Help/advice

[bazzly]

I'm not sure if I should post this here...but here I go.

For starters...I'm a noob...I bought the LST XXL and decided to give it a go today. (First time ever) So I read the manual, look things over, plug things in, fuel it up, and use the starter.

It starts...runs for about 6 seconds. I thought...no big deal...I'll try the pull start. Go and give a "small" pull.....the pull started came out. (the line) So now I'm thinking...that sucks. Ok lets try with the starter....nothing.....I try this for several minutes. No luck.

I decide to look at the carb....

I already am getting a bad first impression at this point.

So I look at the cab, and find the high 2 3/4 from the top, and the low 2 1/2 from top. Now I should have known something was up when I saw fuel coming out of the exhaust. But being a noob...I'm thinking...that must be normal...its factory setup.

So I put them all the way down, and take them to the factory (high 2 3/4 from bottom, and low 2 1/2 from bottom)

Ok now it turns over but only runs for a moment. (I'm thinking this could be because the thing is saturated with fuel.) I finally get it to start and run for about 20 seconds. A few times. So now I decide to be quick...I start it get the remote and have it take off. Within a minute it starts to over heat, so I shut it down right away.

I decided to give up for the night and wait for tomorrow.

So a few questions...
Does the LST team have a quality control?
Has anyone run into something like this.
Any advice what I should do next?

I bought this thing because it says its a ready to run car, but I spent a few hours on it just trying to figure out what was messed up. I have to say...at this point I'm a bit upset, and not feeling to good about LST.

So any words of advice?

 

[Racer 1966]

Your biggest problem is misunderstanding what "ready to run" is. It means everything you need is in the box(except batteries and fuel) to run the truck but you absolutely MUST do a proper break-in on the engine before you start letting'er rip. There should be a section in the manual on break-in or read the heat cycle method HERE

A little patience and doing right in the begining will go a long ways toward your enjoyment level later on.

 

[bazzly]

I did read the manual, and the break-in, but no matter what I did I could not keep the car running.

To top all the other problems, the starter when I first went to use it was broken. Easy fix yes (The black was unseated) but still...user experience should not be like that. I get a feeling I will be using this forum a lot.

So the last time I tried, I ran it for a short moment. (the manual says to run 3 tanks for break-in, and you can run it per the manual... just not hard) The only reason I ran it was to keep the engine running. If it sat at idel it would die. So my problem is...just keeping the engine running at idol.

Normally the first thing I do when I buy something, is take it apart...this I decided to go a little so on...Now I'm thinking it might not be a bad idea...?
Thanks

 

[bazzly]

I actually had it idling just now...cool. However just from the idling the temp on the remote went above 220..could this be correct. (and it only 68 F out side) I dont have a temp gun so no way to confirm yet.

Also...it starts hard...take a lot to start it. I have to keep the spin starter going for a bit just to keep it going.

I have been testing it out a bit using the post you linked to... I have the body off the truck, but it still over heats. I can get about 3 minutes (about the needed time for the intermittent brake in). So could the over heat be because fuel mix? (Carb settings) I think I am running it rich (Smoke). I also tried (turned counterclockwise) at least “two hours.” if its over heating, but when I try to give it gas to go it just dies.

The other question I have is...should I cut out the windshield of the truck body? As it is...with out the body the Temp is getting up there...

BTW what is BDC

Thanks

 

[olds97_lss]

Usually, for break-in, you don't run a body.

Sounds like you could be a bit lean on the LSN if that's all it took to get up to 230.

Personally, I don't let mine sit and idle when breaking in, I gently accelerate from stopped to WOT, then decelerate similarly. At break-in settings, WOT doesn't do a whole lot since it's so rich and the piston hasn't seated yet. I adjust the needles to where it's rich, but not overly so. Rarely do I hit 200F within the first tank of fuel. Usually around 160-180 by the end of the first/second tank. By tank three, I adjust the carb enough to get the temps on to 200. Then work from there in half tank increments letting it cool down to ambient every half tank.

Just sounds like a typical annoying break-in.

 

[AxialLST]

It is also going to tend to run a little hotter during break in due to the tight piston fit causing a bunch more friction than normal. Until the engine has gone through at least a couple of tanks its still an extremely tight pinch at the top and will cause greater friction, therefore causing more heat. This isn't nessesarily a bad thing, when the engine hits around 220-230 the sleeve has expanded enough to allow a little more clearance. BDC means bottom dead center, and this is where your piston should sit between runs. Olds97 is correct in the break in procedure, this is also the way I break in my nitros, my Axial .28 is about 1.5 gallons in and it still feels like I am going to break the pull start trying to start it when its cold.

Anyway stick with it, break ins are a pain, but have patience, the break in determines how the engine will run, tune, and how long it will last.

-AxialLST

 

[bazzly]

Well at the rate I'm going...I'll need a new engine sooner than latter.

When it starts to over heat I kill it right away...let it cool for 10 or 15 minutes, and try again. So far I have gone through 1 tank.

So how do I know when the low is tuned just right? I know that effects idle, and I just got it so it starts without any problem. Its easy now.

When I go to give it the gas I get a good amount of smoke, and its a bit sluggish. I know the symptoms (quick overheat) seem to point to it being lean...but I think I'm running rich. When I try to make it a bit more rich..it just dies. Any ideas? (I'm probably doing it wrong)

Well I guess the first engine is the learning experience. An expensive one....

Noob questions...
How do I tell if it is bottom dead center?
Also what is WOT

 

[olds97_lss]

WOT - full throttle (wide open throttle)

For BDC, take out your glowplug and turn the flywheel until you see the piston go to the bottom. When it starts coming back up, then your at bottom dead center (BDC).

I'd check for air leaks. Check your fuel lines, fuel filter, that your carb is on the engine tight and that your cooling head is on tight and even. I've gotten a few engines with loose carbs and loose screws... usually a good idea to tear them down and put them back together before ever firing them up. Also is a good time to seal all the areas prone to leaking with RTV to avoid that being an issue in the future (carb neck, backplate, HSN banjo fitting).

Honestly though, 220 isn't that high. Kind of high for a first tank, but your not in serious danger yet. Do a spit test. Once it gets up to temp according to your remote, put a drop of water (spit) on the head and see what it does. If it sizzles off, then your hot. If it takes a little bit to evaporate, then your around 200.

 

[NitroRC4Life]

Another easy way to check BDC really quick...is when your getting a new motor or a new truck take off the exhaust. Then turn the crankshaft till you see the piston at the bottom....then make a mark on the flywheel so you know where to have to flywheel when the truck is all together....JMO though.....

 

[AxialLST]

The easiest way I have found to tune my low speed needle is to let the engine get up to running temp, then while it is at idle pinch the fule line about an inch up from the carb. If it dies instantly its too lean, if it takes longer than 5 seconds to die its too rich. This meathod has never failed for me. On your high speed needle, put the truck on a stand (wheels off the ground) adjust it to where the engine (at operating temp) will go from idle to full throttle smoothly while slowly pulling back on the trigger, maybe 2 seconds for the entire trigger pull. Start it rich, then lean it until it will do this. This way the truck will run, but you know your not too lean. If when you put it back on the ground it wont accelerate smoothly, lean it an 1/8th of a turn until it will. After doing a couple mid throttle passes do the water test, and I only worry about it if the water almost explodes off the head, if it just boils instantly but take a few seconds to boil off its probobly fine. Keep in mind, never tune your engine unless it is at running temp, the entire tune will change from cool to hot.

-AxialLST

 

[bazzly]

"The easiest way I have found to tune my low speed needle is to let the engine get up to running temp"

So would I try to adjust it at around 200? Even at idol mine will overheat. So when its at or around that temp, should I try to start adjusting?

"while it is at idle pinch the fule line about an inch up from the carb. If it dies instantly its too lean, if it takes longer than 5 seconds to die its too rich."

Now thats GOOD to know.
When I pinch the fuel line it takes.. I would say about 8-10 seconds...the engine does not rev up like it should. Possibly because its to rich?

"On your high speed needle, put the truck on a stand (wheels off the ground) adjust it to where the engine (at operating temp) will go from idle to full throttle smoothly while slowly pulling back on the trigger"

Might be a dumb question here....So the wheels will be spinning...? I keep reading never do that....dont know why as of yet...

"Keep in mind, never tune your engine unless it is at running temp, the entire tune will change from cool to hot."

Didnt know that! Thank you very much...I'm gonna give this a go!

 

[AxialLST]

"So would I try to adjust it at around 200? Even at idol mine will overheat. So when its at or around that temp, should I try to start adjusting?"

What temp is it getting to? If it gets around 230-260 thats fine, a lot of things can effect the temp your engine runs at so as long as its in that range your fine. But to answer your question, yes when its around 200 or so start adjusting.

"Now thats GOOD to know.
When I pinch the fuel line it takes.. I would say about 8-10 seconds...the engine does not rev up like it should. Possibly because its to rich?"

This is a sign that it is too rich, try turning in the low speed needle about an eighth of an inch and try again.

"Might be a dumb question here....So the wheels will be spinning...? I keep reading never do that....dont know why as of yet..."

No dumb questions here, yes the wheels will spin, but it wont be for long, as soon as your done with the entire trigger pull, let off as your only testing acceleration.

-AxialLST

 

[bazzly]

So I think I have the high set correctly per your post. However I can not get the low set very well. Should I be playing with the idle at all?
When I pinch the gas I can get it so it just dies, or reeves very high. can't get it to go just a little... Any ideas?

Thanks

BTW I called Losi and they told me the engine should be set to 2 1/2 on both high and low. And the idle should have a thumb nail gap if I remove the air filter and look down.

I must be close....just can not get the low and idle to work correctly.

 

[AxialLST]

You are close with the LSN, it will rev higher because its running out of fuel. How much time between pinch and engine dieing? Also your idle should be set to where it idles smooth, and the truck wont roll. If the truck is trying to move when at idle its set too high, if it wont idle consistantly its too low. This is where you have to find the happy medium, I normally set it wher the truck barely moves on concrete, then dial it back a hair.

-AxialLST

 

[bazzly]

It takes about 3 seconds from pinch to kill the engine.
The other thing I notice, is my primer is not very good, and I think it keeps losing prime.
Could it be losing prime or getting air in the line because there is not enough wd40 on the air filter cover?

Could this be my problem?

 

[neobart]

The primer really doesn't work. I'd stop using it all together.

I prime my engines by taking of the pressure line on the pipe, and blow in it till I see fuel going in to the carb.

 

[AxialLST]

3 seconds on the pinch is perfect. Next test now that you mention the primer...

Pull the fuel tube off the carb and plug it.
Pull the tube off the muffler and blow into it.
If you are able to consistantly blow with no pressure being built up in the tank, this means you have an air leak and your tank isnt building any pressure. You basically should be able to blow as hard as you can and the only thing that should give would be the fuel filler door. If it turns out you have a leak, remove the tank and all assoiciated lines as an assymbly, the repeat the process, while holding the tank under water, viola you have your leak.

All the air filter cover does is provide a prefilter so you dont have to replace your airfilter as much. The WD-40 on the filter only makes it easyer to catch small dust, and will have no bearing on the engine priming.

All you really need the primer for is to initially get fuel to the carb, most people just seal that button and blow into the tube that goes into the exhaust pipe. Once initially primed, the engine compression forces air into that tube, into the tank, and forces the fuel ino the carb. If once the engine is running you see excessive air bubble in the fuel line then I would be checking for a leak, unfortunately a lot of this stuff is pretty common with nitro rc cars, but believe me its all worth it once you figure it all out.

-AxialLST

 

[bazzly]

I will have to try this on Thursday and post back then. I can't wait to get this thing up and running correctly!
Once again...thank you for all your help!!
I'll be back Thursday, and let you know what I find.

 

[AxialLST]

Not a problem, you will get to know the truck and its really not all that hard. I don't even own a temp gun, I just tune it to where it accelerates smoothly without bogging and go. If your not racing there is no real need to take the engine to the brink of destruction to get the most power, all it does is shorten engine life and make you stir crazy wondering if your engine is overheating. Look at it this way, my dad has been flying airplanes/helicopters for 20 years or so, and he has never used a temp gun, just tunes them the same way I do, and he has some planes that have had 15+ gallons run through them and they still run like new.

-AxialLST

 

[bazzly]

I'm not trying to get every bit of power out of it...I just want it to run with out overheating. So what is the max temp I would want to kill the engine at?
As it is...I think I can get about 5 minutes out of it before it hits 248 or so before the remote stars beeping at me. Well the remote starts beeping at 235.

I want this thing to run so bad so my son and I can play with it. 3 to 5 minutes at a pop is more of a pain than fun.

Should I be able to run a full tank with out having to kill it every 5 minutes?