Help I keep flooding my car :-0

[Corpse0]

Hi guy's I have an HPI .12r ss and just about every time I try to start it I flood it. I normaly start off with no fuel in the fuel line only in the tank! The Tank has a primer on top. How do I prime this thing so I dont flood it? I know how to un-flood it. But I can't find any info on priming

 

[Bryson]

In order to prime a engine you cover the exahust with your finger and start it as you normally do, once fule reaches the engine its primed. But if your having trouble starting it your glo plug may be bad. Check it by taking it out and sticking it in the glo starter. Hope this helps!

Bryson

 

[olds97_lss]

If you want to use the primer and not the exhaust plug method that Bryson suggested, only prime until the fuel has reached the carb. Watch it go up the line and stop pumping when it hits the carb. The engine sucking air when you try to start it will get the fuel flowing.

It's not a lawnmower that you prime and prime and prime...

 

[Corpse0]

Thanks guy's I will try each to see what works best. I also was thinking some of my problems mite be that the roto start is turning too slow. I'm new to this sport so lamens terms please LOL. BTW the glow plug is working great any other ideas or things I could try before I take it in?

 

[jetmechG550]

One thing, what type of glow ignitor are you using? It may not have enough umphh to get the plug hot enough to light off which would end up flooding the mill.

 

[Corpse0]

its a racers edge 1800mah. When I tested the glow plug it smoked but I didnt put it on the ignitor all the way just enough to see it glow. How can I tell if the eng. needs rebuilt what should I look for?

 

[Racer 1966]

How can I tell if the eng. needs rebuilt what should I look for?

Check for compression by turning the flywheel by hand. Should get tight then pop as it goes over the top. If it spins easily with little to no pop, you're probably in need of some work.

 

[jetmechG550]

Check for compression by turning the flywheel by hand. Should get tight then pop as it goes over the top. If it spins easily with little to no pop, you're probably in need of some work.

Check it warm, not cold.

 

[Corpse0]

Its been cold here like below zero LOL but i did have it running for about 5 min. ok well thanks for all your help

 

[jetmechG550]

Running in extreme cold, outdoors, is kinda difficult. Wrap the head to help keep the temps up.

 

[Corpse0]

ok I'm also going to try keeping the car inside for a couple of hours then try

 

[jetmechG550]

Use a sock or some tin foil and wrap it around the head. If you have a heat gun, warm up the motor for a few minutes before you start it, if you don't have aheat gun, a hair dryer will work. Also what I meant by checking it warm was if you can get the engine to run for a minute or two and it dies, then check the compression, turn the flywheel in the direction of rotation and if it turns over really easy, you may have the problem there. A cold sleeve (engine) may show some pinch but will really loosen up once it's warm. One other thing, do you have a temp gun?

 

[Corpse0]

Well nothing seemed to work so I went and got a new motor today Its a O.S. 18 CV-R its great. I'v started the break in but I'm not sure about a few things
1 the booket said the run it for a couple of short times with the glow plug on, then take it off and richen the mix and run it a little. and that where I'm at. I'm not sure whats else I need to do from here, I know I need to taker it slow for about 5 tanks and I'm on #3 now

 

[olds97_lss]

Try the heat cycle method. It's been working well for me for about 4 years. I've broken in 8-10 engines with this method and I get strong, long lasting performance every time.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y116/ImBroken8/breakin.jpg

Here's a thread discussing it: https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40071&highlight=break

 

[jetmechG550]

I've been running my mills in using the heat cycle for about 10-15 minutes, then on the track they go.

 

[Corpse0]

LOL thats kinda what I've started doing LOL after the first step discr. I'm loveing it, so much torc. Thank you guys for all your help, maybe I'll post some pic's when I get some taken before I reck it .

 

[Corpse0]

I been running it in half tank cycles leting cool between and I've been keeping it rich so it lubing good but it has yet to fail starting first try every time. It rocks

 

[Corpse0]

Heres some pics
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/Corpse101/DSC00271.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/Corpse101/DSC00274.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/Corpse101/DSC00275.jpg

 

[jon2]

In that first pic, is that header dented? Looks pretty bad.

 

[olds97_lss]

You have no idea how much that damaged header is robbing from your engine. It really screws up the air flow coming back to keep the charge in the engine.

Xtreme RC did a before and after on their dyno with a header (or pipe, I want to say header) that had a dent. Their dent wasn't nearly as bad as yours. They reported significant difference in loss of power output and peak RPM loss.