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Hammer s18

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kingclinton

kingclinton

RC Newbie
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Durban South Africa
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Hi Guys,

Brand new here and have a few questions regarding a second hand hammer s18 I purchased

First off the condition of vehicle.
The front drive shafts are missing so it only has the rear wheels working. The car has not run in over a year!

So now the questions.
(1) when the car changes into second gear it stalls. Why?
(2) If I brake too hard it stalls. Why?

Sorry if you have heard this all before but any help would be great.

If I use the car where it does not need to change to second it seems fine.
We changedd the glow plug right from the start and got the motor running. after a short 'warm up' period 30 secs or so it goes well.

Thanks in advance.
Pls remember I know zero about these cars! Complete newbie!

Cheers
 
Well for starters Engine is out of tune if it stall's common term is called "LOADING-UP"

You should install the front drive shaft's... The car is an ALL-Wheel-Drive Car so you should install the Front Drive Shaft's... This will greatly help in the car's performance

The engine could be stalling too because the Front Wheel Drive is not intact could be another factor....

2nd Gear is designed to kick in @ different RPM's & differs from car to car so you will have to "play around" for example some car's might Hit 2nd @ 1/4 throttle some car's might Hit 2nd @ half throttle.. & it also depends on the engine's tune 1 racer might want his car to Hit 2nd @ half throttle & another racer might want his car to Hit 2nd @ 1/4 -1/3 throttle so each person will set there tune in accordance with how they want there Transmissions to shift.....

Braking.. That goes with a well tuned engine too or I suggest checking the break shoes they might be to close to break rotor & you might have to "Free the break up a bit"
 
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Hi and thanks for the reply! Again as a begginer I have no idea how to tune anything(except maybe my hi-fi to the local radio station). the front drive shafts were missing apon purchase(did not see that then). Have fiddled so much with settings its not funny anymore, to the point that the car will now not even change gear, at least it wont stall! LOL. Aargh! Grrrrr! cursing big time!
 
For the shifting its more than likely your tune. They're is a sticky at the top of the page in this section, great thing to Read for a beginner. As for the stalling while braking, that's probably your idle gap that's explained in sticky I mentioned as well.
 
Can anyone tell me if you can put oil into the shocks or should they be replaced? I have hydraulic oil if need be.
Also the car rolled over and a little later in the day the steering servo starts clicking alot in one direction and does not sound to good! And we cannot steer anymore. Is it broken and needs replacing or is it something else.
I know lots of questions, big cars and engines are my game, but not this little guy so the learning curve is steep!

Cheers
 
The shocks have a silicone based oil in them. You can get different rates depending on your set up. For instance on a tmaxx with stock 8 shock set you would use a 25-30 wt oil. With a big bore 4 shock set i run 50wt oil for more dampening. You can find the oils on ebay for 3-5 bucks for a 2 oz bottle. You can also get rebuild kits for shocks including new shafts an seals if yours are leaking. Worse case i have used a 20wt 3 in 1 oil to refill stock tmaxx shocks and it worked fine. As far as the servo goes, yes replace it with a good brand high torque servo. My favorite is SAVOX SC0251mg. Or FUTABA S3305mg. These are very affordable metal geared servos. Check www.towerhobbies.com or www.amainhobbies.com for decent under $40 prices on these servos. If you have the money to spend you can get a SAVOX SC1256tg or HITECH HS7955tg. Which are titanium geared and built to be repaired if damaged. But they are a bit pricey for your average basher. Ebay is your friend but be careful on certain servos. I have seen knock offs being sold for savox. Hope this info helps.
 
Yes thanks for your feedback! That was very helpful. Will have to purchase a servo and have a go at filling the shocks to see if they are leaking. Thanks mate.

Cheers
 
When you fill the shocks be sure to move shaft slowly up and down before tightening cap down to remove any air bubbles. Dont over fill either. If you can't push shaft all the way up when done without heavy resistance they are too full. Remember the oil is for dampening and rebound is from springs. You change the spring rate by either adding spacers to tighten rate or adjusting the thread collar on threaded bodied shocks. If they are leaking you will notice wet areas from oil on shafts around bottom of shock bodies. Good luck with your repairs and/or upgrades and have fun. Thats what its all about.
 

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