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Help ME!!!!

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Labelle

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I'm new into R/C, i lost my truck for a summer when i found that my engine was defective. i've got it back now and have went through 2 fly-wheels because they don't fit tight to my clutch belt, ebery time i put the engine in right, lock tight it down, after driving for a couple of minutes it comes loose a ruins the fly-wheel. i don't know how to fix it, if u go please reply. the truck is a hpi nitro rush 2wd stadium truck.

thanks for your help, labelle
 
Take your clutch bell and flywheel off and every thing else and make sure you completely inspect every surface and make sure there are no burrs on the crankshaft then try to put every things back together...
 
Yup, step one is to make sure the flywheel, clutch and clutch bell are assembled correctly. One word.....LOCTITE. When you go to put it all together, make sure you put a drop of blue Loctite on the screw that holds the clutch bell onto the crankshaft. Also make sure you put Loctite on the screws that mount the engine to the engine mount and the screws that mount it all to the chassis. Sounds to me like the screws are coming loose and the clutch bell is coming off....

Oh, and another thought. If the flywheel is loose, are you forgetting to put the collet on first? The collet is the brass cone-shaped split washer that goes on first, then the flywheel goes over that....
 
Put shims on before the collet. You have to eyeball it before locking everything down. But figure out how much space there should be behind the flywheel and engine, then put some steel shims in to give the collet something to rest against. When you tighten the flywheel down, the collet won't be able to move back on you due to the shims. This will ensure a much better bite on the crank/collet/flywheel connection.
 
First off, he has a rush. The stock engine does not use a collet. The reason you can not get the pilot shaft tight enough is because you are not using a picton locking tool. Go to your lhs and ask for a piston locking tool and ask them if they would show you how to use it. Use a glowplug wrench to tighten the flywheel as far as that mofo will go. BE SURE TO USE THREADLOCK ON THIS STEP!!!!!!!! Next, install the clutch shoes and springs according to how the manual says. Then, put the shims (washers) according to the manual, slide on the clutch needle bearing, slide the clutch bell over it, put another washer on AFTER the CB, then use THREADLOCK to tighten the screw to the pilot shaft. You now have your clutch assembled. Now, take out the flywheel and install the engine.


P.S.- Did I mention to use THREADLOCK? :hammer:


Let me know if you are using a different than stock engine. If you are using the stock engine, I AM RIGHT!!!!! :idea: :hammer: and everyone else is wrong. (no offense) Trust me, I've had a rush for a few years, and I've taken the flywheel off a few times before.
 
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hpig1615.jpg


The flywheel has the special "hole" if you will; that fits the crank, a few small block engines are like that.
 
Oh, kind of like a spline or something?

I wonder why they don't do that to all engines? Must be like a last resort of protection to use the collet in case some idiot bypasses everything else that should slip. Or if a rock gets stuck between the flywheel and chassis, that way it doesn't brake the crank shaft.
 
you guy,s (not all but most of you) are forgeting that its a newby ,,,and lets not forget that we was a newby at one point in time and too much (wrong)info could get prety confusion so if you are not sure than dont confuse,,,,,,
 
Well I wouldn't use a piston locking tool, especially if you're new to the hobby. I've seen many a macho-man give the flywheel a good reef and punch a hole in the piston. You can remove the backplate, and insert an EXTREMELY CLEAN plastic rod or something into the crankcase to lock the crankshaft against the inside of the crankcase, being careful your lock-point doesn't rest against the bottom of the con rod. Use this method to get it SNUG, not TIGHT, then using a rag (so you don't bung up the flywheel) and channel locks, grip the flywheel nice and tight for the last umph.
 
rocknbil said:
Well I wouldn't use a piston locking tool, especially if you're new to the hobby. I've seen many a macho-man give the flywheel a good reef and punch a hole in the piston. You can remove the backplate, and insert an EXTREMELY CLEAN plastic rod or something into the crankcase to lock the crankshaft against the inside of the crankcase, being careful your lock-point doesn't rest against the bottom of the con rod. Use this method to get it SNUG, not TIGHT, then using a rag (so you don't bung up the flywheel) and channel locks, grip the flywheel nice and tight for the last umph.
Click to expand...

Honestly, punching a hole through the piston is highl unlikely. Use common sense and stop tightening after you can feel the resistance you find. I like the piston locking tool as there is less to take apart like you suggested. Your method may be better but doing what you suggest may be a little too much for the Noobie to try. I say along with the piston locking tool use Blue Loctite to prevent from backing out.
 
Ooolllld subject guys. If he's still havin problems (4 months since he posted?) w/ the flywheel, He needs to buy a new motor! LoL Just messin guys, but yeah - that was posted July 11th, not Nov 7th.
 

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