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GS Storm Buggy Thread

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thanks for the info, sounds right. I've only been scared away by the user reviews on a site that was selling them (it might have been trinity i forget) and people were saying engine life was ridiculous and things were wearing out fast. I swear I was told that AAC should be kept under 180 though... maybe they were wrong or something.

anyway keep us updated on how its holding up once you've put 5g or more through it. :)

Originally posted by humboldtblazer
you supposedly are going to get 3-5 gallons out of the AAC race engine as opposed to the supposed 2-3 gallons out of an ABC

I've done about 4 gallons on my V01B, and it still has fairly decent compression, and runs great. I have seen guys that have taken care of their V01's going 15-20 gallons before needing a rebuild. I try to be nice to mine, but I'm usually hot and revving out most of the time, but i'd still expect at least 5-6 gals before she dies.

RB's are usually even better. Most long-time WS7 owners I know get at least 10 gallons or even more on their engines, and C4/5's seem to go for around the same before needing a rebuild.

So 2-3 has got to be an understatement. That would be a figure more appropriate for a well used ABN I reckon.

oh and about people working in a mess, that is so me. I can work better and its a lot easier when everythine is neat and clean, but that is usually not the case... lol. my rc area usually looks like this happened:
:puke:
 
Originally posted by uDi_MP7.5

I've done about 4 gallons on my V01B

O.S. engines are noturious for longevity.


So 2-3 has got to be an understatement. That would be a figure more appropriate for a well used ABN I reckon.

Ok this is all relative and definetley subject to opinion and conditions. There are so many variables to engine life that it will always be debateable. I find myself having to over explain my statements to you. If I say the norm is 2-3 gallons I am talking racing not weekend bashing/practicing whathave you. If you talk to any 1/8 racer (and their opinions differ greatly) he will tell you he will not run on a piston and sleeve for more than 2-3 gallons without feeling like he is suffering in performance. While for me and you that is just when the engine is being broken in right? I think an engine if properly cared for is half done at 2-3 gallons. Yes you will always have the guy that took impecable care of his engine and sacraficed a little (I'm not saying much here) performance for longevity and got 10 gallons or better. There is always a trade off. I really like exhcanging ideas with you but I hate to try and match wits or whatever you are trying to do by calling me wrong on my claims. Just take them as my claims.
 
Can any of you give me some good links to look for hop-ups fro my storm and can anyone reccomend a good air filter.I've heard that motorsaver is quite good??

:redbuggy:
 
Thanx by the way I started a new thread dedicated to pics of peoples Storms and the hop-ups they use please check it out!!
 
sorry about that humboldt, and fair enough. :x

on the airfilter thing, if anyones going to use the Kyosho - make sure you take great care of the foam - if you use anything harsh to clean it, or oil it - the foam will swell up, its pretty sensitive. Stick to Kyosho oil or something specifically designed for RC foam filters. Good idea to use the optional (?) slide-on second stage foam for it.

I'm running an OS Super air cleaner (201) right now, and it works great. Very big filter, which is always good, but still fits under the body. And the foam isn't all sensitive like the Kyosho, so you can use whatever you want on it.

i've heard good things about the RB/Mugen too.

Typical motorsaver filters are probably kind of small for a buggy, unless you go for the (new) large buggy filters with the elbow.
 
Ok I am a serious newbie and I have a problem I was messing around today trying to take out the radio tray to clean my storm.Halfway through I decided I was going to get myself into trouble so I put everything back like it was or so I thought but my brakes now seem a bit off and I have no idea how to get them right again!!:confused:
 
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All you have to do is adjust the brake linkage slightly. I'll try to see if I have a pic of my roommates storm that shows the brake assembly.
 
That would be great becuz I was messing around with the hex screw too so I hope I can fix it.:n00bie:
 
I would if I could but I don't have a digital camera I really appreciate your help though.Maybe I should just take it to my LHS.:alarm:
 
Hey all, i posted this on my own thread buy thought it couldnt hurt to add it to the exsisting thread as well...

I just bought my GS Storm RTR about a week ago and have a couple of problems/questions. First off, I keep hereing about oil weights and things, whats that for? Is it for the shocks or the diffs or what. Second, The factory tuning was incredibly rich so I've been slowly leaning it out at about a 1/8-1/4 turn every 5 minutes or so of run time. The low end power was increasing as i did it, but whenever i tried to accelerate beyond maybe half throttle, the engine bogged down and rapidly decellerated. I have almost 6 tanks through the car already and i want to start running it harder. At first i figured that just by leaning it out slowly the problem would rectify itself. That leads me into my 3rd problem. I was continuing leaning out the motor and this time when i did it, i tried to accelerate like i usually do, but the motor just refused to push out more power and cut. I tried again this time easing into it better and this time it ran for about 30 seconds then just randomly cut. Anyone had this problem before? Any help would be awesome.
 
only 6 tanks??? and you are leaning it out that much already?? What is the temp like? You are still in the break in stage, do like 4 more tanks at a rich setting and then you will notice big differences in your performance.

L8r,
Garrett
 
Originally posted by RiceLaxer06
I thought since it was rtr that it was broken in for me already???


awww poop. are u serious? If you are, then this is your major problem.

The engine needs to be broken in properly, or it will be permanently damaged. Please click on the Newbie Thread in the General nitro section, and scroll down to the break in proceedures. this is what you should have done.
 
damn, looks like a lot of work for me, should i just reset the HSN to factory be4 running it?

Also, do u think that any permanent damage will result if in fact it was never broken in?
 
yes - this will cause permenant damage. it will cause the piston and sleeve to not mate properly, which will cause the engine to run hot, and fluctuate in its needle settings. eventually, it wont start at all.

its a lil too late to do now, if u already have 6 tanks through it, but i wouldnt expect the engine to last much longer.

not properly breaking in the engine is most likely the cause of the problems u are having now.
 
the guy at my lhs said that i didnt have to break in the engine, and everything i read said that all i needed to do is add gas and batterys and go. I guess i made a big mistake and was mislead by all these ads

One thing i want to add, if i havent really been running at high rpms much, will that affect my engine's life chances. Cause mostly I've been running in my backyard and just doing circles and stuff cause i thought i just had to tune it.
 
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