it. Getting all the stuff I listed above still won't be as good as the UE diffs. For the extra $75 (if I had it to do over) I would have done it.

You can actually get them at this site: http://www.hobbyshopnj.com/monmaxx.html for about $250. I bought my supermaxx shocks off this site and they were quick with shipping. Do a text search on that site for 13540, it will take you right to them. The 8-spider ones are a little bit below for $286

 

[madnking]

thnks olds i didnt realize it was both diffs. ill go with the UE.

 

[olds97_lss]

Check around and see what other guys did. I think running UE diffs throw's off the gear ratio a little bit. Do a little research and see. You might be forced to get other gears or something, but I think you could counteract the gearing with a larger cb/spur combo, but I'm not certain.

Go to this site: http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/SM7.5Diff.shtml and read read read!

I read most of it, and I remembered correctly, they throw off the gear ratio and make it lower. You have to gear the cb/spur taller to get the same gear ratio your running now.

There's also the cvd issue. Make sure to read before you set your mind or send them $! But I have to tell you, running what I ran isn't that great, especially for what it cost me.

 

[madnking]

hey olds maybe this .27 is not such a good idea. More cost than its worth. I am looking at diffs, al bulkheads, titanum hinge and turnbuckles ets. so with the motor its comes to about 750-850. I could buy a new revo drop in the 23 sirio and be done at 745. What do you think

 

[FastEddy]

REVO!
I had well over 2k, Well over, in my CyberMaxx. It was as close to bulletproof as you could get. It was fun but I will never do that again. The T-Maxx is old in its technology and design. If you are going to be racing its not as good of a choice as the REVO.

My stock.. 100% stock.. REVO would have beat my CyberMaxx like a read headed step child on the track due to handling. Sink all the money you have into a T-Maxx and you will still be hard pressed to match the handling of a stock REVO.

For a long time I have been a stonch Traxxas basher. (Basher as in I hate your company and everything it stands for.)

I purchased a REVO just to convince myself I was still on the proper track with my attitude. I have learned enjoyed the taste of my own words. I have to say they did their home work and produced a top shelf product.

If its 1/10th MT racing you want, trash the T and get a REVO. You can sell the 2.5 to help offset the price of a larger engine.

 

[olds97_lss]

Like FE said, for racing, go for the revo. But really, if you want to bash, get a savage.

But if your really determined to get the maxx able to handle the power of a good 21 (or larger), it costs $ and time. Some will tell you it doesn't, but most will tell you that a 21 big block maxx is a costly and depressing item.

You have a good start though with the dynamite conversion and the engine, but that gets you half way there. After beefing up the drivetrain and all the parts that stick out (arms, towers, shocks, bulkheads) are the next thing.

If you do run a revo, they currently have diff issues. I don't know if it's with a mid-block drop in or not, but I think the diff's are a problem with the stock 2.5R engine. So you may be dumping some more $ into it down the line... Or wait until traxxas comes out with a solution. Unfortunatly, they don't have an 1/8 scale anything, so they don't really seem to design things with the power of a .21 in mind.

It's a tough call. Especially if you have $800 burning a hole in your pocket. I started replying to help, but as you can see, even with help, it costs $.

$800 would go a long way on a savage...

 

[lykan]

Well, since you already have the maxx, you could buy a cheap durable big block like the xtm 24.7, or a underpowered .18 and just use it to play and bash around.. then you'd have your maxx running for around $150-175 or so.

You could Spend the rest of the cash on a savage or a revo. Then iof the maxx breaks you can upgrade it slow and over time if you;re in the mood.

 

[Lessen]

Check around and see what other guys did. I think running UE diffs throw's off the gear ratio a little bit. Do a little research and see. You might be forced to get other gears or something, but I think you could counteract the gearing with a larger cb/spur combo, but I'm not certain.
.

This is very true. The UE diff gives you a diff ratio like buggies have. If the UE diff ratio is like a mp7.5 or hyper 7 then it'll be 3.3. Stock T-Maxx diffs are 2.84. That's a dramatic difference. Basically that means that by switching to the UE's the truck will be able to more efficiently use the low end power that you're engine offers...it will also take away top speed. However, if you go ahead and get the RC Solutions big block spur (which I highly recommend)you will be able to get that top end back by using a larger 1/8 CB... say a 17 or 18 tooth versus a 13 or 14 tooth