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how do you know it is broken

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hi.. i just finished breaking in my savage s25, i think i did... on pattern 8 from engine manual instead of 2 tanks i burned 4... and on the very beginning even before idling on a box pattern i started with heating up the engine for like a 1-2 minutes and then turning it off until it cools down for about 10 times.... i just wanted to make sure it's gonna be done right... better be... but i got couple question:
How can you tell if the engine is broken?
How can you tell you did everything allright?
i didn't tune it yet, maybe that's why it seems a little slow....
thanks for replies, bye..
 
it's probably because you havn't tuned it at all yet. turn the high end needle clock wise just a little at a time, like it says in the manual, and it should start to get faster. don't turn it any more than a full turn or turn and a half, make sure you still get some nice smoke outta the exhaust. i'm an amateur, but i'm pretty sure i'm right.
 
I've noticed with just about every engine I've ran, you don't get the real power of the engine until you have run about a gallon through it. Then it starts to behave better with tuning, starting and power output. If you have only run 4 tanks through it, you need to start leaning it out a little bit and actually drive it. Don't be surprised if you notice the power increase as you run more fuel through it though.

I'd buy a temp gun of some sort so you can keep a close check of the head temps, especially if your new. Again, on most engines, a safe temp range is between 210-260. You don't want to run cooler than 200 due to the sleeve doesn't expand fully and it wears it out faster. Also, when you shut it off to cool down, make sure the piston is at the bottom of the cylinder. With the engine cool, pull the glow plug out and slowly rotate the flywheel until the piston is at the bottom. Then mark the flywheel with fingernail polish so you know where it's at without taking out the glow plug. I do this even after the engine is broken in with the hopes that it helps the engine last longer.

On my current engine (Omega 21), I have about 5 gallons through it and it's still a powerful engine with lots of compression.
 
WHOA........a full turn or a turn and a half is WAY too much. Never adjust the needle more than 1/8 turn at a time. Turn it in 1/8, then do the same type of driving for another 2 tanks, then turn it in 1/16 and start to drive it a little faster. If it runs good, leave it at that for 3 or 4 more tanks before you start to tune for performance. Keep a nice trail of smoke to stay safe. A temp gun, when tuning for performance is a must.
Slow and patient break in is the secret to a long living, reliable engine.
 
ok now my HSN is 4 1/2 turn out that's what the manual says it should be during the break in... after the break in it says it supposed to be between 2 1/2 and 3 turns from fully closed... so, my question is:
can i set it to, let's say, to 3 turns from fully closed for tomorow driving... or should i stay on 4 1/2 eventually turn it 1/8 down ???
cause what i would do, according to enigne manual, i'd turn it down to 3 from fully closed, is that correct??
and then eventually tune it down so it will be between 2 1/2 and 3 ?
 
Tune it leaner as you run it. Just go an 1/16 to 1/8 turn at a time between tanks or half tanks. Regardless what the manual says, tuning is different on all engines. You may find it performs best at 4 turns or 3 1/2 turns. Just do things gradually until it runs good and stable.

The high speed needle is for overall fuel flow and WOT (wide open throttle) tuning. As you lean the high speed, it's also having an effect on the low speed needle.

Just don't crank it down a full turn and expect good results. It takes time to learn what an engine wants so it can perform properly.
 
You need to adjust from 4-1/2 turns out and 1/8 turn at a time. Starting at that might get the engine to lean, not enough smoke, and cook your engine. It depends on what the temp. is and humidity is as to what the HSN needs to be at, don't adjust the LSN. I have about 2 gallons through and is still running like new with good compression, also when cooling try to put the piston to button dead end as this won't expand the sleeve.
 
Ok, that sounds reasonable, thank you...
and what about the low speed needle, does that need any adjustments, or just leave it flush with a coat ???

and what do you guys think about that article,
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11420
it sounds pretty proffesional, maybe i should just follow that...
or my engine is still pretty new for that kind of stuff?
bye
 

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