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help w/ conv. kit
- Thread starter pkg2003
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StrechM
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This is the only 'complete' kit that I'm aware of. You should be able to pick it up for about $150 without engine. I have one and the fit and finish is fine but it won't hold up to a beating like some of the other more expensive makes.
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Search/Results.aspx?SearchTerm=t+maxx+kit
These are better, HCR, RC Solutions, UE, JT and there are more...you will get what you pay for. They are typically sold in part form or grouped parts only.
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Search/Results.aspx?SearchTerm=t+maxx+kit
These are better, HCR, RC Solutions, UE, JT and there are more...you will get what you pay for. They are typically sold in part form or grouped parts only.
StrechM
Hardcore RCTalk User
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- RC Driving Style
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Don't take me wrong pkg2003, the Dynamite conversion works great it's just not as heavy duty as some others mentioned. It's very lightweight and will kick some serious butt. It is probably one of the least expensive and most complete on the market. Here's mine before completion with the .26.
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2747&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2747&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500
The XTM kit isn't bad, but it does have a few qwerks that piss me off contiually. I don't know if other kits suffer some of the same shortcomings of the XTM kit or not, considering i have only the one.
As I said, i have the XTM kit. It's as complete as they come, at least as i could find. And you can get it for $120. I opted for the OS 21RG-X(P). It's kind of low on the horsepower, but it isn't a slouch either. Right out of the gate (after break in of course), i was pulling dead stop wheelies on command. But beleive it or not, this does get old.
As for the problems,
#1: the throttle/brake linkage requires quite a bit of tweeking to get it right. The servo for this mounts right in between the gas tank and the battery box. I'm using a servo arm that is straight with holes on both sides off of center. After mangling the brake wire to get the linkage right, it locks up the tires and does a front endo.
#2: After getting the manifold and pipe together and getting it on the engine, you mount the engine. Problem with mine was that 2 of the engine mounting screws from underneath, are directly under the center rear cvd. I actually had to bend the cvd (not a permanent bend mind you) to get the losi wrench in the bolt. I also didn't have long enough slide holes for the engine bolts and had to dremel out about 1/8" to be able to get the correct gear mesh.
#3: After mounting the engine, i proceeded to put on the gas tank, it rubs on the side of the engine pull start mechanism. Again, a little careful grinding on the pullstarter housing and the seam in the gas tank to get clearance. I wanted a little clearance to avoid excessive foaming and cracking the tank with chassis twist.
#4: Spur gear replacement. Again with the throttle/brake servo in the spot that is recommended in the instructions will require you to either A) remove the tranny completely to replace a spur gear, or B) remove a chassis bar underneath to take the servo mounts screws out to be able to take the spur gear off and also remove the engine to get the clearance needed to get it off. (i think engine removal would be a must anyway for this.)
#5: The lower chassis braces bolt holes on the ends that connect to the front and rear skid plates are not drilled and tapped all the way through. This requires you to use very short screws for this that have a tendency to walk out on you even when using blue locktight.
#6: With everything put together. The header is extremely close to the rear shocktower. On hard end-over-end crashes, the shock tower flexes enough to dent up the header. (minor issue)
#7: The cvd's main pin that holds them together, set screw, has a tendency to walk on you as well. I've lost 2 of the pins to date. The last time i doused the grub screws with a lot of locktight and they seem to be holding up.
Other comments:
As for the CVD's breaking, i haven't had one break yet. It may be due to the OS's low horse power (1.8-2). But i have had the trans outdrive cups get severe groves wore in them from the dogbones. $6 for 2 new cups. I have 4 on hand and a full replacement set of cvd's from XTM. For $25 a pair (f/r axle) i don't think you can beat them.
I personally went with the OS for the 21 torque and the OS reliability. I also picked the lower hp engine to save on constant rebuilding of diffs and trans parts. I've got over a gallon through it and have only redone the rear diff once and replaced the trans 4992 (Drive Gear - 2 speed) once.
Hope this helps you and maybe someone else since i typed a small novel... happy rebuilding.
Oh, almost forgot, here's the link to the kit i bought. It was the cheapest i found.
http://store.yahoo.com/hobby-warehouse/xtmtmax21alc2.html
And hobby people have all the XTM replacement parts:
www.hobbypeople.net
As I said, i have the XTM kit. It's as complete as they come, at least as i could find. And you can get it for $120. I opted for the OS 21RG-X(P). It's kind of low on the horsepower, but it isn't a slouch either. Right out of the gate (after break in of course), i was pulling dead stop wheelies on command. But beleive it or not, this does get old.
As for the problems,
#1: the throttle/brake linkage requires quite a bit of tweeking to get it right. The servo for this mounts right in between the gas tank and the battery box. I'm using a servo arm that is straight with holes on both sides off of center. After mangling the brake wire to get the linkage right, it locks up the tires and does a front endo.
#2: After getting the manifold and pipe together and getting it on the engine, you mount the engine. Problem with mine was that 2 of the engine mounting screws from underneath, are directly under the center rear cvd. I actually had to bend the cvd (not a permanent bend mind you) to get the losi wrench in the bolt. I also didn't have long enough slide holes for the engine bolts and had to dremel out about 1/8" to be able to get the correct gear mesh.
#3: After mounting the engine, i proceeded to put on the gas tank, it rubs on the side of the engine pull start mechanism. Again, a little careful grinding on the pullstarter housing and the seam in the gas tank to get clearance. I wanted a little clearance to avoid excessive foaming and cracking the tank with chassis twist.
#4: Spur gear replacement. Again with the throttle/brake servo in the spot that is recommended in the instructions will require you to either A) remove the tranny completely to replace a spur gear, or B) remove a chassis bar underneath to take the servo mounts screws out to be able to take the spur gear off and also remove the engine to get the clearance needed to get it off. (i think engine removal would be a must anyway for this.)
#5: The lower chassis braces bolt holes on the ends that connect to the front and rear skid plates are not drilled and tapped all the way through. This requires you to use very short screws for this that have a tendency to walk out on you even when using blue locktight.
#6: With everything put together. The header is extremely close to the rear shocktower. On hard end-over-end crashes, the shock tower flexes enough to dent up the header. (minor issue)
#7: The cvd's main pin that holds them together, set screw, has a tendency to walk on you as well. I've lost 2 of the pins to date. The last time i doused the grub screws with a lot of locktight and they seem to be holding up.
Other comments:
As for the CVD's breaking, i haven't had one break yet. It may be due to the OS's low horse power (1.8-2). But i have had the trans outdrive cups get severe groves wore in them from the dogbones. $6 for 2 new cups. I have 4 on hand and a full replacement set of cvd's from XTM. For $25 a pair (f/r axle) i don't think you can beat them.
I personally went with the OS for the 21 torque and the OS reliability. I also picked the lower hp engine to save on constant rebuilding of diffs and trans parts. I've got over a gallon through it and have only redone the rear diff once and replaced the trans 4992 (Drive Gear - 2 speed) once.
Hope this helps you and maybe someone else since i typed a small novel... happy rebuilding.
Oh, almost forgot, here's the link to the kit i bought. It was the cheapest i found.
http://store.yahoo.com/hobby-warehouse/xtmtmax21alc2.html
And hobby people have all the XTM replacement parts:
www.hobbypeople.net