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i think i will research the conversion kit and keep your knowledge in mind. i will look at those engines as well.
 
just kind of an rule of thumb FYI
.12 through .20 are generally small blocks.
.21 and up are typically big blocks.
the Big Red is a big block, and that thing tears up even 1/8 MTs, couldnt imagine it on a 1/10th. you could make it work but, it is a big block so motor mounts are different, as well as footprint. so it would take some chassis modification to be able to work, and some serious diff/driveshaft/transmission upgrades. that Dynamite Mach 2 .19ci and the TRX 3.3 are about the biggest small blocks that i know of.
the 3.3 has some controversy with performance and power, and longevity. (some people swear by them, some hate them down to the core.)
I've seen a few of the Dynamite .19 run in rigs in videos and seems to have great power. though the ones that i happened to watch were specialty/non typical vehicles.
 
ok thank you i will look into it. i am a beginner at all of this nitro stuff there are conversion kits. would i be able to get that and use it
 
i was wondering if i could just use the revo 3.3 big block conversion kit. is that close to the redcat tsunami
 
i was wondering if i could just use the revo 3.3 big block conversion kit. is that close to the redcat tsunami
sadly it is not, the revo has a very different suspension type. generally the conversion kits are pretty model specific.
what you could do is buy a big block motor mount.
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then remove the chassis.
id recommend either starting with a whole new plate and/or make chassis braces of some sort, that run the long ways of the truck (made a quick reference in cad:
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then you would need a clutchbell/flywheel/clutch shoes, from a big block.
drill the holes in the chassis for the engine mount so the clutch bell mounted on the engine will match closely to the spur (see note below), as the engine mount will be different than the stock one.
id highly recommend a flat reinforcement sheet of metal to sandwich between the engine mount and the chassis and also extends to reinforce the transmission/center diff.
NOTE: you will need a different spur gear (no idea what one will fit), as the gear pitches from SB and BB are different. (you may be able to buy a 1/8th redcat racing transmission to swap out your 1/10)
then you are to the center drive shafts, the stock one will not hold up, you will need to research and figure out how to custom mod/use another center driveshaft to fit between the trans and diffs.
then the diffs themselves, the stock ones wont last, i had an electric one with 3300kv motor and a 7.2v nicd, and it was not happy.
no idea what diffs would work but enough research modifications of stronger ones you may find something. (may also be able to get the 1/8th diffs and mod the chassis/diffs to mount?)
then it comes to the outer dogbones, may be able to find some at a length you will need depending on what differential you came up with.

imo would be a cool build but you would be so far into it by the time you were done you could have just bought a 1/8th truck already with a big block.
there just isn't an easy answer to what you are asking, and either way you decide to go i wish you the best with it.
that said i think you would be quite surprised how much more performance you can get out of a good engine.
 

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ok I could also just use my aluminum plate as well then I could just take the big block and place it in with the motor mounts and see whats in the way of it
 
ok I could also just use my aluminum plate as well then I could just take the big block and place it in with the motor mounts and see whats in the way of it
you are going to want a stiffener plate(s), i was getting chassis flex with a T-maxx on a .18, couldn't imagine with a .28.
 
One misconception about fans..
Fans do not cool air. They move air.
This is not going to help by "cooling" the air.
 
One misconception about fans..
Fans do not cool air. They move air.
This is not going to help by "cooling" the air.
think he was more thinking along the lines of a turbocharger effect over a cooling effect. auxillary coolers wouldn't be a good idea with these as it would give you a fall rich condition (if you tune off temps). i personally don't relay off temps, more the sound/responsiveness and try to err on the side of rich.
 
its not the resistant to breaking that is the issue, its the resistance to flexing. with as much torque as the big blocks can produce it will flex and chew up spur gears, and center driveshafts.
 
ok I will get a different spur gear and its 4 wheel drive so it should be fine with a higher tooth spur gear
 
No, you're still missing the point. A larger spur gear won't stop the chassis from flexing, which allows the spur and clutch bell gear mesh to change, thus chewing up the spur gear.
 
then how do i stop my big block from destroying the gears
more or less you will need to get 1/8th scale center CVDs, trans, and diffs, 1/8th scale typically use stronger beefier gears and a different gear pitch with larger teeth to handle the power.
 
sounds like a lot of money
kind of what i was saying when i put that long post about what you would need to do or keep in mind while building. chassis strength, all of the drivetrain gears, dogbones, driveshafts.
i mean I'm all for custom projects, but it doesn't seem that is the route you are wanting to go. Which is why i was pointing out the traxxas engine and the dynamite mach 2 .19 engines, direct drop in replacements and either are right around 100$
 
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