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help with lower swing arm pins

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mrwill

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while out bashing the new savage today, I managed to flex the plastic skid plate enough to allow the lower swing arm pin to come out with all the trouble that entails (lost dog bone, almost lost the swing arm) is there a mod to stiffen up the retainers for the lower pin? perhaps using one of the holes that is unused in the bottom?? IDK, I need advice. shoot my t-maxx wouldn't have broken like that... plastic pieces would have gone everywhere lol
 
I have never seen that happen. but if you wanted, you could drill a 3/32 hole in the side of the bulkhead brace where the pin goes through and install a grub screw to sinch the pin. Then the tab's on the skid plates wouldent even be needed.
 
I knew it!! another first for the willmeister!! I excell at breaking things in ways they weren't designed to be broken! I am going to look at that idea. thanks bro.
 
Man... I've never done that either and I beat my savage pretty hard! I've run over 18 gallons through that thing and never had a hinge pin pop out on me.

Are you missing parts somewhere? I'm kind of curious how you can get the skid to flex that much if all the screws and parts are where they are supposed to be.
 
GPM makes lower hinge pins that have e clips on both ends. I am currently running them in my truck and they work great.
 
acording to the manual, I have all the parts. but there are a bunch of holes down on the bottom that don't have anything in them
 
anybody got a pic of the bottom of their rig? so I can see, I was looking at the savvy on the bst fourm and I have all the screws that he has. mabey it was the 30mph flips...
 
Last edited:
Front skid:
2006-0219-SavageSkidSkidFrontBottom.jpg


Rear Skid:
2006-0219-SavageSkidSkidRearBottom.jpg


The front skid on mine has 2 extra bolts from the bottom than stock. I have 2 cross members to give it more strength instead of just the stock 1.

Also, this is a savage 21 chassis which should be the same as all savage's except for the savage X. It might be a little different.
 
thanks olds97 lss, where did you pick up that cross member? I like the idea, why didn't hpi do that?
 
Actually, I just bought a couple packages of the cross member that the engine plate bolts too and used those. They work perfectly and are about $5 cheaper than an aftermarket aluminum piece that is made for that spot.

These: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLE3&P=7

As opposed to these: http://www.hobbyetc.com/cgi-bin/item.cgi?part_id=25326

I don't know why they didn't do it... they made all the holes for it. All I did was bolt it in. Only the front allows room for it and holes for it. The rear doesn't.
 
If you have a stock motor mount plate with the braces that run across for the TVP mounts you can use those in place of the plastic braces.
 
I am starting to get an attitude with my savage, thought the oneway was going out, thought to myself "self get a new owb and ... oh wait the engine is not sealed, better take it apart and seal it. well looking inside the motor, I notice that the little starter pin (p/n 1433) is worn and rounded, take it out in the garage, and the spring jumps out and lands in the grass in my yard (could have been the compressed air I was using to remove the gunk in the engine) anyway I think to my self "self there are 14 million people in the vicinity of your house, a lhs ought to have that" no they don't so now she sits while tower sends me a new spring and pin... I can get parts for the anti-christ (t-maxx) all day long but no savage parts!!! by the way the owb is fine!!
dang!!
 
yes, since I was already buying, I got those too, my wife wants to know why a 3.87 part cost 52.00, I told her shipping. lol
 
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