Huge problems w/ Losi Eight T!!

[xlrsd]

Hey guys, I am looking for some serious help here! I just got a new Losi Eight-T RTR two days ago, and I'm having the worst time EVER just getting it to START, to begin the break-in process! I spent literally, 6 hours between trying to start, and recharging starter box batteries to try starting it again, with no success. So, what will be best, is to just explain what was happening, and let me know what you can tell me. It will be lengthy, so here goes........


So, my first series of attempts, I was having the worst time just getting the truggy mated up right on the starter box, and was just burning up the starter boxwheel. And the few times I did get the engine turning over, it would spin the flywheel for a few seconds, then the flywheel would lock up. So I would remove the glow plug, and would dump out fuel (approx 6-10 drops of fuel) from the bore, as well as some fuel coming out of the muffler. It ended up starting twice out of about 25 attempts, and never stayed running more than 3-5 seconds. Finally I check the carb settings, as it was suppose to come with settings ready to break in. (My bad for not checking first). They ended up being both WAY to rich. (About 3 1/2 to 4 full turns from closed, stock settings are 2 1/2 out from closed on both HSN and LSN.) So I change them to stock setting, get maybe another 5 or 6 attempts, and battery dies on starter box. Every failed attempt, I had to remove the glow plug, and manually unlock the flywheel from Top Dead Position of the piston. Oh, and just so no one thinks I didnt think about this, every time I mention taking the glow plug out in this long story, I hooked it up to my ignitor and made sure it burned orange.

For my second series of attempts, I was too impatient, and took my starter box batteries off the charger too early. But I still got the same thing....nothing. All the while, having to remove the glow plug after every attempt to free up the piston from top dead position by manually moving flywheel with screwdriver. As well as continued problems mating the truggy to the starter box, burning up the starter wheel even more.

For my third series of attempts, I had the same issues. However, this time, I was able to get the truck to start 3 times in about 25 total attempts. Each time, it would stay running for a good while. (25-30 sec) But, when I would begin to try to ping the gas slightly, it would sound like it was gonna die, so I would let off. It was idling extremelly high, to the point where I would give it slight gas, and then hit the break, and when I would let off the brake, it would start driving forward it because of the very high idle speed. Then eventually die. My starter box batteries again died, so I had to give up for the day.

I am going to attempt again tomorrow. I went to the hobbystore today, and got some more glow plugs (McCoy #8), and new glow ignitor. I also ordered a new runner starter box wheel, because the one I have is worn to hell now, and will prolly barely make contact with the flywheel as it is. Wont get that until Wednsday though.

So, with all this being told, I am hoping someone who may have had the same issue, or some good advice will help me out. My biggest things are just getting that engine at least going so I can break it in, and mating that damn starter box up properly. I am about to dig my eyes out with a spoon, I am so frustrated. hahaha

 

[Rolex]

One thread per subject. The others have been removed.

 

[Racer 1966]

IMO sometimes the engines come pinched a little too tight. You can slightly loosen the plug to relieve compression and ease the load on your starter box. Tighten as soon as it's running. A high idle as stated is nothing unusual,keep an eye on temps though.
You may need to adjust the needles some to make it stay running too. If it's spitting a lot of fuel it may be too rich,lean it just a little and again keep an eye on temps. You only want it around the 200-220* mark for break-in.
Patience is a must for a good break-in,I know it can be frustrating. Sometimes I just have to walk away and come back another time.

For the starter box,well I'm an MT guy so I don't use them. Don't they have locating pins to adjust so you can set the truck on the same way each time?

Good Luck :thumbup:

 

[xlrsd]

IMO sometimes the engines come pinched a little too tight. You can slightly loosen the plug to relieve compression and ease the load on your starter box. Tighten as soon as it's running. A high idle as stated is nothing unusual,keep an eye on temps though.
You may need to adjust the needles some to make it stay running too. If it's spitting a lot of fuel it may be too rich,lean it just a little and again keep an eye on temps. You only want it around the 200-220* mark for break-in.
Patience is a must for a good break-in,I know it can be frustrating. Sometimes I just have to walk away and come back another time.

For the starter box,well I'm an MT guy so I don't use them. Don't they have locating pins to adjust so you can set the truck on the same way each time?

Good Luck :thumbup:

Thanks, racer. Yeah, I hear that is especially true for the Losi 454 having a very high pinch. I had heard something about the loosening the glow plug, but I thought they meant just turn it over with it loosened, not fully starting it with the glow plug loosened, and tightening it back up after its started. Is that what you meant?

Have you heard of heating up the engine with a heat gun to 200 degrees before starting the engine? Someone else mentioned this to me, but I have never tried it myself. Apparently its supposed to loosen the brass sleeve a little. And yes, you are very right about the patience thing, I've almost lost my mind a couple times already. hahaha

As for the starter box, yes, it has positioning posts, but it is so hard to know if you have it in the right place or not, because there is barely any clearance to see under it. That one I will just have to figure out on my own. Thanks again, racer, greatly appreciated.

 

[Racer 1966]

fully starting it with the glow plug loosened, and tightening it back up after its started. Is that what you meant?

Have you heard of heating up the engine with a heat gun to 200 degrees before starting the engine?

Yes on both. I haven't had to use the heat except in winter but that will definitely loosen up a tight engine.

 

[MotoGod]

HEAT HEAT HEAT! Pre-heat that engine as hot as you can get it before bumping it over on the box. It will pre-expand the brass sleeve, and the other components and make it much easier to spin over....as well as wearing the internals quite a bit less. I personally use a Competition Heat engine warmer and I use it everytime on all my nitro engines...broken in or not. Saves a little on wear and tear, but the huge plus is the engine is ready to tune almost instantly when it fires up....plus starting is a breeze.

Hair Dryer or Heat Gun works as well, but remember to heat the crankcase not the cooling head....and try not to melt the radio box and other items closeby ;-)

Loosening the plug works a bit as well....and you can also add an extra head shim to lessen the compression a bit more as well if you still have issues. Tons of nifty little tricks.....good luck with it!

 

[xlrsd]

Yes guys, the heat gun worked wonders, and was able to start getting the engine fired up consistently! I will continue to use that method, because I was so suprised at how well it worked!

Now to the new problem. Now that I am able to get it started, it will not run well enough at all for me to even take it off the starter box. I can get it running for a good 20-30 seconds at a time, but all the while having to minipulate it to keep it running, and it runs like crap the whole while. I'll explain its characteristics, and maybe you guys can give me some advice on the new subject.......

When I get it going on the starter box, I have to be hair triggering the transmitters throttle to get it to actually fire up, which you dont normally have to do. And once it is running, I either have to keep blipping it to get to to stay running because it will not stay running at an idle, or it begins idling so high, that if it were sitting on the ground, it would prolly do an easy 20 mph! And when it starts idling out of control like that, I have to apply a little brake, and then it dies when I apply the slightest brake. The problem with all this is, if I even give it more than 2 mm in either direction on the trasmitter trigger, it dies. So I have no idea where to go with the low speed needle or idle screw, because it is acting like it would if it were set too rich, AND to lean! I've tried going in both directions in a few small "oclocks" in both directions, with no change or improvement. So, I am stuck as far as how to fix this, after 3 days of seperate attempts of just getting it to be able to put on the ground, and actually driven for breakin, it still hasnt happened. I'm almost starting to feel like there is something else wrong that I'm not thinking of.

So if you all could let me know if its a needle setting problem, or somewhere else I should be looking. Its driving me nuts!! lol Thanks everyone.

---------- Post added at 7:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 7:53 AM ----------

Yes guys, the heat gun worked wonders, and was able to start getting the engine fired up consistently! I will continue to use that method, because I was so suprised at how well it worked!

Now to the new problem. Now that I am able to get it started, it will not run well enough at all for me to even take it off the starter box. I can get it running for a good 20-30 seconds at a time, but all the while having to minipulate it to keep it running, and it runs like crap the whole while. I'll explain its characteristics, and maybe you guys can give me some advice on the new subject.......

When I get it going on the starter box, I have to be hair triggering the transmitters throttle to get it to actually fire up, which you dont normally have to do. And once it is running, I either have to keep blipping it to get to to stay running because it will not stay running at an idle, or it begins idling so high, that if it were sitting on the ground, it would prolly do an easy 20 mph! And when it starts idling out of control like that, I have to apply a little brake, and then it dies when I apply the slightest brake. The problem with all this is, if I even give it more than 2 mm in either direction on the trasmitter trigger, it dies. So I have no idea where to go with the low speed needle or idle screw, because it is acting like it would if it were set too rich, AND to lean! I've tried going in both directions in a few small "oclocks" in both directions, with no change or improvement. So, I am stuck as far as how to fix this, after 3 days of seperate attempts of just getting it to be able to put on the ground, and actually driven for breakin, it still hasnt happened. I'm almost starting to feel like there is something else wrong that I'm not thinking of.

So if you all could let me know if its a needle setting problem, or somewhere else I should be looking. Its driving me nuts!! lol Thanks everyone.

Oh, I forgot to mention, maybe this will help you all out with your idea of what could be wrong. There is decent smoke coming from exhaust, as well as a slight fuel spray. I forgot to throw that in there. Thanks again guys.

 

[MotoGod]

If it's a brand new engine...it will be set pig rich from the factory. What I typically do is bump up the idle a little bit...and lean the LSN a little bit until it idles consistently on the box. The key to the first few tanks is to keep it running without using the throttle much and just letting it run by itself and heating up and such. There are 4 billion break in methods out there. Research it....then pick your favorite.

I typically heat cycle my new engines @ 6-8 times on the box then toss it on the ground and drive slow with it...adding more throttle with each run.