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GS Storm Buggy Thread

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DarthRacer

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This thread is for GS Storm owners and wanna-be owners.
I'd like to share setup tips, hop-up info, etc.

I'm getting the only remaining Storm ARR in existance from my LHS! I will have it next week. I'm putting in an Ofna Hyper .21 8-port turbo. :jet:

I know I asked in another thread, but I'd like to know about what you all think about the first hop-ups.
I'd like to get the front / rear chassis braces and the hinge pin braces. Next will be a different pipe. I've been hearing about a dual-chamber pipe by Duratrax. Do any of you have info on it?

:redbuggy: :buggy1:
 
A Front upper arm mount holder is good to reduce play in the front arms. I Recen't got ball baering stering with 7075 alum. steering plate and I love it.
 
I have upgraded the front/rear shock towers to Titanium. I kept bending the aluminum ones on flipovers. Have a Titanium front brace also. Just broke in a new RB Concepts engine. It's early but it looks promising. I originally replaced the stock GS pipe with a dynamite duel chamber one. The dual chamber is a decent pipe but I have gone back to the stock GS pipe with the new RB engine. Man that thing is loud ! Have long since worn out the stock tires and have three sets standing by for whatever the track conditions. Have a set of Panther step pins, a set of proline blue x pins, and a set of proline knuckles (niec tire). Future plans include upgraded stiffeners, MIP CVD's, better shocks (possible mugen and dual rate springs - GS make some nice ones), and the Titanium chassis ($165, going to have to save for that one). Probably should bump up the servos someday too. Most of this is all nice to have stuff as the buggy itself is great right out of the box. Between GS Racing and Hardcore Engineering, you can upgrade quite a bit.
 
i have yet to get this upgrade - but its on my list. Got this chassis for my RC10GT - and it really made a difference!
silver.jpg


Other than that - i got the pro kit, so it pretty much had all the upgrades already.
 
I haven't seen the Ti chassis for the Storm in any color except that dark gray color. If they make it, I will take a blue coated but scratched all to heck color. That way it will look broken-in already.
I think we try and keep it scratch free as long as possible, (which is about 1 minute), but once those first scrathes appear, it's on !!
 
Originally posted by militarymaxx
If they make it, I will take a blue coated but scratched all to heck color.

Here u go - up to you for the scratched though:

blue.jpg
 
Is anyone using parts by Dynamite? I just seen a bunch of them on horizonhobby.com yesterday.

How about the diffs?
What are you using in the front / center / rear?
I've heard to use 7 / 5 / 1 as a start, but why would you use a heavier weight up front and a lighter weight in the rear?
 
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Research the posts, you will find many threads that talk about diff oil weights and as with many topics, there will be different opinions on what people run. To answer why the front diff oil is heavier than the rear, it has to do with bite off the corner, as this is how it was explained to me. When you are coming around or off a turn, if your rear end had more bite than the front you might go into spin. I understand it to be like front wheel drive, if you follow me. More bite from the front would ensure a more even straight launch off of the corner. As far as Dynamite stuff - I feel they make middle of the road items. Not high end, but not duratrash quality either. Sorry Duracrack, too many bad experiences with my sons evader.
 
Originally posted by militarymaxx
Research the posts, you will find many threads that talk about diff oil weights and as with many topics, there will be different opinions on what people run. To answer why the front diff oil is heavier than the rear, it has to do with bite off the corner, as this is how it was explained to me. When you are coming around or off a turn, if your rear end had more bite than the front you might go into spin. I understand it to be like front wheel drive, if you follow me. More bite from the front would ensure a more even straight launch off of the corner. As far as Dynamite stuff - I feel they make middle of the road items. Not high end, but not duratrash quality either. Sorry Duracrack, too many bad experiences with my sons evader.


Good explanation. I understand fully.

Does anyone think that 5000 / 5000/ 1000 will work OK??
Guess I could try and see eh??
 
Guess I could try and see eh??

Yup, looks like you answered your own question.
So many things about this hobby are trial and error.
I propably should keep notes on all the different things I've
tried and failed at or succeeded at.
 
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About the rear hinge pin mounts...

Should I really worry about ripping those holes out in the rear of the chassis? I've seen hinge pin braces/holders on ebay to try and keep the pins together. Does anyone use them??
 
So I don't need to worry about the hinge pin braces???

Oh, and what kind of all-around tires do you all like??
 
I have never seen a chassis hole rip out on a Storm Pro or RTR. I have jumped my buggy over my garage, countless WOT jumps over fences, hills, and anything else my jackass can find to jump. I am not saying I was always great at landing like I am now so I tanked the buggies SO many times, sometimes doing like 30 flips before it stopped end over end. So my answer is no you will not need an extra brace. Just make sure you do good maintiance on your ride. Make sure screws are tight after every hour of running. I could see a lose screw being the cause of a chassis hole rip but that's even a big maybe. I have a stock chassis spare so if you manage to rip a hole out from jumping then poop I'll send you my extra as that is how cofindent I am that the post about ripping the chassis is BS. Now
I wont cover it if you get ran over by a car or something.
 
Thanks for the vote of chassis confidence HB. I was worried I was gonna break it. I do good maintenace and do check screws between every other run, maybe more often if the surface is bumpy.

I'm getting my Storm tomorrow!!! Lookout! :w00t:
 
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