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Help!!!!!!!

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Check your engine mount as well. Especially if it's stock cast aluminum as they crack pretty easily and it can be tough to notice until you take it apart. Then you realize it's in pieces.
 
So I rebuilt the rear diff completely. Gears and bearings and took the spool out. Replaced the clutch bell and bearings. Replaced the spur gear. Completely went thru everything and it was all 100% perfect. Went and raced it against a buddy's revo. My t maxx will outrun his revo easy. But he takes me on top end after a little bit. I know it's in the gearing. Well today I fired it up and ran it for 3 minutes. Stripped the spur gear. What gives??? It is a 3.3 but everything is leading to too much power. Is there a 3.3 racing motor? I bought the motor at the local hobby shop. Is it different or are all 3.3's the same? Cause my t maxx makes alot more power than his revo 3.3. And He has all plastic stuff just like I had and isn't stripping driveshafts or anything. I had exact same driveshafts as his revo has. He has more runtime on his driveshafts and they still are great. Exact same driveshafts in mine won't last 3 tanks of gas. All of this is pointing to me that the motor in my truck makes more power. BUT why?!?!?!?!?! I am going to order a steel spur gear as this is my only option at this point. Also have an extended chassis on the way. Did get it to piull straight though. Replaced all the shocks with piggyback shocks. Yes they are integy. But they seem to be pretty good for now. Also found out that one of the tires came unglued from rim on inside. Think this was my biggest problem with it not pulling straight.
 
You must not be meshing the gears correctly.....or over-tightening the slipper and landing jumps on the throttle. I think you should gear it higher to tame the power.

Did you upgrade all the shafts? Or just the centers?
T-maxx 2.5s do not have the same shafts as a revo, they are much weaker. Adding to that is the center shaft angle, which is the main reason t maxxes spit them out faster than revos do.
 
The centers were upgraded to steel. Outers were stock like exactly what comes on revo's. Ate them up with less than 3 tanks of fuel. Upgraded outers to vantage and no problems. Now spur gears. I have set them up with marking compound. There isn't a better way than that. I set up high dollar drag racing rearends same way.The wear was perfect. not too tight or loose. And wear wwas on center of teeth. Still ate them up. Everything that could possibly be a reason that everyone has mentioned is new. Still ate up spur gear twice. So I am going to upgrade to robinson racing 8465 and be done with it. Tired of fixing this thing.
 
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That's not the best way to set the mesh, sorry.
It's done by feel, basically as tight as possible while allowing free movement.
Don't forget the hardened clutch bell with your spur.
 
One more thing to check if you still have plastic chassis braces, is if your throttle servo has too much pull it can tweek
the chassis enough to jam the CB into the spur.
Mine ate 4 spurs till I saw it tweek the chassis as I was looking at something else.

Page 32 in the manual tells you how to adjust the 2nd gear shift point.
http://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/4910-Owners-KC0404-R01.pdf
 
You need to get a smaller spur and a larger bell..
yes BOTH
Then go from there
 
Anyone know what size screws the robinson racing 8476 are? Can't find the size online anywhere.
 
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