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GS Storm Buggy Thread

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What sirio have you got in your storm??

I want to do some serious hop-ups on my storm but I think the 1st thing I need to get is a failsafe I've heard that the venom failsafe is quite good.

I don't want my storm running away on me!!:nope:
 
This is PAVEMENT not dirt I am talking about.

I have the .21 7 port AAC off-road engine.

535Sirio21.jpg
 
yeah I've heard the sirio flies, but err i think 55-60 is being a little too optimistic. I'm on an OS V01B and id guess 45, most likely less. And I know that speedguns ALWAYS give you a lower number than you guess :bored:

btw what do you think of the sirio... that and the C5 cost/perform similarly but I've heard a few bad things about the aac's so I'm leaning towards the RB... how much gals you got through there so far?
and I've heard you need to break them in slowly over a gallon or something... is that what you did or did you just do it normally.. also heard u gotta keep em under 175 and they perform their best there, unlike abc's which should be under 260 or whatever. What do you reckon?

just curious, coz different people say different stuff about aac so i dont know what to believe.
thx

-uDi
 
That is one sweet engine you've got there I know sirio make very good engines how much did it set you back if you don't mind me asking??
 
I run the Sirio about 220-250 and have run it a little lean at 270 without problems (was for 3-4 laps max). I have about 1.5-2 gallons through it. All Sirio's from my experience and what I have heard (I own 2) is that they come alive after a gallon and this is true on both the engines I have. Don't get me wrong that first gallon they got power, but after a gallon it's insane. I am still running the restrictor and a crappy pipe and they engine is an animal. I will go buy a speed gun to test it at the bash and I will have witnesses as to how fast it goes. I beat a 2 speed NTC3 with the .15 outlaw Sirio engine by far and I would guess that thing tops out at 55-60 so dunno on the top speed thing but I thing 45 is WAY slow......... maybe on dirt.

I got the engine for like $270 I think.

and AAC is supposedly better or tougher (takes more wear) than ABC.

you supposedly are going to get 3-5 gallons out of the AAC race engine as opposed to the supposed 2-3 gallons out of an ABC

also AAC is substantially lighter than ABC almost an ounce

this is what I found here http://www.jettengineering.com/faq.html

Question:
Is an AAC engine more likely to wear than an ABC engine?
Answer:
Eight years ago I would have probably said yes. That is the conventional wisdom. In fact, I read not long ago in a racing forum a comment by a prominent racer stating just that. The opposite is true. That is why I make my premium engines with AAC liners. Do you remember how nice it was to just change out a piston ring every so often? Well, using an AAC engines is very much the same. We get engines that look like they have been through the Great War, and when torn down and measured, we find the AAC liner is like new. In most cases, all we have to do is fit you a new piston and you are right back to "good as new". It saves you about 1/2 the cost of rebuilding.

The secret of AAC lies in the increased heat stability of the aluminum vs. the brass. With chrome on the liner you do not get wear in either case. What you get is warping of the top part of the brass liner due to heat and stress. The brass, when overheated, tends to "bell mouth" and loose its taper. The aluminum does not do that. About the only thing that will hurt the AAC liners is FOD (foreign object damage). Keep your engine and runway clean!
 
Are any of you guys running a failsafe in your cars and which failsafe would you recomend?:redbuggy:

Could anyone reccomend a good hop-up site for the Storm I've been looking everywhere and I not finding a whole lot!!
 
I use the Dynamite failsafe. It works goob but is hard to fit into the Storm's radio box with the stock reciever. Get the R200 reciever or just get a smaller Venom failsafe. I never have used the Venom but I know a lot of people really like them.
 
well the Maxium performance and tuffness are kinda 2 different things. Some stuff goes hand in hand though. Which is more important to you first speed or tuffness?
 
Shock towers are soft on the RTR in my opinion. I would suggest 7075 aluminum ones. I use the rear Ti one by HCR because I used to tank my buggy som much when I was learning to fly that I snapped a 7075 rear shock tower clean in half. Next I would want to address the chassis if you have the money. A stiffer chassis is a sweet thing. Next chassis braces come into play in my mind for added rigidity. After you do that I would focus on the performace side. This gets very debateable any many people feel really strongly about their opinions on this so take this as just my opinion. get the Universal axels all the way around as you only have them up front right now. This gives more power, better traction, and you dont get the binding of the suspension that can happen from dogbones. Second get a decent pipe as the Stock one blows goats. My first suggestion is the Dynamite dual chamber pipe for $25 bucks. It works really well with the stock sport engine and I had a noticlable increase in performance and a decrease in noise. Also ball bearing steering and ball bearing brakes will help more than you think in the handeling of your buggy. That should be enough to start with right? Let me know when you are ready for more.

Before all hop-ups I would get:
A fuel filter. (yes there is a stone one in the tank but 2 is really a good idea)
A failsafe (your already on that one.
Ditch the AA's, either wire your switch to work or get a 3 wire on/off switch (JR makes one) and use a 5 cell hum 1100mah or higher.

Things to do when you first open the box:

Take the diffs apart and fill with diff oil
Re Loctite everything
 
here you go:
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/gsracing/stormprobuild/index/stormproindex.html

Step 1: http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/gsracing/stormprobuild/step1/step1.html

Step 2:
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/gsracing/stormprobuild/step2/step2.html

Step 3:
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/gsracing/stormprobuild/step3/step3.html

That site is one of if not the best/most informitive buggy site out there. You would do yourself good to check it out in your spare time. Happy wrecnching. And not to worry when you are done you will say that was easy. Just get the right tools and a clean workspace and don't rush.
 
Thanx my only problem is I live in a small bachelor flat so I don't have a whole lot of workspace.:dumb:
 
doesn't take much just make sure it's clean and well organized. That's how I work best, some people work better in a mess, it's all personal preference.
 
Ok but I am afraid if I disconect the servos that I will have one hell of a time getting them just right again.
 
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