For what it's worth, I use Dean's on RC18T!
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Ok, so after reading this and watching the videos I've determined that it's only by the sheer grace of God i have not caused an explosion or ruined something by my absolute abysmal soldering!
So, my question is, can I use any of these fluxes? The water soluble I've used soldering copper piping. Not sure if I can use it soldering electronics so thought I'd ask. Frankly, not sure where I got the red tin of flux.
Need to solder some Deans connectors to some new battery packs.
Thanks in advance!
So, my question is, can I use any of these fluxes? The water soluble I've used soldering copper piping. Not sure if I can use it soldering electronics so thought I'd ask. Frankly, not sure where I got the red tin of flux.
Need to solder some Deans connectors to some new battery packs.
Thanks in advance!
I use the same paste you have pictured on the bottom from Harvey's... makes really easy work to get professional results every time!
You really shouldnt even need flux if you're using rosin core solder. I mean, it can only help if you do use it but I find it unnecessary for most projects. The only time I use flux is if I'm soldering really heat sensitive items like battery cells. One thing to note, always wipe off any left over flux with alcohol. Flux is corrosive.
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WickedFog
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I use flux on everything. It seem to help the solder flow better.
Yep, will do. Thanks!
Do you just brush a little on, hit it with the iron then solder?
same here, it's like crack and can never stop using it since, ha!
exactly, you don't need very much... I use it to remove old wiring and apply it on bare motor leads as well as dunk the tip of bare wire into the resin and the solder soaks almost instantly leaving a really nice shine
a single can of paste has lasted me nearly 4 years and might go another 10+ years, ha!
*** the only time I don't use flux is on smaller gauge wire, anything in the 12AWG to 10AWG range I would highly recommend using flux!
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Thanks all, gonna give it a shot tonight!same here, it's like crack and can never stop using it since, ha!
exactly, you don't need very much... I use it to remove old wiring and apply it on bare motor leads as well as dunk the tip of bare wire into the resin and the solder soaks almost instantly leaving a really nice shine
a single can of paste has lasted me nearly 4 years and might go another 10+ years, ha!
*** the only time I don't use flux is on smaller gauge wire, anything in the 12AWG to 10AWG range I would highly recommend using flux!
Just finished soldering Deans plugs on two NiMH packs for my TV18T. Turned out so well with the tips here, re-soldered my charging banana plug as well (I de-soldered, cleaned everything up and soldered following the tips here).
It's night and day!
Thanks @WoodiE for the great tutorial.
Thanks @WickedFog , @Greywolf74 and @bill_delong for the advice and tips! Truly appreciate it and hope to pay it forward here at the site!
It's night and day!
Thanks @WoodiE for the great tutorial.
Thanks @WickedFog , @Greywolf74 and @bill_delong for the advice and tips! Truly appreciate it and hope to pay it forward here at the site!
Mean RC18T! Stinking eyes! Next time, put your readers on, Monkey! Sucks getting older!
Sucks getting older!
Roog
RCTalk Champion
Excellent write up.
My thoughts:
Beginners struggle with an iron that has too little mass in the bit or insufficient power. the bit stores the heat energy and transfers it to the work, ideally the bit should hold sufficient energy to complete the joint, the old 'gas hob irons' demonstrated this perfectly, because once off the hob and in use no heat is being added to the bit whilst the soldering operation in taking place.
The name of the game is 'cleanliness and heat transfer', particularly when soldering cables and connectors for the larger cabling used in modern RC electrics
Prep is important, to minimize the time the work is exposed to heat set every thing up so that it doesn't move, hanging on to a hot wire (out of bravery!) and shaking makes for poor joints.
Apply the iron to the largest mass in the joint and preferably the part which is least heat sensitive.
Make sure you allow sufficient time to transfer heat to the work before applying solder
With good prep and a little practice the sequence can be completed quickly minimizing the exposure of heat to the work.
Very satisfying when it all comes together.
My thoughts:
Beginners struggle with an iron that has too little mass in the bit or insufficient power. the bit stores the heat energy and transfers it to the work, ideally the bit should hold sufficient energy to complete the joint, the old 'gas hob irons' demonstrated this perfectly, because once off the hob and in use no heat is being added to the bit whilst the soldering operation in taking place.
The name of the game is 'cleanliness and heat transfer', particularly when soldering cables and connectors for the larger cabling used in modern RC electrics
Prep is important, to minimize the time the work is exposed to heat set every thing up so that it doesn't move, hanging on to a hot wire (out of bravery!) and shaking makes for poor joints.
Apply the iron to the largest mass in the joint and preferably the part which is least heat sensitive.
Make sure you allow sufficient time to transfer heat to the work before applying solder
With good prep and a little practice the sequence can be completed quickly minimizing the exposure of heat to the work.
Very satisfying when it all comes together.
