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Help Me Out Please

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TriGGeR

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I am planning on buying a new HPI Savage 25 .. could u guys possibly tell me some precautions to take and what to go ahead and buy while i am at the hobby store. i currently own a traxxas nitro rustler and it sux god i hate it everything is plastic and it always is breaking on me so i said screw it and am planning on buying the savage i just am not sure what to look out for?

Help me out please
 
Hi

This is my first post here and i will try to help you out....You should get a hitec 645 servo for the steering and a kimbrough 124 servo saver,A 6Volt hump pack with a new switch harness that has a charge jack built into it so you won't have to open that damn small radio box all the time....If you really want a reliable truck i suggest doing the 4 spider diff mod to your front and rear diff also...The savage only has 2 spider gears but you can buy some sloted shaft and 2 set of spider gears to redoo the diffs...IF you do the diff mod you will need some diff oil...I ran 3k in the rear and 5 k in the front in my savage and it was working great....

I would probably buy some HD dogbones as spare just in case and probably some starter one bearing has i heard the rotor start really like to chew them up.....

I had a savage .21 upgraded with a .25 engine but sold it but i am buying a new one in 2 weeks...
 
thnks

thanks for your help i will consider what u said I'm only 14 finally got enough money for this so i can't you know just like go and buy it all at once what do u think i should buy like in order or sumthin

I'm not really tryin to make this thing a monster i am just want to see what to look out for. like i said i am new and all i just want a good truck without having to put alot of money into it........ what will break the easiest that kinda stuff help me out again if u can thanks
 
Welcome to RCNT!! All in all that's pretty good advise, but the first thing I would strongly recommend you buy is an in line fuel filter and a high performance air filter (Motor Saver is a good one) and your LHS should have both of these items on hand as well, you will probably spend about $30 tops on the 2 of them, the 25 already has a good set of dogbones in it, if you are going to upgrade the dogbones I would suggest getting M.I.P. CVD's, they will transfer the power to the wheels much better than standard dogbones, though this upgrade is one that can wait, I would say the upgrade on the servo could wait until you absolutely need it, I have Jumbo Kong tires on my Savage 25 and the stock servo handles them with ease, the hump pack is a great suggestion, you really don't want to have to open the rx box unless it's really necesary to do so since it is a real pain in the ass to open and close the box..........the diff mod could also wait unless you really want to do it, you can however put the gear oil in the stock diff's for the possi track action, I am going with 120,000 weight in mine.
OK, now something that usually breaks for newbies is the "one way bearing", this is a bearing on the rear of the motor that turns the crank to start it, if the engine floods while you try to start it and you keep trying to crank it thus putting a lot of strain on it, the bearing will fail and you will be spending about $18.00 for a new one, the very best advise I can give you is when you get the new Savage home before you do anything else READ THE INSTRUCTION BOOKS FIRST.........mainly the smaller of the 2 books that covers your engine, this will tell you how to break it in correctly, if it gets confussing we are always here to help you in anyway that we can, hope you have much fun with your new Savage!
 
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Thanks for your help man

Thanks for the help what kind of hump pack do u suggest i get.. and i am going to go ahead and buy a one way bearing when i buy the truck i have had some trouble with those before so i am goin to go ahead and get one of them.. and do any of you know a way to fix the wheel stripping problem i have read about that.. i was wonderin if ther was something that i could use to prevent it or sumthin that would substitute it while I'm runnin and if it happens to breaks

i wont even have to buy the fuel filter i have one of them on my rustler and i will just take it off.

is it hard to break this truck in and when i first got my rustler is was a pain in the ass to break in and tune so if you could give me some tips on that!

Thanks again guys
 
I have a Reedy hump pack in mine, BUT I also had to get a new on/off switch for it, I used a Futaba switch harness/charge cord, this provides the correct connection for the hump pack and also gives you an extra cor to leave hanging out of the rx box for easy charging, that cost $10.00 and is part number FUTSWH13........breaking in the Savage was really easy, on the first tank if you notice the idle is steadily increasing you'll need to adjust the idle screw to decrease the idle, since you don't want it to run at wide open throttle untill the break in process is complete.
 
wat shocks

What shocks would u recommend getting for a cheap price that are still great shocks...I'm just going to get the best fuel filter my LHS has... i still am not sure wat you guys are talking about in a hump pack and how to make it wher i dont have to open the back or sumthin like that... you wouldnt be able to show me some pictures would u

what would you recommend using to get the greasy dirt and dust stuck to my truck off.. like i noticed on my rustler after i run it on a wet soggy day it has like really oily dirt all over i never could get it off without taking everything apart and rebuilding it. i hope i wont have to go through that again and i want to keep it sparkling kleen when i get in from a good day of running! hopefully that doesn't sound fruitcakeish but. I really appreciate u guys helping me out
 
OK, here is a hump pack, it don't have to be the exact name brand as shown here, but you can take this info to your LHS and he can hook you up........http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=7

Here is the switch, again the same would apply here, take this info to your LHS and he can hook you up.........http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL303&P=7

As for cleaning, alot of us use Denatured Alcohol, you can get this at any hardware store and is much cheaper than the stuff the LHS wants to sell you, also if you have an air compressor it can be used for blowing off dust and cleaning..........as for shocks, these are not going to be cheap, the stock shock should do you good for now, if you want to change from firm to softer suspension, just change the spring set, cost about 1/4 the cost of shocks............
 
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thnks

Thanks man u have been a big help .... if any1 else has any advice please post it
 
Dude, put a Pull Start on that thing, you will love it. I burnt up that one way too many times. After I threw the pull start on I have had nothing but fun times. My savage has about 5-6 tanks of gas through it and it starts on the 2nd pull EVERY time. If your engine gets hydrolock the pull start will let you know....you wont be able to pull it easily. Acts kind of like a safey thing so you dont jack up the engine or bearing. Its also nice not to have to lug that rotostart around with you, especially at the BMX track. Start out with 1 brand of full and use that all the time, your engine will get used to it and your carb settings will be more stable.

new air filter

Possibly rims and tires, I run Proline BigJoe's 40 Series tires on Proline 40 Series rims. Improved handling a ton.

This is all i have done with my savage25 and Its a G*D D$m Beast. Hope this helps.
 
the best hop up before break in is a motorsaver airfilter which is really important and also a tuned pipe ....the others can follow ..and b4 u buy those nice lookin plastic wheels id rather get aluminum wheels cuz I'm pretty sure ur gonna end up stripping them like me thats why i regret why i didnt get aluminum rims from the start ..the amount of $$ i spent on rims sums up more than the price of aluminum rims..I've had velocity6 40series/big joes,ufos and some extra stock rims ..imo the 1st 2 are the most important
 
just as a preventive measure i would wrap the receiver in a balloon and zip the end very snug so no water can enter the receiver.....

Looks like i am getting old i had totally forgot about the air filter and fuel filter....BUt the air filter is very important as the stock airfilter doesn't offer enough protection for your engine....Buying a motorsaver airfilter is like gving your engine a second chance...

BTW this is a nice forum glad I found it.....
 
thnks again guys

Thanks again i will be sure to keep that pullstart in mind and definatly the motosaver filter..... i will prob buy a pullstart and keep it for extra when i am screwin around and the rotostart screws up i will slap it on ther.. would it be alright to run maybe a tank of 30% every now and then or would that burn it up
 
My son and I have 2 Savages: a 21 and an SS. The stock wheels are pretty much useless as the hex's will round out in no time. I'd suggest some new wheels but I wouldn't spring for the aluminum ones.. We've got 1 set of Prolines and 1 set of RPM's and neither set shows any wear after lots of thrashing. Also, locking hex's are very worthwhile as the first time you pull a wheel outdoors and your drive pin falls out, you're goin home early...

Since you have a limited budget, I'd suggest you keep it simple and just upgrade as things break, that's what we've done and we've learned first hand what we need to spend money on.
Good luck and enjoy your truck!

One last thing...Keep a close eye on the motor back plate...no matter what, they can come loose and you'll have a nasty air leak and little bits of aluminum dripping out your exhaust pipe...
 
thnks

Thanks for your help. i am still not sure about weather to buy threadlock and go ahead and prevent the motor backplate or wait and see wat happens
 
Originally posted by BigBlockRc
My son and I have 2 Savages: a 21 and an SS. The stock wheels are pretty much useless as the hex's will round out in no time. I'd suggest some new wheels but I wouldn't spring for the aluminum ones.. We've got 1 set of Prolines and 1 set of RPM's and neither set shows any wear after lots of thrashing. Also, locking hex's are very worthwhile as the first time you pull a wheel outdoors and your drive pin falls out, you're goin home early...

Since you have a limited budget, I'd suggest you keep it simple and just upgrade as things break, that's what we've done and we've learned first hand what we need to spend money on.
Good luck and enjoy your truck!

One last thing...Keep a close eye on the motor back plate...no matter what, they can come loose and you'll have a nasty air leak and little bits of aluminum dripping out your exhaust pipe...
Click to expand...

Stock rims usualy go bad due to user error.........if you put a little blue loc tite on the studs before you put the nut on and tighten it down you won't have to worry about it coming loose and stripping out the rim, the difference between the Savage 21 and the Savage 25 is everything that was a weak point or just crap on the 21 has been upgraded for the 25, the back plate issue...most of the Savage 25 boxes are going to have a "Red X" on the bottom of the box, this is supposed to mean that HPI has fixed the problem for the back plate screws by putting on Red loc tite and propperly torquing the screws, if you want to double check it when you get it home, here is what you need to do, http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=68008
just goto that link and follow the directions, very easy process..... you can find red and blue loc tite at any auto parts store and most hardware stores, just so you know I would only use red loc tite on the back plate since it is very hard to get the screws back out after it sets up, the blue is good to use for everything else since it is a medium hold and you can take the scews out without the worry of stripping a head.
 
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Thnks

Thanks alot man i really appreciate all of your guys help... what about the reverse has any1 had any trouble it?. and does any1 know about a fuel filter with a pump?
 
i installed the reverse, and i messed up sumthig becuz it wuld not work at all, i took it into the hobby shop and will find out sumtime this week what happened
 
Question

why do people put zip ties on the top of the cooling head on ther engine i dont understand it?
 
The zip ties you see on top of the cooling head is a "cheap insurance", if you are running without the body on your truck and it happens to roll or flip the zip ties will help a lot in protecting the cooling head from being scraped or damaged from an impact.
I wouyld like to eventually get the reverse mod, but haven't as of yet, pissant has it, but had problems after he installed it, hopefully his LHS gets it going for him, I would like to hear his comments on it, some of the mods can be tricky in doing and is sometimes wise to do in the presence of an experienced hand or your LHS if possible, just incase you run into trouble it is nice to have a safety net there, plus it makes it a much more enjoyable learning experience since nothing else gets messed up due to an inocent mistake that was saved by the more experienced party, remember you are never too old to learn something new!
 
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