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how can i make this work?

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cisco-red

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ok i know i have bought the wrong engine sirio .18 with rotary carb and threaded shaft,anyone know how to make this engine work in a 2.5 t-maxx?
 
how can this work?

can a sirio .18 with rotary carb,threaded shaft work in a 2.5 t-maxx,if so what will i need to make it work besides the old style throttle and break linkage?please any help needed badly.
 
It will still work. You will just have to remove the bellcrank for the throttle linkage and hook up the linkage like an old style maxx. The shaft will need to be cut, get an AE cut nut, thread it on to the shaft, then use a dremel with a cut off disc to cut the shaft, remove the cut nut, bolt on you clutch nut, cluth, and clutch bell, and drop her in.
 
NCNitro said:
It will still work. You will just have to remove the bellcrank for the throttle linkage and hook up the linkage like an old style maxx. The shaft will need to be cut, get an AE cut nut, thread it on to the shaft, then use a dremel with a cut off disc to cut the shaft, remove the cut nut, bolt on you clutch nut, cluth, and clutch bell, and drop her in.
Click to expand...

wow that was a toung twister how did you spit that out..but ya do what NC said.
 
thanks,but i have already put it up for sale on ebay its 9.99 right now but i might just end it and get the stuff u were talking about.

are you sure that will work?
 
It should. I installed an OS 15 cv-r(x) on my maxx with the stuff I posted above. It had a standard threaded shaft with a rotary carb. I didn't use the cutter nut though, I just eyeballed it. I probably should have left another thread or two, but it worked out ok. When in doubt, cut it long. You can always cut it again.

Just be carefull with the carb linkage as it goes up and over the spur gear. I'd suggest getting a roll bar of some sort so when you land on your roof, it doesn't go WOT on you. Had that happen before I got the new era 3 point roll bar.

I've since replaced the engine with an orion wasp 18. I had to use the clutch adapter on it as well. And, that orion had a slide carb, so I ended up doing a lot of stuff to get it to work... I didn't like the 2.5 stock linkage. It always caused the carb to bind. I ended up installing a buggy tank where the receiver is, mounted the receiver on stand offs over the steering servo and moved the throttle/brake servo where the stock tank goes. No more binding and no more busted tanks. I've run about 2 gallons through the truck this way and it works really well.
 
i'm new at this well not that new but i'm still learning stuff,but how much do i cut off the crankshaft?like milimeters or whatever?and also how many threads should i leave on. i'm just asking this cause i have no idea,also what will the e-clip clip onto cause on the other shaft there is a slot where the e-clip clips onto,also another question,could i just get the 2.5 sirio crankshaft?
 
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you need to do what NCNITRO and olds said you just screw on the cut nut.cut it flush.w/the cut nut.take off the cut nut and install the clutch kit..

and the e clip your talking about you won't need it on that mill.The crank shaft should be threaded.so you need a machine screw and some clutch shims..
 
zandor22 said:
and the e clip your talking about you won't need it on that mill.The crank shaft should be threaded.so you need a machine screw and some clutch shims..
Click to expand...

If he's talking about the E clip that holds on the CB, he may need it. The traxxas clutch adapter has the groove. I can't remember if it's threaded as well though. I don't think mine is.
 
since you have to use the old linkage setup, flip the carb over on the engine and reverse the servo so that the throttle linkage is not directly over the spur gear, because sometimes it will get caught and fiddlesticks a bunch of poop up...it happened to me
 
You guys are as cruel as hell!!!!

Kepp up the good work.

You guys are as cruel as hell!!!!

Keep up the good work.
 
I am glad I am on the forums good side! WHEW!
 

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