Hot Bodies Lightning Pro

[Jeff Cain]

:argue:
LOL You guys kill me! (Although I'm in the process of doing that exact same thing as we speak)

Actually I've just now changed my mind. I think the L1 C-hubs look stronger. I'm gonna stick with what I have for now. The L2 hubs are too reminicent of the Acer Racing AR-8 type.:censored: uke: :wban:

 

[rptorman]

Alright, you guys pissed me off now! I already have 2 monster trucks and a stadium truck, and after reading all this I feel like going out and getting a buggy. Why do you do this to me?

 

[CRSMP5]

honestly.. i still think I'm going to make my own radio tray set up.. and 22mm hub carriers have no meaning to me (it is a caster thing i beleive, why not shim the diff housing and bring the suspention up at 22mm? ).. and i have a feeling the price they show is a joke.. you can buy pro1 version for 290 off the web.. i would expect a 350$ street price when avaliable..

and no I'm not telling of my radio tray set up idea.. but it will weigh alot less, be alot simpler.. the next mod would be engine mount.. how to lower the engine... if i can drop it as low as it would go.. it would be more effective than turning 1 servo on its side..

 

[Jeff Cain]

Originally posted by CRSMP5
and 22mm hub carriers have no meaning to me (it is a caster thing i beleive, why not shim the diff housing and bring the suspention up at 22mm? )..

Yeah it's castor. More castor(aka more laid back c-hubs) makes the car steer more going into the corner, and less coming out. This means more rear traction and therefore more throttle when exiting a turn. The opposite is true of less castor.

Unfortunately, merely shimming the front bulkhead makes an inviting dirt gap between the chassis and the bulkhead. Kyosho accomplishes their castor changes via different castor blocks and/or upper suspension arms. I believe those parts will fit, as I'm currently using MP7.5 castor blocks with MP5 steering knuckles.

 

[alkyula]

Originally posted by rptorman
Alright, you guys pissed me off now! I already have 2 monster trucks and a stadium truck, and after reading all this I feel like going out and getting a buggy. Why do you do this to me?

after driving a buggy and seeing the handling, the speed, the jumping ability, the durability, you will take it home sit it on your work bench, look at it and all you can say is Dayum. this mother@%o!! is bad a$$!!!

 

[pigpen]

I am thinking of replacing my Ofna Ultra MBX upgraded to MBX. Do you think that the Lightning Pro is a step up? If so, how much and how? Thanks

 

[SCUBA Steve]

Hey guys... well I just got the new Lightning 2 Pro and I must say that it's pretty sweet. I'm doing some mods to the suspension and I'm trying to install different CVDs. Does anybody know of a differential output drive cup that would accomodate a larger (8mm) ball on the end of the CVD? I'll post some pics of what I'm doing once I make a little progress. Thanks!

 

[SCUBA Steve]

Originally posted by SCUBA Steve
Hey guys... well I just got the new Lightning 2 Pro and I must say that it's pretty sweet. I'm doing some mods to the suspension and I'm trying to install different CVDs. Does anybody know of a differential output drive cup that would accomodate a larger (8mm) ball on the end of the CVD? I'll post some pics of what I'm doing once I make a little progress. Thanks!

Savage diff cups fit perfectly and did the trick.

 

[CRSMP5]

i picked up a pro 2 today.. so here we go with lotsa pics.. so we know the differances..

on top of those visual changes, it has hardened diffs, 3.5mm shock shafts, rubber sealed bearings..

the white springs are also alot stiffer then the stock original yellow ones..

i see where you can bolt pro 1 suspention to this with no issue, it uses the same steering nuckles, the upper/lower arms and c hub is the only differance

the tank looks bigger.. i need to measure out the amount of fuel still though.. but to use the pro 2 tank in it the front anti flex rod needs moved, no room to do that on the 1st unless you change radio set up, to pro 2, and get th epro 2 bellcrank brace with additional hole..

the engine plates the mounts sit on are ALOT id say 2x as thick

the wing mount.. honestly the kani is still better.. the only differance is the part the wing affixes to, and its weaker, has nuts on the bottom of the bolts, but it does look nicer than the clips

comes with the same tires on dish wheels as the original pro 1

the body is a piece of art.. it is very nice.. i cannot say ill use it til i can get some clear ones..

the pro 1 body will fit it, but requires mods for the steering link, has a big cut out for it.

the pipe bash gaurd is cheesy

the chassis is the same, with a few additional holes in it.. has the original pro 1 locations still in it though..

why did i get it... honestly.. for the viewers.. i saw one, the mods they did were a good reason, i like the aluminum suspention holders, the tank looks much bigger, and i was sick of th eno posting pics of it.. so now there is pics posted on the web of the changes..

 

[lillightingboy21]

That thing is nice. I think now I'm gonna have to go and get some of the parts that they have upgraded. II like that buggy. I'm just going to hop up my lightning. But i am pleased with that thing.

 

[CRSMP5]

you have a pro or a rtr? my pro 1 is up for sale.. it has all the pro upgrades yours would lack.. and as a roller aka no engine/electronics 200 would get it.. ill even throw in a new clear body..

 

[Hypedonrc]

I did not read all 9 pages so if this is already in here sorry.

I bought an Ofna JP-1 pipe, and the header that comes with it hits the rear sway bar attachment on the A arm. I'll let you know if I come up with a fix, or if anyone already knows, I'd appreciate the advise. :depress:

 

[chevelledude33]

is a pro 1 still a decent buggy?

 

[Hypedonrc]

I have seen som at my local track, and the oners like them. I think they look ok. I'll tell you this, When looking for parts for my pro 2 it seems alot easier to find parts for the pro 1, and I think the 2 parts that changed are upgradable on the 1. Not for sure though.

 

[chevelledude33]

thanks

 

[Hypedonrc]

Originally posted by Hypedonrc
I did not read all 9 pages so if this is already in here sorry.

I bought an Ofna JP-1 pipe, and the header that comes with it hits the rear sway bar attachment on the A arm. I'll let you know if I come up with a fix, or if anyone already knows, I'd appreciate the advise. :depress:

Going to try the JP-1 pipe with the Ofna 086 header. It looks like it will work, and it is a free trade with someone else.

What pipe do you gus run?

Does anyone know if this is a problem on the Pro 1's?

:buggy1: :redbuggy:

 

[Mike 8 nitro]

Try an ofna 063. It's a bottom to mid range pipe. Alot of guys I know run this pipe. It will wake up the stock 21, works great on any engine. :thumbup:

 

[Hypedonrc]

I don't have any problems with the stock pipe. I just want it to be crome. I run an O.S. VZB if that helps your suggestions.

 

[Mike 8 nitro]

Check out the 063 pipe at Nitro house.com. It's a polished pipe. They have a good price on it $55-59. My lhs sell's them for $69

 

[Hypedonrc]

Broke my fn wing mount yesterday. Man that sucks. Anyone know for sure, I think thin is one of the things they changed between the 1's and the 2's? If so anyone know if a 1 wingmount will work? The only differance I saw for sure was the 1's use a post and body clip, and the 2's have a nut and bolt to hold the wing on.