• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Holy Shniky's

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

CorradoPsi

Hardcore RCTalk User
Messages
2,746
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
i took the XB8 out again today for the first time since i swapped the 8mm restrictor for the 9mm and i took off my JP-1 pipe in favor of my 086. damn, its like driving the V-spec all over again. just rediculous power, i have over a gallon through this motor already and id swear it just gets faster every time i take it out. I'm sure the grounds crew around here isnt going to like me much though. i took quite a few chunks out of the lawn throwing grass chunks for roost on takeoffs and doing doughnuts in the grass. this thing has enough power that i didnt even have to adjust the droop screws from my normal setting to keep from flipping. just punch the gas and she sits and spins, crazy.

i had so much fun i thought id share with you fellas.
 
Sounds awsome. I've heard a lot of great things about that mill. How is she to tune?
 
Also what is a droop screw?
I wish i could do that with my storm.(its broken:()
 
as far as tune goes. with the old setup and about 68-70 degree temps it was tuned to end the tank at about 237* i put on the new pipe, changed the restrictor and didnt touch any needles 2 weeks later. she ended the tank at 240*. it was about 62-65* out today. started first shot, never flamed out, it ran like i had just finished tuning it.

droop screws allow you to adjust the downtravel of your suspension arms. your storm can do it (once you have it fixed). the screws are located in your suspension arms and when threaded in, they push against the chassis to raise the arm. by limiting droop you can stop a car from traction rolling on a high grip surface.
 
i got a couple more tanks thru my v-spec today too, so thats about 5 tanks after break-in that I've ran thru the engine. (total of around 8-9 tanks of fuel including break-in) i swear the more fuel i run thru it the cooler it wants to run, but the more power it puts out, as today about same outside temps 68-70* i was running around 205-210* with more power than last time. without the glow plug the pinch is still very tight, and gets stuck sometimes still. i have a feeling when its fully broken in i will be scared of this motor.

BTW corrado, are you still running the extra head shim?
 
yes i still have the head shim in there. still running the P3 plug it came with too. a new one might yield better performance but this one still hasnt died yet.
 
sounds just like my 2 vspecs...

they really come alive right after the 1 gal mark...then you have the same amazing power for gallons to come...they hold tunes better than any other motor u will prolly run too...
 
its kind of strange, right before that run i pulled the motor apart for cleaning and inspection. there have been a few bad bearing reports around the 1 gallon mark so i checked mine out to be safe. no problem at all. i did notice that there is no cold pinch at all, but i have heard from several vspec owners that they have the same thing, and all the motors are running like raped apes. must be an OS thing, because an italian motor owner would say its junk with no cold pinch. but thats when the vspec seems to come alive.
 
I've also read that you should replace the main bearing in vzb's/v-specs with a boca bearing. i forgot where i read that from might have been this site. i still have alot of cold pinch, can't wait till i see this engines true power. but damn..i already have too much lol.

BTW corrado do you think the restrictor or the pipe had more of an affect on the power? oh and also I'm saving up for an XB8, so ill be running same mill and buggy as you next year lol.

and hey repete, mind i ask how much fuel you have ran thru your v-specs?
 
check your cold pinch with the plug out. mine still has a lot of compression with it in, and can be mistoke for pinch. i can't really say which had more of an effect since i did them both at the same time while the engine was out of the car. i think the JP-1 had a touch more bottom end to it. but it came "on pipe" with the 086 a little faster. both are good pipes. i know at least 2 magazines dynoed the engine and with a 2050 pipe the top end was stonger but it only made like 2.7hp. with the 086 the midrange was insane and it made 2.94hp. it just didnt rev quite as high with the 086 on it. for my tight track the low-mid range is where i need the power the most.
 
yes...with the plug out i still have quite a bit of pinch left, actually its pretty hard to turn it over past TDC with my hand with the plug out still. I'm guessing i have close to half a gallon thru the engine now. thx for the info on the pipes, I'm running a badly dented THS right now and will probably be going with an 086.

funny how you say it "only" made 2.7 hp with the 2050.
 
ya liked that huh? if felt wierd typing it too, if that makes you feel any better. the pipe I'm using is the power racing hard coated 086. its a pretty pipe, that seems to be built ok, and the alloy is harder and thinner than the jammin pipe, and it has a nicer flowing header like the jammin.
 
man you guys got me all hyped up....i bought a new v-spec like 2 weeks ago....i've only ran it like5 tanks and i gotta tell ya...the day i brought it home i had to take it apart because it was stuck at TDC....i still can't turn it over by hand when its cold....this motor flies like hell at temps of like 180-190....on 65 degree days....i can't wait to see it after a gallon....if you guys wouldnt mind....gimme some good ideas as to where my needles should be at the gallon mark....i have it now where it will only get to about 200....i don't wanna scald it like i did my last 21....and at 300 bucks i can't afford to....

corradoPsi hey ...lemme ask you a question....i'm fairly new to 1/8th scale and i just read that about the adjustment for the a-arm droop?...just curious because i run on high bite tracks here in tennessee and i DO have some serious problems with rolling over....which way do you go to correct it....i understand the droop effect....but on my hyper 7 pcr pro which way would i go to correct this?....would i scew em down into the chassis or loosen them (back them out)?

any help is appreciated...thanks
Mitch
 
heres what steve pond (the guy that dynoed the V-spec at 2.94hp with stock plug, shims, 9853 pipe and 30%) said:

"The last time I ran the engine, which was about 85 degrees and pretty humid, I ran the main needle at 2-1/4 turns open, mid-range was flush, and the low-speed was 3-1/4 turns open. You must set the low-speed needle when the carb is fully open. Otherwise threading the needle in until it stops will just cause it to jam in the nozzle and push the carb open. I'm not a big fan of going by needle settings however, because the conditions, fuel, glowplug, air filter and a few other things will all factor into the ideal needle setting. If these settings help get you in the ballpark, that's great, but don't rely on them for your settings because your conditions might require some adjustments."


the more fuel I've run thru my V-spec the cooler it wants to run. i cannot tell you were my needles are at, as i tend to jsut tune in a engine and not pay attention to how many in or out turns i am. i can say that my first performance tune after breakin of about 4 tanks the engine wanted to come off the track after a 20 minute main at about 240*, now having not touched the needles and with consistant weather since that day the engine I've seen it come off he track at around 195* with just a little over a half gallon thru it. with that i lean it out just a little so it stays at least above 200*.

tuning for performance with this engine is a little different, as at relatively low temps it puts out more power than any other engine I've ran. some may end up satified with the power from this engine and decide to temp it and it comes out 260*, but for me after driving it around the track and satified with the performance and temp the engine, it comes in at only 205* or so now. i can only imagine how much power it would have at around 260* now, honestly more than i could handle. too bad i smashed the crap out of my pipe yesterday, so i wont be racing tomorrow.
 
for your droop adjustment turn the screws in. when the chassis is supported with the wheels off the ground you will see the wheels come up as you turn the screw in. go in 1/4 turn increments until you stop rolling. and make sure you have equal droop left-right.
 
ok one word

V-SPEC.....

WOW!! what a motor. after break in it is still tight at the top

this is after
5 Qt of fuel

and i ran some today at the track

1qt and a Q before i had to run home.

Wow
first off before i every start the motor.

i heated it up to 240 then started it. every time I RAN THE MOTOR.

man the power of this thing is unreal.

ran it with Foil around the head.
with the foil i was over 210-230
untill the last tank of fuel and one Q
i
leaned her out with out the foil on the head and she was running
198deg. wow
top end was crazy. and it was 54 today i can not wait to see this
thing run at 230-250 after it breaks in.

i see i may have to get a extra rod for this motor. man it is super
tight like a Novarossi motor.

a rod is what 32 bones well worth the money. to put back into the
motor after some more break on this motor.

i going to sale my v01b's off and get other v-spec maybe 2 or 3 motor
for next year.

power is smoother than my vzb and way smoother than my v01b's

is it b/c of the turbo plug?
and this is just a 3 port motor. it feels like my 3 port mod i got
from Italian motor but way smoother. i think i'm in love again.

i realy see more v-spec to come.

YO MAMA!!! I KNOW WHAT I WANT FOR X-MAS.
 
Back
Top