Hear me out… RBC10…

[BarnFabRC]

It works! Mostly…. I’ve been reviving my RB10 to run some outdoor with and push myself to run 2wd. I’ve never liked the stock body on it and it may or may not be a less than insignificant part of why I back burnered it. I had been trimming this body for my 40th anniversary RC10 but I botched it so it was destined to be a beater body. It was sitting on the table while I was working on the RB10 and I got the idea. I started nipping away at it until I could get it seated. It’s a half decent fit but only half you’ll see further down.

There’s a few issues though. It’s super tight in the front as you can see in the picture below. it could probably be held in by some Velcro but it’s pretty much guarantied that the paint will rub off in spots.

The other thing that is an issue and is mostly caused by the tight nose is, I had to push the whole body forward about 1/2”; that caused the stock body/wing mounts to land in a spot that’s sorta rounded and it makes it almost impossible to get the body clips in. I could probably figure a way to mount some wing tubes and use a wing mount like the OG RC10 then the clips would go in pretty easy but it also screws up where the slipper lands.

If I can safely soften the body in the front with a heat gun or something I might be able to re-form it some by hand to alleviate the forward shift. I just don’t have my heat gun here at the house. might try to grab it this weekend from my shop.

What do you all think? Am I barking up the wrong tree here?

 

[WickedFog]

I have never tried reforming a body. Would a hair dryer on high get it to relieve itself a bit so you can slide it back?

 

[BarnFabRC]

I have never tried reforming a body. Would a hair dryer on high get it to relieve itself a bit so you can slide it back?

I don’t know if a hairdryer will get it hot enough, fast enough to not make the whole thing soft. Kinda like soldering. Get it hot quick and get out. We had a vacuum forming machine at my last shop and it really got pretty hot. I’ll have to do a little searching to find the appropriate temp range.

 

[WickedFog]

I don’t know if a hairdryer will get it hot enough, fast enough to not make the whole thing soft. Kinda like soldering. Get it hot quick and get out. We had a vacuum forming machine at my last shop and it really got pretty hot. I’ll have to do a little searching to find the appropriate temp range.

@johnnydmd makes bodies. He can probably give you some pointers.

 

[CertifiedMike]

The body looks nasty all slung down low like that! Very cool!

 

[tntpoof]

a hair dryer High not needed. a microwaved damp cloth...just not a butane lighter

 

[BarnFabRC]

The body looks nasty all slung down low like that! Very cool!

Yea I love it. I actually sent a few of these pics to JConcepts thru Facebook and someone wrote me back saying they liked the idea.

a hair dryer High not needed. a microwaved damp cloth...just not a butane lighter

I looked it up.

I think the heat gun is the way to go. I can dial in the temperature to like 325° with the thermostat it has. I’ll make some sort of buck to form it over I think.

 

[CertifiedMike]

Maybe we'll see a "Barn Find" RB10 body from them soon?! Cool!!!

 

[BarnFabRC]

Maybe we'll see a "Barn Find" RB10 body from them soon?! Cool!!!

 

[Lumikko]

I used a gas-operated soldering iron / heat gun to get localized heat to fit a body on my RB10. The body I used is a Penguin B4 Repo body but the idea is the same.

In my case, it was also the front that required the most modification. I think the RB10 chassis length is comparable to what the +8 mm chassis was on the B4 series.

I used masking tape to pull the body against the chassis, and then gave just enough heat on the spots where I noticed the chassis was pushing the body outward. Once it cooled, the body had settled to the new shape.

 

[BarnFabRC]

I used a gas-operated soldering iron / heat gun to get localized heat to fit a body on my RB10. The body I used is a Penguin B4 Repo body but the idea is the same.

In my case, it was also the front that required the most modification. I think the RB10 chassis length is comparable to what the +8 mm chassis was on the B4 series.

I used masking tape to pull the body against the chassis, and then gave just enough heat on the spots where I noticed the chassis was pushing the body outward. Once it cooled, the body had settled to the new shape.

I got a similar tip from one of the guys at RC10talk. If I get to my shop this weekend I’ll grab my nice heat gun and give it a shot. If I didn’t need to shift it forward the whole rear half lined up perfectly.