i don't understand why its not starting!!

[FRIDGE]

i just opened my rc10gt and i tried to start it and it wont start up. the glow plug is good, the ignitor is charged and the plug is glowing yellow-orange fuel is getting to the carb. i dont know whats keeping it from starting can someone help me.the air filter has just enough oil to coat it a bit. i can bearly think of why it wont start. the needle settings are supposed to be factory pre-set so it starts right up but I'm leaning towards fondling with them a bit. please help me!

 

[FastEddy]

Do all the normal things first. Look for a loose backplate or anything that will cause an air leak and tighten all the screws on the carb. Look at the idle gap. Read the manual and see what the factory setting is for the carb needles and reset them.

If all else fails call Santa and get his ass back to your place to fix it.

 

[dmckie]

fast eddy is right on ,Check the back plate first. I dont know how many times i have tryed to start a new engine only to have it not start and then eventually finding out it was a loose back plate.

 

[Rolex]

It's also VERY cold there today. Warm it up inside, and then go out and try it again.

 

[Team 17]

If u are home, try to start it as soon as u get outside before it gets cold. If u are at a different local, warm it up in the car then start it.

 

[FRIDGE]

i will check the back plate. i tried starting it up inside my house near the door so if it ever starts i would take it outside. i used the hair dryer and warmed it till the cooling head temp was 79 degrees and tried to start no luck. i set it back to the factory settings and still no luck. i will check that backplate and carb and let you guys know, could i be being impatient, should i pull for a minute straight i remember that when i got my RS4 i had to run the rotostart for a while to get it up, its a beech that i got it online too i can't take it to the hobby shop.

ok i just checked the carb and backplate. they are tight already.something always hapthink its just me. maybe this engine will start but I'm doing something wrong and i can't figure it out. I'm gonna try to start it and keep pulling the ps because if its getting fuel and the plug is lighting then why the thing wont start i dont know.pens to me i

 

[Rolex]

First, check your carb opening at idle, with the radio trim set all the way down. It should be open just about the width of a paper clip.
There's the possibility that it's flooding. Pinch off the fuel line while you're pulling the starter. Since you have a pull start, it might be easier to put a clamp on the line. Keep pulling the starter, and if it sputters or runs for a couple of seconds, that means it's flooding.
If it was flooded, it will usually run for 2 or 3 seconds before it needs fuel. If it starts, give it 2 seconds, then release the line, and lean out your needles about 1/16th of a turn.

 

[olds97_lss]

Normally, on a cold start, I have to set my throttle trim to be about 1/4 throttle, then back it off the second it starts. With my engines, only when it's tuned really well for the temps/humidity of the day, will it start without opening the throttle trim a little bit.

 

[FRIDGE]

i will try that stuff and let you guys know. not too sure about today its really cold!! i may wait till monday since were expecting flurries tomorrow.also has any of you guys ever broken in a TA engine they say its just 4 tanks of running and to keep temps @ 22-280 with 8-10min cool periods is that sufficient break in?

 

[Rolex]

4 tanks doesn't seem to be enough. Most guys think you do the minimum break in and then immediately go push it to the limit. I've broken in way more airplane engines than car engines, and even though you can run them normally, they don't achieve their best RPMs or lowest idle for at least 3 gallons. Ringed engines, usually 4 or 5 gallons.
I take the same attitude with the car engines. After the initial break in, I lean it to run nice, but far from the best. Every half gallon or so, I'll tweak it some more.
I've never had an engine fail on me......am I just lucky?

 

[Plaidfish]

No just good like that....I always get others opinions on my tuning and seem to get better at it with everybodies input....I've never had an engine fail either...but I always trade em or sell em b4 I've got 5 gallons on them...once they start screaming I run for a gallon and then get something new so I can try different ones whenever I get the chance to...I have a friend that just drops in new O.S. engines and does this half assed 2 tank breakin and he gets at least 5 gallons from his...then I see another guy spend time on very meticulous breakins and he pops stuff al the time cause of his tuning......fine line between winning and whinning.....i just go easy for the first gallon after breakin and mine seem to scream (when I'm not chasing stupid issues down)...my RG has 4 gallons through it now and still feels like a new engine...anyone got an idea on how many gallons an RG should get before it's done....

 

[olds97_lss]

Mine has 6 and almost no compression... but it still starts everytime and runs without to much problems. I think my starter shaft bearing in the backplate is leaking though... it's got slop in it and you can wiggle the shaft, so it's causing some tuning headaches...

 

[Rolex]

I've heard that about 7 gallons is the approximate lifetime for car engines, but as Plaidfish mentions, that's a combination of good break in plus good tuning.